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Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

  1. #8341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    If you can't refit a genuine pump back in maybe remove the whole bracket assembly, makes life easier I have done 4-5 water pumps for people that's the easiest way all genuine and all still going strong
    Yep.. everyone has their specific way.

    For me, it's not about if genuine doesn't fit ... make more work. Other than one small bolt, just removing the pump on it's own is easy peasy, without disturbing anything else.

    I use genuine parts where they're known to be better .. eg. td5 engine mounts, or MAF, as a couple of examples.
    But, there are examples where aftermarket is better than genuine. As an example, harmonic balancer on the TD5. I don't have a lot of experience with TD5 yet, but getting there.
    The Ross balancers get good reports, but expensive. If the current one fails again, before a reasonable timeframe, then the extra cash will get allocated for an aftermarket version.

    Aftermarket isn't something to be worried about simply because its aftemarket!
    My personal experience in this respect are suspension bushes on LR. Never again use 'genuine' due to their horrendous lack of durability when subsequently compared to aftermarket bushes.
    Lucas electrics were 'genuine' back in the day on LRs .. why would you knowingly replace with Lucas again(pretty much guaranteed to self destruct the day after the warranty expires! )

    So the question should really be. Why make more work for yourself with genuine parts, when aftermarket parts can make it easier and or better and more durable?
    After about 50 K klms, the pump is still fine and don't leak, so in my specific situation aftermarket is totally fine.

    FWIW, same situation on my Tdi too. One of the first round of unexpected repairs on my tdi was its waterpump. Searched for info on it and aftermarket pumps seemed to get a good rap. Proflow came up as a good alternative.
    >90K later, still holding up fine(I hope the long bolts are too).
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #8342
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRT View Post
    The bush is very difficult to get out and to do so had to tack weld on a bar and put it in a vice which then with a couple of turns came out sweetly.

    Attachment 179498

    Attachment 179499

    Just as easy to take it to a mechanic and get them to press it in I would suggest, it went in quite easily with little pressure from memory, easiest of the presses made when doing the rebuild anyway.

    Does the donut have triangles marked by the way, it does have to go in a specific way.

    Attachment 179500
    Attachment 179501
    Thanks for this, I had not noticed the triangles, I need to find a mechanic who can remove the bush and press in the new one, or put the old one is going back in, I am taking the kids to the snow next weekend. Waoit a couple of weeks and do the bush removal at work.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  3. #8343
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    If you have a set of cold chisels, bush in the tailshaft can come out with perseverance. Just chip away at the sides until you get a decent split, then fold it in on itself. It then gets loose enough you prise it out .

    Getting the new one in, is was a socket and hammer affair.

    IIRC it took about an hour all up only holding it between the knees on a chair.
    I have a nicely sized bench vise, but would have taken 2 hrs to clean up the bench(so that all the junk didn't fly off in every direction).

    It is a PIT@ of a job, and in hindsight I should have cleaned the bench, or strapped it to the bullbar, or whatever else can hold it solidly while hacking the bearing out.

    If you've ever done the cardan joint on the front prop and replaced the centre bearing in that assembly .. kind'a the same thing really.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  4. #8344
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    If you have a set of cold chisels, bush in the tailshaft can come out with perseverance. Just chip away at the sides until you get a decent split, then fold it in on itself. It then gets loose enough you prise it out .

    Getting the new one in, is was a socket and hammer affair.

    IIRC it took about an hour all up only holding it between the knees on a chair.
    I have a nicely sized bench vise, but would have taken 2 hrs to clean up the bench(so that all the junk didn't fly off in every direction).

    It is a PIT@ of a job, and in hindsight I should have cleaned the bench, or strapped it to the bullbar, or whatever else can hold it solidly while hacking the bearing out.

    If you've ever done the cardan joint on the front prop and replaced the centre bearing in that assembly .. kind'a the same thing really.
    I think I am getting old, I have a winch bar and ratchet straps galore but did not think of fixing the shaft to it. I did think of a cold chisel and heat. As for pressing the new one in, I'll heat the shaft and freeze the bush.
    I tried to do the front centre bearing and had needle bearings every where.

    Would a bearing puller work? or is the propshaft hallow and open?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  5. #8345
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    What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    I think I am getting old, I have a winch bar and ratchet straps galore but did not think of fixing the shaft to it. I did think of a cold chisel and heat. As for pressing the new one in, I'll heat the shaft and freeze the bush.
    I tried to do the front centre bearing and had needle bearings every where.

    Would a bearing puller work? or is the propshaft hallow and open?
    The shaft where the bush is is blind that is it’s not open. All you need to get the bush out is a hammer, a punch and bread - yes bread! Break off some bread and poke it in the hole until about half full, grab the punch and hammer and flatten the bread, and repeat - now remembering that the hole is blind keep repeating until something gives which will be the bush as the bread gets under it and forces the bush out.
    Total cost = 1/2 a bread roll and 10minutes of your time. What happened to your Discovery 2 today?
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  6. #8346
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    The shaft where the bush is blind that is it’s not open. All you need to get the bush out is a hammer, a punch and bread - yes bread! Break off some bread and poke it in the hole until about half full, grab the punch and hammer and flatten the bread, and repeat - now remembering that the hole is blind keep repeating until something gives which will be the bush as the bread gets under it and forces the bush out.
    Total cost = 1/2 a bread roll and 10minutes of your time. What happened to your Discovery 2 today?
    I love this. You'd need a wide punch? One that fits in the hole.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #8347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    I love this. You'd need a wide punch? One that fits in the hole.
    What ever works for you - but wider would get the job done quicker…..
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  8. #8348
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    What ever works for you - but wider would get the job done quicker…..
    Recently for a clutch spigot bush my son went to his socket set and used the 1/2inch drive extension from there to punch the bread in. Too easy - Work smart not hard What happened to your Discovery 2 today?
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  9. #8349
    shayne86 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    As for pressing the new one in, I'll heat the shaft and freeze the bush.
    I froze mine overnight, heated the shaft, a light coat of grease, fully expecting a fight and prepared for the worst (mine was very difficult to remove) .......
    only for it to go in with only the slightest of love taps. Was a bit of a relief to be honest

  10. #8350
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    Sick of the warped manifold whistle, so I've got this for the old girl.
    Only two broken studs to get out. Happy days

    IMG_20220702_131026.jpg

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