Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

IMHO it is much easier to work from the front and remove the water pump along with the bracket for the power steering pump.
There is an oring between the bracket and the block that should be changed when the water pump is changed, or it may begin to leak necessitating the whole job to be done yet again.
Regards PhilipA

….. what Philip said x2

The new flexible coupler, very stiff compared to the old one. It came with three bolts, it uses 6. It also has the part TVD000020 a bush, which I think fits between the diff parts and the prop shaft. I'll have to pull the old one out.

20220629_164848.jpg
Fun times tomorrow.

edit. The bush gets pressed in. How do I press it in without a press? Freeze it overnight and blow torch the housing?

Ok, technically this didn't happen today, I got back from the school run last Friday and noticed a steady stream of water running from under the car. the start of a small saga!
Quick inspection I found a split hose.
PXL_20220625_015137137.jpg

Brief call to local LR specialist and I was able to pick up the parts before they shut for the weekend - awesome I can get the job done quickly Saturday morning.
I ended up buying 3 pipes and the thermostat, but when I started changing everything over I also found that my top hose bleed screw was broken! no problem, get a step ahead, drain the system, change the pipes and look to get the top hose on Monday morning......

This is what came out when I drained the system..

PXL_20220624_235744152.jpg

Ended up flushing through a few times till I got almost clear water coming out. New top hose fitted and new coolant in the system then the O rings split on the expansion tank cap. Time to pop back and get a new one of those.

Hopefully I can fit the cap and bleed the system tomorrow.

Whilst doing all this work I have already spotted a bunch of other pipes which could do with replacing in the future as it looks like the previous owner used generic hose (which has rubbed in many places) rather than buying the proper shaped hoses.

6 months of owning the car and this is the first 'big' job I've had to deal with, I am sure there will be more, and I'm actually looking forward to them (I would never have said that with my previous cars!!). Loving the forum too as it has been an absolute godsend for finding fixes to all the issues I've had so far.

Technically happened on Friday but has been an on-going saga since then.

Started with a split hose

PXL_20220625_015137137.jpg

Ended up with replacing 4 hoses, the thermostat and have had to pick up a new expansion tank cap too.

This is the 'coolant' which was drained

PXL_20220624_235744152.jpg

New coolant ready to go in tomorrow, bleed the system then hopefully I'm back on the road......

Keep a close eye on the expansion tank. The plastic item is a known problem, tending to split. The best replacement being the aftermarket, alloy one from the U.K..
The replaced hoses will put extra strain on the expansion tank.

Originally Posted by AK83

I posted way earlier in this thread too ... this depends on what water pump you got(as in bought and is already installed), it seems not all pumps are identical. Some pumps are made dimensionally just slightly different.
When we did bros Td5, had a hell of a time getting the old pump wriggled out from down there. Thought at one stage to slice a corner off it with grinder to get it out, but that wouldn't help get the new one in would it. So twisted and turned it for ... far too long to get it between the centrifugal housing and the casting, and almost nearly removed the oil housing. Bro had a go, I had a go, bro had a go .. etc. It was only millimeters in it, but was looking hopeless at one stage, till we(can't remember if him or me) ... struck the correct tetris orientation and it came out.

"There was much rejoicing!" ... can't describe the jubilation accurately enough, as to how annoying this removal process was becoming.
Then of course try to get it back in carefully to be sure, noted the orientation and pushed back in. Pulled back out and no probs. Felt confident to get the new pump in now, without the additional headache of removing the centrifugal housing.
So I went to get the new pump between the obstructing hardware and it just went in. No care taken to 'orient' it exactly the way it needed to be, just straight in. Haha... pot luck it would seem.

No!
The new(Bearmach) pump was something like 5mm shorter in length than the pump that came out. Can't recall exactly, maybe the keyed shaft end or whatever, but without thinking the shorter length allowed it the clearance to get between the obstructions in any way.

I only assume that the pump that came out was original .. couldn't really tell. Didn't care, and not smart enough to get photos at the time.

But .. still have it in mind that if it ever needs(or I have to deal with a leaking td5 water pump again ... get bearmach to be sure it fits easily .. and grind the old one to tiny bits, it she don't come out in one shot!

Why on earth would you go to all that trouble and fit aftermarket and not genuine?

Originally Posted by Bohica

The new flexible coupler, very stiff compared to the old one. It came with three bolts, it uses 6. It also has the part TVD000020 a bush, which I think fits between the diff parts and the prop shaft. I'll have to pull the old one out.

20220629_164848.jpg
Fun times tomorrow.

edit. The bush gets pressed in. How do I press it in without a press? Freeze it overnight and blow torch the housing?

The bush is very difficult to get out and to do so had to tack weld on a bar and put it in a vice which then with a couple of turns came out sweetly.

20211010_161645.jpg

20211010_161637.jpg

Just as easy to take it to a mechanic and get them to press it in I would suggest, it went in quite easily with little pressure from memory, easiest of the presses made when doing the rebuild anyway.

Does the donut have triangles marked by the way, it does have to go in a specific way.

TVF100010_INSTRUCTIONS.jpg
BJS.jpg

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

Why on earth would you go to all that trouble and fit aftermarket and not genuine?

I guess same could be asked of a turbo ....

I suppose in the case of the waterpump, if the one we pulled out was genuine, then it was the cause of frustration(of hard to remove/refit).
The aftermarket one was easier to refit. So far(about 50K klms) no issue with it, therefore no reason not to use aftermarket .. is there?