Did you get the beef cake lewis one that needs the flanges ?
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That is about 1 second from coming apart, don't leave it in there and drive on it. I would assume the flogging around has damaged the UJ surfaces and the middle bearing wont be too far from letting go if it isn't already flogged out. Thats wear your squeek will be coming from.
I'd replace that with a Tom Woods 1310 shaft which is durable and long lived and also fully servicable. I think you can buy them from Jeep Konnection or directly from Tom in the US - he is really easy to deal with.
I'v only dealt with Tom in the USA direct, and he has been absolutely first class, above and beyond all of the time. He is just such a nice fellow and I honestly couldnt speak more highly of him. Since he started building the Disco2 fully servicable 1310's I stopped having my normal 12month failures. Rock solid for me.
Thanks I have been weighing up options. - I’ve ordered the three uni’s from Roverlord and getting a Ball Kit #SCV-82B (~$126.64) for the Hookes Joint from HARDY SPICER in Dandenong.
I will rebuild the driveshaft then ponder whether to get a new one and have this as a spare.
Today I replaced the hand brake shoes and replaced the rear output shaft seal on my 2002 TD5 auto.
All went OK .
The seal was rock hard and had an LR part number on it which may or may not mean anything.
That transfer must get hot at times.
I was able to replace the shoes with the backing plate mainly in situ until I had to refit those pesky half turn shoe holders when I loosened off the bolts so I could get my finger in behind the backing plate to hold the spike part of the bottom holders..
It took awhile to work out how to refit the springs and the top handbrake lever /spacer with several failed attempts with springs and spacers running for cover.
My yoke seal surface is pretty worn and if it starts to leak again I will buy a new one.
Regards PhilipA