Printable View
I actually had this last night asap after fitting the tyres. There was a sound of rubbing when I go reverse with hard turn. It would not happen when go forward or with less than hard turn of the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Well, I did quickly found out that there would be nothing rubbing the tyres except the front plastic mud guard covers between the bull bar and the tyres which were loosen enough. So a quick fix with a new screw would remove that issue.
I have installed a better map on the ECU the cat has more grunt. Then I shortened the waste gate rod, max boost is 1.46 Bar, 21.18 psi. Even more grunt. I am guessing that as more air gets into the engine, the throttle input will be decreased to get the same power. This will be good for economy on high way runs. It will also give better economy on suburban driving, after I get back to a soft right foot.
My 03 Manual TD5 one has some funny things with locks since the day I bought it last month (did not know much about the issues until I came home to do more research).
1- Will lock only 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with remote (50%)
2- Will lock only 3 doors (except driver door, and rear right door) with central locking switch.
3- Will lock 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with key (100%).
4- Will unlock 4 doors including back door (except the rear right door) with key (100%).
5- Will NOT unlock driver door and rear right door with remote.
6- Will NOT unlock driver door and rear right door with central locking switch.
Even today the remote would not lock the doors, and even would not let me open the driver door a few times. So I pull the trigger to do the job because locking and opening driver door from the passenger side is not funny anymore.
(Replacing battery in the remote would not help anything)
So far, I replaced the rear right door motor with one used replacement lock from a wrecker => it fixes the issues on that door. It will work unlock and lock as normal with the remote and central locking button.
Next step is to look at the driver door motor and see how it goes. This is when the funny part of the game starts.
Firstly, opening the driver door only to find out that the door motor seems still responses to the signal with UNLOCK only, however, it would not fully unlock the door, nor showing the lock moving.
Secondly, trying the replacement door lock without luck. It shows the same thing that the replacement door lock seems working but would not response with LOCK signal but only a little response with UNLOCK signal.
Bugger, I thought the replacement part was faulty too because it looked extremely dusty both outside and inside.
No other choices, I opened the replacement door lock plastic cover to learn the mechanism of the lock, then I used 1 bottle of degreaser to clean it thoroughly. You should know that 1 big bottle of degreaser is a lot of degreaser for this small lock. Btw, then it looked a lot nicer.
Tried again, no luck and still no response with LOCK but only a little response with UNLOCK.
So far, I tried to clean it again 3rd time with more degreaser, and free all the moving parts as possible. Then I tried to lock it in the fully locked position and plug the power cord. Voila, it worked. Since I did free all the moving parts, now the reward is that it works with both Lock and Unlock from remote, and same with Central locking button. I decided to add some oil (engine oil) to lubricate all moving mechanism and I can hear it moves smoothly then.
Well, to make it short after getting it working as usual (2 steps locking system) and learnt all the mechanism behind the doors on the right side, now I believe some points:
1. The rear door lock might not be dead since it still responds to the signal. The dust likely blocked its movement.
2. The front door lock might not be dead too since it still responds to the signal. The dust likely blocked its movement.
3. It is very possible to add in an aftermarket keyless entry and alarm remote control (in the future if need) with the conditions:
3.1. Deactivate factory remote and immobiliser.
3.2. All the factory door locks MUST stay as original, only add in the aftermarket kit and components on top of each lock in each door to get the keyless remote and lock working.
So if you have a D2 with similar issues as I had, there is a great chance that you could get it works after spend an hour cleaning the lock with degreaser and oil (try to open its plastic cover to clean it better).
A happy day!
May i ask you if could tell a little bit more about your snorkel? Maybe with pictures?
What did you have to cut? How you got enough space for the tube?
Many thanks for this!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaaaiju
Alternatively you could play the usual LR waiting game and the engine will make it black for 'ya, and a bit more rustproof as the bonus! [tonguewink]Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
[emoji15]Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
I don't think I'd be waiting long! [emoji23]
Spent half the day underneath (Tie rod and TRE's, TW driveshaft finally installed and the cross-member dropper installed) and now the auto is hanging between full throttle/max rev changes [bighmmm]
Hopefully it's just fluid in a connector or two after the ATF flood from two weeks ago.
No more work for today as it's been teeming with rain for a few hours now.
Leaky was sounding a bit loud and running rough when i got him back from the sister in-law, sure enough missing another nut and a broken stud on the exhaust. Had to move the air-con compressor, one bolt took half an hour to get out with out breaking it (patience) took a bit of thread with it. Drilled a hole in the stud with the manifold in place, bad idea went off centre. Took the whole manifold off then managed to break the easy-out. Had to drill and re-tap the hole as best i could. Think a de-web and bigger studs is on the list! Re-tapped the compressor holes and ran a die over the bolts. So their went my quiet afternoon i had planned.
Rick, have you passed judgement on these? Looks good!Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
There are some basic imbalances or instabilities in the D2 which are created by the back end and the roof. Keeping in mind, the weight difference from front to rear is about 1.1t to 1.2t, so not a huge amount, but the weight in the rear is in the extremities which is why it is hard to control when setting up the suspension and it makes it prone to twitching. The lower front pressures does a couple of things, it counters the twitch in the rear by inducing what you probably wont feel as twitch in the front, so when you turn in, the twitch from the rear during weight shift also twitches in the front so you get what feels like a more stable result. This is through the carcass of the tyre and will vary depending on the construction and dimensions of the tyre - I'm not going to recommend pressures. The sway control is also really important in the Disco2 for a similar reason in controlling the roll and steer from the geometry changes, lifting will also induce twitch. The D2 is very very doughy without sway control but they respond really well to it. When towing, they also recommend going straight to the highest pressure they recommend, which is also about controlling the lateral movement in the rear - I would imagine 18's are a better tyre for towing on the road, but just up the pressures. The other thing lowering front pressures to 28 does is dull the traction at the front, so if you are trying your best while careening off Mt Tomah like you're Lewis Hamilton, 28psi will ultimately produce understeer which is probably a lot more benign for the general public than having the rear of the car moving around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eevo