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Well! .... as it turns out the fan shroud was the problem! Apparently it should be clipped at the bottom, mine wasn’t, and it was rubbing on the radiator core, and one of the channels ended up getting worn through[emoji37]Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Maybe a few well placed zip ties will prevent a reoccurrence...?
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....... the curved scar on the radiator core was the result of a past fan bearing failure that resulted in just enough free play for the fan to “kiss” the core during the course of a water crossing. Contact was likely on “entry” when the fan blade tips became submerged and “pulled” onto the core.
Could this be soldered? They use solder to join the parts together. The again, a new OEM radiator is what $300.
I don’t know? However the rad is an early spec model and I’m taking the opportunity to upgrade the cooling system with the new spec radiator (see Technical Bulletin 009 - L8711bu) and do the oil cooler return pipe delete. Will also replace the water pump, thermostat, fuel cooler O rings and all associated hoses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
........ and a thank you to Mario and Heather at ROVERLORD OFF-ROAD SPARES for their superlative customer service.
Fitted 50psi fuel hose to my Turbosmart blow off valve and to wastegate as the vacuum tubing split.
got to about 30psi at times.
looked at some old posts for recommendations.
regards PhilipA
In order to remove the picture in my head of a mature gent hooning around Avoca beach with a golf cap on back to front I'm going to assume you meant Turbosmart Manual Boost Controller[biggrin]Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Blow off valve is a different thing
After about four months of having bits of gearbox all over the place my D2 is back on the road. The autobox has been completely done - all new friction material, new oil pump, new seals, new bushes, new HD TC with slightly lower stall speed, new casing (original was cracked) etc.
It's a big job for a home "mechanic" with lots of scope for error so in hindsight I'd pay the extra and send it to an auto specialist.
Anyway the job's done now and it behaves perfectly - locks up on schedule, adaptive pressures all below ten after a "vigorous" test drive and no early evidence of leaks. The only problem is the CAT in the first section gently knocks on the chassis which is bloody annoying just off idle.
The only problem is that during my very first test drive the left indicator came out of the rear bumper and is now lost somewhere on the road... Off to a wreckers for the light fitting and a decat pipe for the exhaust.
Get an original light if possible. I was walking back from the Amenities a couple of nights Ago and my dork torch revealed no reflector in the eBay one I bought some years ago
regards PhilipA
Nice job....well done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Markf
With the exhaust , loosen the 2x 17mm head nuts on the first flange after the cat , then twist the main muffler so it's perfectly straight. This should bring the cat away from the chassis when the nuts are tightened
Hmmm. Sounds like a hot tip to me. I've spent a LOT of time on my back under the car so I guess another 15 minutes or so won't hurt, eh ? Especially if it stops the rattle.Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy