Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by discorevy

That would cost around $120 every 20 000k



mmm, quick calc , coming up for 400 months ago................




Probably easier to justify that an inspection every 20 000k would have saved you $4000 less the cost of the prop shaft and rotoflex, not to mention the hassle of getting it towed if you happened to be remote.

Hindsight is a Wonderful thing isn't it

Originally Posted by trout1105

The part on the front drive shaft that gave way didn't have a grease nipple So it wasn't a servicing issue because there was NO way that it could have been serviced.
Anyway I do all my own services except for the auto service So there is absolutely NO way that Wyatt's can be at fault for this SNAFU.
The front drive shaft failures on the D1 and the D2 is a quite common occurrence simply because of the way it was designed by JLR who in their wisdom decided that there was no need to make the driveshaft greaseable.
The new shaft that I am getting fitted WILL be greaseable because it is designed correctly and NOT by JLR

I'm amazed that you didn't pick up on the warning signs sent out by the failed joint. Unis don't suddenly fail catastrophically.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

I'm amazed that you didn't pick up on the warning signs sent out by the failed joint. Unis don't suddenly fail catastrophically.

99% of the K's I have done in the D2a over the last month have been on corrugated gravel roads, Pretty hard to hear a squeaking or clicking uni over all that noise.
There was NO vibration or anything else untoward happening it just went BANG and blew itself apart on me.
Stuff happens.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

No one makes a hakama look better.

Done 1000km on my ashcroft r380 box and lof clutch and its getting better every time i drive, pedal still feels the same, what oil intervals on the box should i do as i am using motul gear 300

20,000+ easily, you you'll probably have to play it by ear. I'm actually not sure how far you can push it.

It doesn't shear like most MTF's do, e.g. Syntrans.
Syntrans is toast by then.

The car blotted its copybook this morning, been to Barrabra, Narrabri, all over Mt Kaputar and back home and ran like a dream.

MS lights flashing as I backed out of the driveway.
Battery voltage ok even though the Engel is pulling off the cranking battery atm.
Checked the ECU plug, pretty much dry, just looked like old strains but flushed and refitted and all good.
Damn that CAN connection for the auto is sensitive

Stupid electrics!!
And stupid amateur electrician(me!)

all three RHS indicators not working.
Flick switch to right, dash arrow flashes as per normal, relay gives a rapid rattle, then nothing. No RHS lights at all.
LHS all good.
Checked just about everything, fuse box connections all good, etc, etc. Removed indicator stalk thinking maybe weak connection and hence low voltage to the RHS relay.
Nope. Checked nanocom(doh!) no lights, but arrow still on dash on. Starting to think a problem with BCU, or wires to it.

Hotwired the lights with direct 12v to pin 30 at the relay. RHS side repeater comes on, but not front light, nor rear.
DOH! front and rear bulbs no power. Front bulb blown, rear bulb holder dodgy connection.
Fixed them up, RHS indicators working again.

about 3 hours of removing fuse box, steering wheel .. etc, etc.... and all for naught. Must remember to check the easy stuff first.