Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

What a fun day, drain the coolant (again) out with the radiator, intercooler and ALL the front coolant pipes and then sitting down to figure how to fit the EWP. Whilst it was quite a few hours of fiddling I am incredibly pleased with the outcome. The chosen position was at the outlet of the front piping on the passenger side and just below the chassis rail, finished with about 1" of the EWP on the chassis rail and will probably put a mounting plate there tomorrow with the carrier rather than just letting it dangle.

Refitted the Electric fan as to how Davies Craig recommended - will see how it goes first - and happy that is all clear now without hindrance if I am to refit the VF, strangely I am quite confident I wont.

The cross pipe at the base of the engine was cut down, then cut down three more times and finally arrived at this - better safe than sorry and was happy to take it out and do it again rather than leaving a fitting nightmare of the piping to the engine.

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This was cut 'three' and put the EWP and up pipe put on to check fit, just had too much curve and put the EWP at 45 degrees to the chassis rail, it was only about an inch and half more which proved to perfect.
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Here is the EWP fitted and looking up at the block inlet.

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Then had to make a pipe from the lower radiator outlet to the cross pipe which was quite simply an extension of the pipe already made and then run the wiring for the EWP to power, this was the simplest of all and is run along the power steering pipes and up to the electrical board already insitu. There was enough length in them to run easily.

So to

Yesterday afternoon, I had some time, went to check the oil/coolant/general look into and under the bonnet .. twang!

Blasted cable snapped. Wasn't stiff at all. Just went loosey.

Got home later than I thought this arvo .. had to look into getting bonnet open.
Stupid damned security cover!!! .. arghhhhh!

Anyhow .... after reducing the grille into smaller, more manageable portions .. heaved mightly on the diabolical deformation that is the security cover .. snapped a bit of it off, and pulled aside.
Found the hook to pop the bonnet .. screwdriver in the ready position, small hammer at the ready .. 'tappy-tap-tap-tap' ... as the man on the youtube says! .. bonnet back up.

Oh! and oil level was fine, as well as coolant.

ps. the newly proportioned grille isn't a worry .. was already smashed up into a few missing pieces already .. have a spare, but in glaringly contrasting colour! Will try to give it a spot of paint soon.

The cable snapped at the eye end, but the eye looked just about ready to snap at the 'O' anyhow.

Originally Posted by AK83

Yesterday afternoon, I had some time, went to check the oil/coolant/general look into and under the bonnet .. twang!

Blasted cable snapped. Wasn't stiff at all. Just went loosey.

Got home later than I thought this arvo .. had to look into getting bonnet open.
Stupid damned security cover!!! .. arghhhhh!

Anyhow .... after reducing the grille into smaller, more manageable portions .. heaved mightly on the diabolical deformation that is the security cover .. snapped a bit of it off, and pulled aside.
Found the hook to pop the bonnet .. screwdriver in the ready position, small hammer at the ready .. 'tappy-tap-tap-tap' ... as the man on the youtube says! .. bonnet back up.

Oh! and oil level was fine, as well as coolant.

ps. the newly proportioned grille isn't a worry .. was already smashed up into a few missing pieces already .. have a spare, but in glaringly contrasting colour! Will try to give it a spot of paint soon.

The cable snapped at the eye end, but the eye looked just about ready to snap at the 'O' anyhow.

Job for when I get back. Remove security cover. Now you have put this out into the universe guess what?

Originally Posted by Tins

.... Now you have put this out into the universe guess what?

What was it Sgt Shultz used to say? ....

" .... I know nu-sink"

Originally Posted by RRT

We had looked at putting the EWP there initially, but with so much going on, went with the 'standard' installation point having no idea as to the impact it would have, it is just coolant flowing around isn't it!! Can say with all honesty was a bit flat driving home Sunday night trying to work out how we got it so wrong, not rocket science just thermodynamics it turns out lol.

Like the lateral thinking of the relocation, thinking you are making the cut at the droopy pipe, discarding this and inserting the thermostat there as I did with the coolant alarm / temp probe, are you also changing / experimenting with the temp range of the thermostat? This seems a popular thing to do with the V8 D2's in the States. One of the points made to me is that the standard flow system seems to be alright and is not under engineered for hotter climates that is, made for Pommy conditions not Aus.

My understanding re the fuel cooler from reading was that the circuit was to steady the temps rather than just cooling, warming it up at the start and cooling it once up to temp. Now to me it seems to be a little weird as the flow is not likely to be hotter on cold mornings as most people when its cold, turn the HVAC system up to get warm inside as quickly as possible, draining the heat out of the fluid and then when it is 'hot' turn it off providing hotter coolant across the fuel matrix... Therefore I came to the conclusion it is more a fuel warmer, not heater just warmer.

The FPR is sending the fuel through the head and once in the head fuel is 'hot' before it gets to the injectors anyway.

The thermostat needs to be as close as possible to where the heater pipe branches off the top radiator hose.

If it is placed in the area where the 'droopy pipe' currently is it will take longer to heat up because it will only have a small flow either via the bypass in the aftermarket housing or the small hole that should be drilled in the thermostat flange if using a non bypass housing.

By being next to the heater take off it will be getting bathed by the water coming straight out of the head and respond much quicker to temperature variations. I will run a thermostat at around 80C

That's why in more 'conventional' setups the thermostat housing is next to the head and the heater take off spout is part of the bottom of the housing so the thermostat is sitting directly in the water path as it flows off to the heater.

Re the fuel cooler, in the original factory setup where the radiator has a completely separate bottom section it is acting as a temperature stabilizer/cooler and would run cooler than the coolant temp in the main radiator. In the revised later radiator where there is no separate bottom section, it seems to me (happy to be corrected by any reader, for my ongoing knowledge on anything fuel cooler related) that it will bring the fuel up to coolant operating temp which is more for eu3 emission reasons.

I can't remember where but I have a post somewhere about some diesel fuel temp operating parameters I came across where ideally u want the diesel at 45C.

But I have a bunch of other bits on the kitchen table and the coolant re routing will wait for now, and there is the issue of bonnet clearance and air bleed hole placement to deal with re thermostat relocation.

Tomorrow is meant to be mid 30s' so I will go for a long spin with the nano hooked up if I get energetic enough and see what the fuel temp is like, ultimately I would like to run a deadhead setup with a return from the regulator and see what gives, I have the external regulator and slowly bought all the parts and tools to make my own nylon fuel lines up and am ready to play further after a few hot soak tests of the current setup.

There are nay sayers who think things should be left alone and the engineers know best, which is true when they (our landys) are working as the engineers intended, but as our vehicles are getting older and we are replacing bits anyway nothing wrong with 'hacking' the vehicle to suit the operator's whims.

In the States many years a go a larrikin racer by the name of Smokey Yunik mounted his alternator above the bonnet with a propeller to gain a tad more horsepower.

Also the thing people constantly overlook (written it before and probably will again) is these vehicles were made to go from factory floor to any part of the world with extremes of cold and heat and just work 'out of the box', they are designed and built accordingly, there are a lot of mods that can be done without compromising the basic reliability if you are modifying for your driving conditions where you are located, instead of worrying about whether it will perform to factory specs in -30 Celsius conditions it will never see in your hands.

Keep doing what you're doing and enjoy the adventure.

Oh, and what happened to my disco today ? It didn't piddle diff oil down the inside of my passenger front tyre. Touch wood the NAK axle seal did the job.

Went for a long drive today that turned out longer, slower and hotter due to an air leak somewhere on the boost side (could hear it ) that happened a couple kays after leaving home. Max boost on the nano was 111 i.e. under 2 psi boost. Terrible going up hills and not much better on the flat. I did leave aircon on whole trip of about an hour or so.

Car is cooling down under carport with bonnet up and I will have a squiz later.

I had the nano plugged in the whole trip and kept a visual on the coolant versus fuel temp quite regularly and am happy with the fuel temp staying 5 to 10 degrees below the coolant temp. 88 coolant temp was the highest I saw on the nano with fuel temp at 79 concurrently while battling up a steep rise with no boost.

Of course when I got home and went to stop the logging I discovered it wasn't logging coz I must have forgot to start it in my excitement to go pick up more electronic toys for my other hobby (yes the disco is now a hobby too, so I can dubiously justify the money spent for no tangible return)

The NAK axle seal from 4wdindustries (fitted 3 nights ago) seems to be holding up unlike the no name brand I put in a month ago, which I had ordered as a cheap 3 pound part many months ago when getting a wheel sensor from the UK.

I read many dated threads about the seals being a bit too tight in their measurements but assumed after so long this would have been sorted so never put the cheapy seal on the axle to test clearance while I had axle out. BAD MOVE, when I did it the other night I slipped both over the axle and could tell instantly the slight drag of the cheapy as versus the clearance of the NAK seal.

Originally Posted by johnp38

Went for a long drive today that turned out longer, slower and hotter due to an air leak somewhere on the boost side (could hear it ) that happened a couple kays after leaving home. Max boost on the nano was 111 i.e. under 2 psi boost. Terrible going up hills and not much better on the flat. I did leave aircon on whole trip of about an hour or so.

Car is cooling down under carport with bonnet up and I will have a squiz later.

I had the nano plugged in the whole trip and kept a visual on the coolant versus fuel temp quite regularly and am happy with the fuel temp staying 5 to 10 degrees below the coolant temp. 88 coolant temp was the highest I saw on the nano with fuel temp at 79 concurrently while battling up a steep rise with no boost.

Mirror this somewhat, arduous making and fitting of a new radiator to coolant rail pipe, damn bonnet strut is exactly the wrong place with this struggle, as with the intercooler to manifold pipe. Filled it back up with the EWP humming and just by using a tall funnel in the coolant bottle, got it bubbling over the bleed pipe, hmmm day started looking better.

Went hunting for the Nanocom and it was no where to be found (turns out BIL had packed it away in a box) when eventually found, hooked it up and started the TD5, nothing amazing just a slow rise of the temps to about 65 degrees and sat constant, no EF just sitting there with the EWP controller and Nanocom now only 1-3 degrees apart rather than 60 degree difference last time. All pipes were working as they should with the HVAC pipe just as hot as the rest of them and the heater in side working.

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The the EWP controller went off, hmmm what the, it turns out a 5 amp fuse blew, so took out the radio fuse and put this in place, display back on and temps steady.

Then the drive, did not have the SD card but drove with the two displays and the temps rose to 70 and sat solid, until I thought I had blown a Air Bag, it turns out all I did was blow off the turbo to intercooler pipe, didn't put a collar around it, real rookie mistake, so with less performance, drove it back. Fitted and decided to go for a long drive, for 90% of the time the temps sat around 80 degrees (I set the EWP controller to this) and went searching for stop go traffic, no problem get to 82 degrees and the fan came on and back to 78-79, repeat at least 5 more times and the same.

Then out for a longer run and at speeds of 80kph, sat at around 75-78 with the larger hills only upping it a degree or so. Back to the 40 & 60 kph traffic and it got to 87 and the alarm came on, but did not go over this, 5 mins it was back to the high 70's

Boosting at times was hitting low 20's and tried to work the engine with little foot pressure to keep it in lower gears, nothing to note. Parked it and the temps went down as the EWP and EF stayed operational and finalized at 75.

The external temp was showing 33C, so this was to me even more impressive as proof of concept. Still have to put it under more stress etc. Was laughing to myself somewhat as I was thinking I had no idea how the normal running of the temps go, that gauge just sits steady in the middle.

Hadn't mentioned (or wanted to without trying it first) the advice of Davies Craig which I took, get rid of the shroud, and just put the fan directly on the radiator, do not get a shroud. Tried to put forward the common dogma but he was adamant, the fan will work better this way. The one thing we got right was to locate up high at the inlet which was repeated here.

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Well, again without the knowledge of standard fluctuations, but the most it fluctuated was at a steady 60, temps up to 82 and back down to 75-77 as the fan blew in, sitting in the traffic the temps dropped and stayed below 80 degrees. Both Aircon units on of course, it was hot! Not totally proven I accept but a strong start.

So how do I think it went with the turbo and manifold ( still haven't got a tune ), well getting back in the d2a to drive home and what was noticeable it feels the same, just that I am not going as quickly, nothing amazing but the performance just keeps on coming, no slow down at 60kph and the lack of the centre console makes the noise different. Thinking the Auto TC would certainly take this advantage and then it would be greater.

The highest the EGT got by the way, now I know what they are, was just over 400C which seems a bit low for the turbo mouth, but again no previous data to put against/

Forgot to mention, have put the lights back in but the front shrouding was not on which may be why the 40-60 driving had the temps moving more, as the blow by would proportionally greater as to the required blow through the radiators. These will be fitted this week to see.

Is the EWP always flowing? Even a little? I sure hope so.

Also, make a frame up to mount that fan, otherwise on corrugations the through bolts will crack the capillaries.