Yep.. everyone has their specific way.
For me, it's not about if genuine doesn't fit ... make more work. Other than one small bolt, just removing the pump on it's own is easy peasy, without disturbing anything else.
I use genuine parts where they're known to be better .. eg. td5 engine mounts, or MAF, as a couple of examples.
But, there are examples where aftermarket is better than genuine. As an example, harmonic balancer on the TD5. I don't have a lot of experience with TD5 yet, but getting there.
The Ross balancers get good reports, but expensive. If the current one fails again, before a reasonable timeframe, then the extra cash will get allocated for an aftermarket version.
Aftermarket isn't something to be worried about simply because its aftemarket!
My personal experience in this respect are suspension bushes on LR. Never again use 'genuine' due to their horrendous lack of durability when subsequently compared to aftermarket bushes.
Lucas electrics were 'genuine' back in the day on LRs .. why would you knowingly replace with Lucas again(pretty much guaranteed to self destruct the day after the warranty expires!)
So the question should really be. Why make more work for yourself with genuine parts, when aftermarket parts can make it easier and or better and more durable?
After about 50 K klms, the pump is still fine and don't leak, so in my specific situation aftermarket is totally fine.
FWIW, same situation on my Tdi too. One of the first round of unexpected repairs on my tdi was its waterpump. Searched for info on it and aftermarket pumps seemed to get a good rap. Proflow came up as a good alternative.
>90K later, still holding up fine(I hope the long bolts are too).
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
If you have a set of cold chisels, bush in the tailshaft can come out with perseverance. Just chip away at the sides until you get a decent split, then fold it in on itself. It then gets loose enough you prise it out .
Getting the new one in, is was a socket and hammer affair.
IIRC it took about an hour all up only holding it between the knees on a chair.
I have a nicely sized bench vise, but would have taken 2 hrs to clean up the bench(so that all the junk didn't fly off in every direction).
It is a PIT@ of a job, and in hindsight I should have cleaned the bench, or strapped it to the bullbar, or whatever else can hold it solidly while hacking the bearing out.
If you've ever done the cardan joint on the front prop and replaced the centre bearing in that assembly .. kind'a the same thing really.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
I think I am getting old, I have a winch bar and ratchet straps galore but did not think of fixing the shaft to it. I did think of a cold chisel and heat. As for pressing the new one in, I'll heat the shaft and freeze the bush.
I tried to do the front centre bearing and had needle bearings every where.
Would a bearing puller work? or is the propshaft hallow and open?
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
The shaft where the bush is is blind that is it’s not open. All you need to get the bush out is a hammer, a punch and bread - yes bread! Break off some bread and poke it in the hole until about half full, grab the punch and hammer and flatten the bread, and repeat - now remembering that the hole is blind keep repeating until something gives which will be the bush as the bread gets under it and forces the bush out.
Total cost = 1/2 a bread roll and 10minutes of your time.![]()
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Sick of the warped manifold whistle, so I've got this for the old girl.
Only two broken studs to get out. Happy days
IMG_20220702_131026.jpg
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