Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by Tombie

Is the EWP always flowing? Even a little? I sure hope so.

Also, make a frame up to mount that fan, otherwise on corrugations the through bolts will crack the capillaries.

Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

Not long before I sold my D2 I had a new head fitted and renewed basically the entire cooling system.

I considered the process of installing EWP /EF and after fairly exhaustive investigation decided to keep the brilliant cooling system that the td5 was born with.

I think I really saved myself a lot of angst, possibly some skin and definitely some dollars.

I had done the craig davies thing years earlier on an imported 2.7 Nissan Pathfinder which then still had the old bog standard british style cooling system , very simple to deal with and modify , unlike the td5.

Originally Posted by johnp38

2 good Tombie points to act on.

Need some flow to prevent steam pockets and mount fan on simple frame, 2 vertical flat bars will do.

Seems good advice re the frame. Davies Craig advice was to mount the Fan directly ON the radiator but could do an external support without too much problem. Left off the rear locating lugs for the intercooler I just found out, so will fit these and then a support bra! Did use the nylon kit for the fitting by the way

02bc14f29ca10f1ca8f26950bb8457ecd1107a25.png

The operation is as the above diagram shows, it pulses slow at low temp, increasing these as the temp rise to target and then steady flow increasing as the temps increase.

Unlike the first start up where the temps got up to 95C, had this idling for nearly half an hour today and the temp did not rise above the mid 60'sC, am of the opinion now that the flow rate is the predominant control of temp as the amount of time that the EF was on was small in real terms. Even sitting at traffic expecting the temp to rise and basically it didn't and as I noted it was not a cold day being at mid 30'sC with both aircon units on.

The EWP I believe is viable even if not used with an EF, which could even be plumbed to the front fan for use on shut down, the placement it turns is optimum for flow down (lowest point in the coolant system for priming) there above the steering damper and to do it again which I will be on the D2a now I know how to do it and what little is actually involved.

Originally Posted by RRT

Then the drive, did not have the SD card but drove with the two displays and the temps rose to 70 and sat solid, until I thought I had blown a Air Bag, it turns out all I did was blow off the turbo to intercooler pipe

Yeah, found my pressure loss from earlier today.

IMG_20211212_182321.jpg

Can see from the trace on the hose it was bit dodgy of a fit. Only needed a pulling up of the metal tube and it slipped in with more than adequate space to clamp on better.

Little nuggets everywhere from previous owners.

No problem mate , I take my hat off to you , I chickended out.

on the Nissan I installed twin fans and mounted them directly onto the radiator, fans were probably 1-2mm off the actual core and I used special ss bolts 5mm if I recall and large dia washers to spread tension across radiator core. they stayed there several years over South Australia's roughest roads, I just forgot about cooling , it all worked so well. they were wired to suck not blow and had run on timers on engine shutdown.

hope you enjoy yours.

Originally Posted by johnp38

.....

Little nuggets everywhere from previous owners.

Yeah, mine has this issue too. But not the immediate P.O(my brother), one of the POs prior to brother.

Some time back, I noted a lot of silted up mud in all the doors, and had it in mind to check the rear door too one day.
Cleaned out all the passenger doors back then, and today was time to check and clean the rear (cargo) door.

Should have stayed indoors!

What an ordeal. One of the POs had fitted an OK metal panel on the rear door using nutserts, and also fitted a table to that. Was ok, but don't need it.
Nutserts were drilled to 9.5mm holes(maybe imperial size or something), and they used decent quality stainless nuts too.

Would have been OK, if they WORKED .. but all of them have slipped, or cross threaded at some point .. so many snapped bolts not really holding the metal panel.
Metal panel looks to be laser cut too.

Anyhow it was time to remove all nutserts and install my spare rear door card.
But the dried up silted mud made this ever so slightly impossible.
First I scraped as much of the silt as I could .. maybe a couple of kilos of the stuff. About an inch thick in some places. Blocked up to high heaven in others.
I ground off all nutserts, and being high quality stainless impossible to retrieve most of them within the many double skinned panels of the rear door. Magnet was useless.

As I wanted to get as much of the muck cleaned out, I scraped with every bit of material I had laying about, and any tool that would fit.
Finally started blowing compressed air within every nook and cranny for a good hour or two. The cloud of dust was akin to a typical drive through thick bulldust. No point trying not to get it in the car itself, so just blew out the car every now and then once it settled.
Could only do this with good eye protection(which I embarrasingly have to admit I sometimes don't use) .. but this time had too.

Once I felt confident that a lot of the dust had been blown out .. many of the nutserts that fell into those nooks and crannies did eventually blow out too 4 got stuck hard, 3 into the unknown .. one exactly where I pushed it into because it was impossible to get it out.

Then the hour or so with the garden hose set to jet mode ... for at least half an hour .. maybe more.

SO why the ordeal? all that dust and water then mucked up into the door lock mechanism! .. arrgghhh!
Door eventually opened, and lock removed and sprayed an entire tin of carby cleaner to remove muck and built up lube .. then half a can of INOX(need a new one now) to get it working again.
Lots of compressed air too .. and feels good again.
And of course can't find the PTFE spray .. so INOX has to do for now.

Started at 10am, finished at 4pm. I think too dehydrated to try to fit the door card(yet). They drilled the nutsert holes out to larger than 8mm, so the trim clips don't fit. Going to use a dab of silicon to hold them in for the card clips to slot into.

moral of the story, don't use nutserts on double walled panels!!!

One point noted in all this tho. Bro has had the D2 for a good 5 years, and I've had it for a few months. All this silt I'd found in doors and still much of it dried up in corners of the chassis. No rust tho. Must be a very high quality kind of mud.
Only the drivers door had some rust, but not the door itself, just some of the hardware, which has already been removed and replaced with spares.

Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

No problem mate , I take my hat off to you , I chickended out.

on the Nissan I installed twin fans and mounted them directly onto the radiator, fans were probably 1-2mm off the actual core and I used special ss bolts 5mm if I recall and large dia washers to spread tension across radiator core. they stayed there several years over South Australia's roughest roads, I just forgot about cooling , it all worked so well. they were wired to suck not blow and had run on timers on engine shutdown.

hope you enjoy yours.

Hey it was with trepidation I went this path, as with all things LR, read so many forum posts and info especially regarding the EF, think I only found one other who has used the EWP and he was using it as a booster in the States on the V8. There were certainly enough people who have failed with the EF undoubtedly, the thing that I kept coming back to in my mind was that coolant was not just CFM of the fan but also the flow of the coolant and these could both be maxed out at idle against being at the minimal level in mechanical systems and of course running on after shutdown.

Interestingly Darkside Developments who made the manifold, pipes etc and provided the turbo noted to me they use a Peirberg one on their diesel track car, same size as the DC one I have in place 150 lpm

Ibiza FR Mk4 6L 1.9 8v (ASZ) - Track / Race Car

Last Sunday felt defeated and the BIL just wanted to put the waterpump in and fit the VF and then without the advice of Davies Craig, probably would have! It is now in reflection as being amazed how different the results were with the mods of location and removal, again not yet 'forgetting cooling' but once totally validated, hopeful this can be the case.

HOMEZ.CSV

Drove the D2 home tonight, all the front beauty bits back on and well, the CSV file shows that the temps were low, very low. The Nanocom was showing roughly 10C less than the EWP controller and this got to a high of only 82C, so sat remarkably stable with only a few degrees of change all the way home once warm - thinking the fan / airflow goes right over the temp sensor in the head, whilst the EWPC with the sensor just near the top of the radiator does not have this flow going over it and therefore is only recording the actual temp of the fluid.

Without the baselines to go by the max boost was around 20 psi and the cruising boost at 100kph was showing around 14 psi on the gauge and the EGT did show 500C going up hill but sat between 3-400 most of the way.

Having driven this very regularly over the past few months, Croydon to Travancore there are a few comments to make, ACE is superb forgotten how good it really is. The Suspension with the Billies and Dobinsons on the front (32" would help as well), Billies and SLS on the rear, rode over speed bumps of which I drive over a lot on my home missing traffic lights with absolute aplomb, maybe that should be, disdain. The ATB in the front diff makes a world of difference, the stability and firmness I really enjoy, no 2" of free travel before turn in and the slightly wooly feel on the straight ahead.

Interested in your observations as to the data, it was about a 45 minute drive and as to how it may compare to files you have!

ohh have mounted the EWPC at the top of the windscreen, the panel is a little crude but will fix this up when I do the headlining. As I have it home I can disgorge the dining room of the interior and install it back in. Seems like a year since I removed the console and assorted other bits!

At the recommendation of Davies Craig, reset the thermostat temp up to 90C (5 degrees above the physical thermostat) and the drive out to Croydon had the temps going to about 95C and then back down - was showing 36C on the EXT temp display and today was revving it out to 4000+rpm (max boost shown was 23psi foot flat down and the EGT's again only in the 400's) to put some stress in there. Mostly it sat around 92C on the cruise on the Eastern and lower once slowed down.

The Nanocom was only registering high 80's all the way. Whilst I am yet to really stress the cooling system on the tracks, what I am totally confident of is that the EWP and EF do drop the temp quickly on shut off, it takes only minutes to drop the temp down up to 10C. Know in the TDi the heat soak took an age to drop down and this was set at 100C and was one of the main reason I have persevered with the DC system.

So fitted the drivers side rockslider, makes it so much easier to get in and will no doubt assist with lowering the RTT when using it - also doesn't look so strange.

Bull bar off to fit the Warn winch which will be completed tomorrow along with the steering protection plate and then basically set to go with just the radios to fit.

This leaves me just the Auto TC which will have to be done after the trip, and, hopefully may have a tune in my Christmas stocking!!!

She had a little lovin today, an engine oil and filter change, we're just about to click over 140,000km.

Not that I need reminding, but when modifying one thing it usually impacts un-noticed things.
I had the exhaust manifold surface ground on both faces (before ceramic coating)
The head face just enough to true it, the turbo face to set back the 3" dump from the chassis a touch, IIRC I only called for 0.125" to be removed.
It's made the already annoying task of removing the centrifugal filter housing another level tougher.
It was eventually doable but really, really annoying now.

And the leftover 10W-40 diesel oil went into a good friends Kia Cerato which seems to be consuming oil like a matron with Gin at the club. "Rick, I think my car needs oil again, it's making that noise, and it's not showing anything on the dipstick....."