What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

**AK83** · 13th April 2022, 07:51 PM

the D2 lives!
Auto lines changed, coolant fixed up proper, steering box changed ... and I kind'a sort'a fixed a small faux pas I did some time back on the fuel return line, with a semi proper arrangement too .. and she still goes.
I was worried that auto may have received some damage having lost about 9-ish lt of fluid(that's roughly how much I refilled with, anyhow) .. but it changes smoothly and feels like normal ... so far.

**shack** · 13th April 2022, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by RRT

CODE P1884
CAN MESSAGE MD-IND INVALID
(FLAG F-TL-MES)

Thanks RRT , I think that fault code comes up when the engine ECU and trans ECU lose contact with each other, like when you cycle the ignition too quick, or do a Remap.

**RRT** · 13th April 2022, 10:03 PM

One of those jobs that has fallen by the wayside, the rear door card. Wanted to keep the lower box as well as the subwoofer cabinet for the Harmon Kardon system so this I think is a pretty elegant and simple system as against the fold down or total replacement of the door card.

Today just put the small tool box on for the utensils (it opens downwards, that is the latches are up the top) and the two arms for the bench are going to be fixed to the bench once the door card is insitu. The bench itself is 1200 * 300 off the bunnings shelf jobby which should allow for plenty of room to prepare - in fact it is more bench space than I have here at home!!

Pics aren't that great and obviously the subwoofer box is not on until it is installed. Rather looking forward to the completeness of sound which already is pretty decent without the subwoofer component.

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Lost my length of velcro to be rivetted on for attaching the Jetboil which will sit next to the utility box and rest on the rear door arm for stability. Then attaching the fire extinguisher to upper section of the lower door.

Also this evening removed one of the rear seats (one next to the rear air con unit) as got a cheap set of drawers and a frame which pretends it is a cargo barrier. The frame will be used for mounting the electrical equipment such as the invertor, AEG (chainsaw) and Ryobi chargers as well the Automatic Air System for the tyres(similar to ones you see at the petrol station, set the pressure and wait). Drawers aren't on rollers but I can remove one of them easily to fit the upright fridge when it arrives.

Had a change of mind about the other seat which I was going to leave but now I see the bolts it looks like the perfect place to put an air compressor and back battery mounting plate.

**RRT** · 14th April 2022, 06:40 AM

Originally Posted by RRT

Fitted the ACE pump and thanks to the info on this forum, the bleeding was a cinch with a loose banjo bolt and off went the ACE light on the dash. Nanocom of course told it was a speed sensor!

Then when changing the power steering pump, moved the reservoir and noticed a pin hole leak, it wasn't noticeable when we bleed it and of course with the intercooler and turbo piping, totally hidden. The power steering pump which I erroneously purchased due to thinking it was issue was changed as well. May as well have the second hand one I got as the spare on the shelf.

The replacement hose was extortion, $66 for less than a foot long hose...

Well last night a short drive to a mates to discuss next weekend and a future Robe trip, heavy steering again and getting out, the total evacuation of both sides of the reservoir. I had put the hose on the PS pump and the BIL had installed and not tightened it and together we had a very open outlet for the fluid it appears. So back today to tighten and refill both sides of the reservoir only to find a drip still on the drivers side.

Had checked the pipes when I changed the filter in the ACE system, all the way along to the actuators and they were dry. Had therefore assumed that the leak was the one found in the pipe to the reservoir.

Well not today, the upper pipe to the front actuator just where it come through from the engine bay had a leak. Looks like a PITA job and dependent on the price of a new hose, may just take the old one down to pirtek and get them to replace the rubber. May as well take both down actually and then install with a suitable protective cover. Suppose after 269K's a new pump is going to pump harder...

Decided to hook up the Hawkeye and have a look at the fault codes which the Nanocom had listed as a Speed Sensor Fault and could not clear. The fault shown on Hawkeye was that the Front Ram had exceeded height parameters, cleared and not reappeared on either Hawkeye or the Nanocom! Horses for courses it would appear - if you want to fix ACE issues, the horses name is Hawkeye. Now time to fit the rear door handle and door card and get ready for the Easter break up to the High Country.

**RRT** · 14th April 2022, 09:29 AM

Productive little morning, Number Plate surround which was well overdue, had an issue that one of the bolt holes did not align up, but three should be sufficient and the door does shut better anyway.

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Door Card with Table, now just have to attach the brackets to the table. After 6 months having trouble finding the bolts for the subwoofer but they are here somewhere!!
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'Cargo Barrier' and the drawers, pretty good value for well under a $100
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EDIT

Did find the bolts and sub all hooked up and sounding very pleasant indeed.

**Tombie** · 14th April 2022, 05:02 PM

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Yes! The autos pretty severly limit engine mods because of doing this. All of the big power figures seem to be in manuals. I'm not sure what the point is that it trips, it might be 400Nm, but you can hit it with just a tune and larger intercooler.

Around 440Nm

**V8Ian** · 14th April 2022, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by Tombie

Around 440Nm

Crikey, my rattle gun can make that!

**Tombie** · 15th April 2022, 05:50 AM

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Crikey, my rattle gun can make that!

Yep. Now times by 1.4 and 4.11

What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

**Bohica** · 16th April 2022, 04:01 PM

Got a slow puncture on Beardmores track. Refill after 30 mins or so. The TPMS was reminding me when the pressure got too low.
Burnt out the TC light on Low Saddle Track. Well not really, but the light was on just about permanently on one uphill section nick named Wombat Holes.
The tyre has a 30mm split. Unrepairable, new tyre on Tuesday.

**Brucie** · 16th April 2022, 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by RRT

Of course I didn't take the Nanocom, of course...

So today finally refitted the VF, not because the EF didn't work, was well pleased with it, but to get a base line comparison. Have hooked up the ACCF to the system for turn off cooling and no on demand any more.

The EWPC was showing only around 70C for much of the time and down in the 60C's in some instances with a high of just under 80C which is too low. Reset the thermostat from 92C to 100C a couple of k's before home and this got the temps higher, not enough though.

There was a noticeable drop in power (and increase in noise of course, though not unpleasant) just a touch less buoyancy in the step but still more than adequate, a lot more than adequate I should say!

The EWP is too efficient I surmised when measured against the mechanical pump and the always on aspect of the VF, the Electric system kept the temps as to where I wanted them but as the VF is always cooling I have to trim the efficiency of the EWP with higher Thermostat temps it would appear. The temp on the HVAC display was just 18C so not exactly warm but still the temps stayed low.

If the EF was always on and rose with temps in accordance with them, suppose the result would be quite similar but the DC system is on or off as far as the EF goes. Have already sourced a replacement 18" fan by the way with 4000CFM and this can be controlled as well. It is a little larger than the radiator but this will not be a issue. The 16" fan will go onto the D2a for day to day duties as a daily driver with an EWC and EWPC when I do this up with Hybrid CHRA, EGT removal and straight through pipe from exhaust to muffler.

Reasonably normal looking TD5 now except for the darkside manifold.
Attachment 178074

Then replaced the Head Temp Sensor, 2 minute job and the red light above the temp is gone and the idle is now back to 750rpm and no stutter at start up or sitting at 1000rpm at a stop.

Then what would have to be the simplest of jobs (if you have the back door card off) is the resiting (flipping really) of the wheel carrier. Two holes drilled in the back bars and a small cut out for the rear wiper and around half an hour of work. Now will have a proper 32" spare on the tracks this weekend.

Attachment 178075

Oh and fitted the Land Rover Cup Holders, really like these as have removed the carriage for the dash ones when refitting the console, was going to put the UHF there but there is something else in the pipeline for this space, watch it! Sort of glad I painted the console offsetting them a little bit more

Attachment 178076

Just a couple more things to complete, like the handbrake and low range covers, change over the broken rear door handle and refit the door card and woofers before the weekend. Then the last thing, headlining.

How have you found the darkside manifold? Had any cracking or warping issues?

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