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My son who is a mobile mechanic encounters this problem frequently. The last one was an ancient Toyota HiAce. His fix is to buy a threaded brass hose barb from any auto parts shop - drill out the hole left in the radiator tank to the size not loose but snug enough that the thread end of hose barb can be made to screw in, the aim is that it will cut a thread as it goes in. Nip it up lightly and seal around with JB Weld for a permanent fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb
The last time this happened to me was 1977 in a Wolseley 4/44. Then the wheel fell off!! This on a dirt track in the Adelaide hills, driving slowly. Mind you, the Wolseley, has been the only car I have driven at 100mph!, down Willunga scarp. It wasn't planned but the brakes faded and that's the speed the car got to in top gear. On cross ply tyres. Hey they might have been retreads! A very very scary drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
I have done it again!
Today stopped in the driveway to unload my bike from the carrier, and noticed an additional pool about 200mm in diameter under the car near the twin Aircon water pools.
Que?
It looked like oil but not diff or transfer case oil by smell.
It was transmission fluid.
So got under and there was the bottom union of the oil cooler pipes and it was only finger tight.
So I tightened it up, and not knowing how much had leaked, I opened the filler bolt with the engine off. BIG Mistake as quite hot oil soon left a pool about 300Mm in diameter.
So I dutifully started the engine and topped up the fluid with Transmax Z.
It only took about 500 Mil so not much was lost so the fluid loss must have just started. Lucky me.
What is it with me and engine fluid unions?
First it was the FPR to front of head union at the fpr end then a year later and about 3 weeks ago the front union to the head ( washer crushed and missing a bit as per photo) now the cooler pipe union.
I must try to protect the rubber washers too much. The top union felt tight and no fluid on the pipe. Took it for a test drive and no more fluid loss.
Jeeeez.
Regards PhilipA
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And why did you fill it whilst still hot?
Best be checking once it’s cooked down a bit (and running)
There are torque specs for a reason [emoji4]
Because my wife wanted me to bring her her golf buggy battery to the golf course which she had forgotten.Quote:
And why did you fill it whilst still hot?
Well good luck with that.Quote:
There are torque specs for a reason [emoji4]
I just rechecked RAVE and there are no torque specs in the torque setting area or in the auto transmission area.
In any case I did tighten both unions over the expected 8NM. I think my problem may be that in both cases the pipes get stuck part way in their sockets even though I usually leave the holding clips loose so that this doesn't happen.
So there.
Regards PhilipA
Trying to imagine what a tool to torque down the fuel return connector would look like!Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
.. nup, I'm just not that imaginative!
That had to be one of the most annoying, and needless design flaws on any vehicle I've yet seen.
When we did the bros car a few years back, I cut the return hose and got rid of that silly pipe end. Fitted one of the quick connect pipes off the old FPR body(new o ring of course)
IIRC, there is one hose fitting on the FPR and one pipe fitting. The Pipe fitting fits into the return end in the head nicely.
Found a super duper long 12mm socket(can't recall, but some obscure cars use 12mm spark plugs according to the bloke at Bursons) .. socket was got, pipe was fitted so easily now.
Hose slid over the quick connect protrusion section of the pipe, two clamps fitted(just in case but I don't think needed) still there a few years later.
Had plans to get a 90° quick connect fitting for the now cut hose end as the bend in the hose is quite wide .. a 90° elbow would be ideal.
Why LR couldn't fit a quick connect pipe that they already have in their parts bins!! ... their incompetence never ceases to amaze sometimes.
One of those unfinished things I should poke the brother about .. thanks for the reminder(s)
It was only 6 months ago the top union let go on my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
And good luck getting a tension wench in there, I was just able to finagle a flare spanner in situ and it was done BFT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Here's one I was going to ask. When replacing the sway bar link that let go and caused my ACE hose issue.
I bought replacement Lemforder parts.
1. How do you torque the lower ball where you can only get a ring spanner on the nut and hold the 'bolt' part with the hex in the end?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/image/png...AASUVORK5CYII=
The top nut is fine at 50Nm - it's the 100Nm on the lower ball. I figured just do it up as tight as i could.
2. Found that the parts I took out had 17mm nuts - the replacement had 18mm and 16mm - never used that size before so had to purchase spanners and sockets as all my sets go 14, 17, 19.
go figure I guess.
You use an open ended torque wrench. [emoji41]
The fuel line isn’t hard to get to either of you have the right tools [emoji106]
