Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I had a somewhat similar problem today, in my D2a TD5.
I returned home from a drive of about 1.5 hours, stopped engine, got out, went to lock by using key fob - nothing.
No sound of doors locking, no external indicator lights flashing.
Locked car using the key in driver's door.
Key fob would not lock or unlock doors, key would not start vehicle.

Security alarm sounding off just on subsequent opening of a door.

While I had been away from home, there had been a parcel delivery to my house.
Courier had pressed front door-bell (wireless) in a way that left the door-bell button depressed.
This results in periodic sounding off of the door-bell, even though no-one presses the button again.

After pulling stuck door-bell button out, the car remote fob worked perfectly to lock & unlock the vehicle, and the key to start it, with no alarm sounding off.

It seems that the door-bell button sends a signal of the same or at least an interfering frequency to that of the Disco key fob.
With the door-bell button stuck on, communication between the key fob and the car seemed to be blocked.

Do you happen to have a wireless door-bell at your place?

I have never heard of an EKA code with any (let alone all) entries being 3-digit numbers.
This would make for a very lengthy and tedious process to use the EKA code (2-digits are bad enough!).
Are you sure that this is correct?

Cheers, Andrew

Originally Posted by Collins

Locked In.
Have been experiencing some problems with the Security System/Immobiliser in the past 2 days.
Tuesday morning 07/01/2020, key remote would not unlock door. Used key to unlock, openbed door & alarm sounded. Disconnected & reconnected battery to no avail. Disconnected battery & then moved vehicle down drive a few metres, it then started. Thought the problem must have been local radio interference. Parked further down driveway Tuesday evening, however key remote would not lock door. Thought maybe interference again.

Yesterday evening, was heading out to a Wine Bar to enjoy a red & some Jazz in a town nearby. Vehicle initially would not start, eventually all OK. Head off for a night out. Good music, reasonable company, good jazz, however when i unlocked door with key, alarm began sounding. While attempting to silence alarm I managed to superlock myself inside. Rang for assistance & got a few perculiar looks from other patrons leaving the wine bar. Eventually alarm stopped due to reduced battery voltage.

Sometime later, Roadside assist arrived. I popped the bonnet & the mechanic gave the battery a juice up & was then able to open window, pass out key and use it to unlock door. Mechanic arranged for a tow truck to pick up vehicle and drop it & me at home, about 0115 today.

Pit battery on charhe overnight, updated Nanocom Evo with latest upgrades. Around midday, refitted battery, immediate alarm. Locked door using key. alarm stopped.

Read EKA code via Nanocom, all fields identical three digit number. Recoded EKA, single digit number in each of the four fields. Then attempted to use new EKA to reset. Trieds atleast five times, no success.

Nanocom is able to detect RF signal from key remote.Cannot start vehicle.

Is anyone able to offer assistance/advice to get me mobile

Thanks

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

Key fob would not lock or unlock doors, key would not start vehicle.

Do you happen to have a wireless door-bell at your place?

Cheers, Andrew

Yes Andew,, yes I do... car is about 4 meters away...

try ringing the doorbell and see if the car starts

Originally Posted by Eevo

try ringing the doorbell and see if the car starts

Or starting the car to see if the doorbell rings.

Think I'll wait to see if there's any reply from Collins!

Andrew

Originally Posted by onebob

I suspect that my HUNTER Di Speedo Correction Unit installation is clashing with ACE so I re-routed the Road Speed Signal so that an uncorrected RRS is restored to the ACE ECU.
Many thanks to Sierrafery for suggesting the solution in an AUGUST 2014 post - SEARCH is your friend

UPDATE
It has been a week since restoring the original uncorrected Road Speed Signal to the ACE ECU and what a joy it is to have ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) back and fully functional .... and no more puzzled looks from drivers beside me at the lights when the right hand side of the disco randomly rises and then drops.

NB: I have coil suspension, not SLS.

'02 SE7 TD5 15P Auto
G'day all,
I've been learning about my D2 for nearly 12 months, after changing country & leaving a 300Tdi behind. I have visiting rights.
I've struggled to maintain reasonable speed up any incline.
Have also been subsidizing APEC.
I've followed Aulro member sagas on sensors & turbos.
Indie service mech changed out faulty MAF & wastegate modulator. Claimed all others OK.
Nanocom - a new investment - showed minimal boost - MAP reading 0.
MAP out....filthy, tried to clean...Nanocom said no change.
Yesterday new MAP fitted....I have a new car.
Faster off the mark, smoother operation & now climbs hills
Happiness is a TD5 with correct boost

Next step is to remove EGR

Cheers,
Don

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

I had a somewhat similar problem today, in my D2a TD5.
I returned home from a drive of about 1.5 hours, stopped engine, got out, went to lock by using key fob - nothing.
No sound of doors locking, no external indicator lights flashing.
Locked car using the key in driver's door.
Key fob would not lock or unlock doors, key would not start vehicle.

Security alarm sounding off just on subsequent opening of a door.

While I had been away from home, there had been a parcel delivery to my house.
Courier had pressed front door-bell (wireless) in a way that left the door-bell button depressed.
This results in periodic sounding off of the door-bell, even though no-one presses the button again.

After pulling stuck door-bell button out, the car remote fob worked perfectly to lock & unlock the vehicle, and the key to start it, with no alarm sounding off.

It seems that the door-bell button sends a signal of the same or at least an interfering frequency to that of the Disco key fob.
With the door-bell button stuck on, communication between the key fob and the car seemed to be blocked.

Do you happen to have a wireless door-bell at your place?

I have never heard of an EKA code with any (let alone all) entries being 3-digit numbers.
This would make for a very lengthy and tedious process to use the EKA code (2-digits are bad enough!).
Are you sure that this is correct?

Cheers, Andrew

Andrew, thanks for your comments.
Yes, do have 2 wireless functions - Internal/External thermometer & Door Bell. Same units were installed at previous residence & were never a problem. Doorbell not stuck & continuously chiming, however have now disabled both.
New battery in remote, although initial battery OK - 3.16V. No activity when either button depressed. Nanocom is reading remote RF signal. Still unable to start vehicle & not accepting EKA.

EKA Code was definitely 3 digits (identical), Hexadecimal(F-1) in each of the four fields. The ECU fitted currently is not the original & code is possibly a corruption from when it was removed/reinstalled. It has been installed for 3+ years now. Replaced original to attempt to alleviate fluctuating idle RPM. It was suggested that the original ECU may have been damaged by a previously installed LPG fueling system, which had been removed prior to my purchase of the vehicle. EKA Code now changed as mentioned.

Further query. What does the Immobilisation Code apply too?