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The painful bolt on the rear is hard to access. The is a steel part with a hole drilled in it. I angle grinded the bottom of this, so that the steel part fits over the bolt. The bolt is never removed, just loosened and tightened. I found it very difficult to get that bolt started before this mod.
My cure was to fit Rivnuts into the bracket and into the shield at the side.
Easy peasy now to R&R.
Regards PhilipA
I rust ridded the scratches on the winch bar, rear steel bar and rock sliders. The painted with satin black paint. I'll think I'll respray asll of these parts, then they will all have the same shade of black.
Flushed the cooling system and used Penrite HOAT Green 7 year coolant 50% mix.
Started it and it's idling away at 79 degrees. Tomorrow I will check all clamps and top up.
Love the V8 growl.
Cheers
Should be using a G30 not a G48 coolant [emoji41]Quote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
I used the same as Andrew, with Penrite's recommendation. I have three pots less than Andrew.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Ditch the heat shield - you wont regret it [emoji1417]Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Mike you are right of course in terms of what Mr Rover says (and as to what Penrite recommends in terms of OEM).I am running HOAT as I'm running a top hose thermostat and it's running much cooler than the silly stock temps - HOAT is a better fit. Probably less likely to nail the water pump and seals and gaskets (less likely to leak). Suits my application.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
I have running the Hybrid coolant now for 50,000 or so and so far no head gasket issues. Bonus.
Cheers
Ps. My bet is that if I rang Penrite they too would say HOAT is a good choice. I have over 300,000 on my original D1 motor the last 200,000 on non OAT coolant. No issues.
Help me understand the difference - seems to me that the hybrid OAT offerings from various suppliers have blurred things a lot....Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Onebob, Tombie might chime in but for me I have found OAT to be less than desirable in older Land Rover motors like the D1 and D2 V8 compared to the old type mainly ethyl glycol coolant _ ie gasket issues and the OAT's leak potential. Then came HOAT which contains mostly the new Organic Acid Tech (OAT) (organic acid salts) but also some of the stuff that the earlier coolant had. Earlier coolant and HOAT have a different way of getting the heat away from the metal. As I understand HOAT has Nitrites that form a layer on the internal surfaces that protects against corrosion and scaling but also against cavitation of the coolant. I like that even though in strict coolant efficiency terms OAT has better heat transfer properties than HOAT. But in a pressurised system with it's high boiling point for a Land Rover running a cooling system that is not based around the silly 3 way thermostat the differences in cooling efficiency are academic .
Cheers
Ps. Hopefully Rick130 will see this and add his expertise to the discussion.
I'm no expert on cooolant but I have no issue running a HOAT.
If you do a full flush prior to use and really flush well it shouldn't be an issue.
I like an acid based cleaner like citric acid prior to using an OAT, it kills any corrosion which maximises the life of your coolant.
Conventional cleaners like Mukowt are strongly alkali and aimed at preparing for old style silicate based coolant, they really move silicate deposits well.
I'm running Cummins/Fleetguard PG Platinum which I thought was a HOAT but on reading the latest product literature it says it's an OAT.
Cummins named it Tec-Infinity on Cummins branded bottles and drums which confuses the hell out of me as it's the same stuff