Reply With QuoteEBD will be the downfall on a reverse downhill recovery.
Hand brake if maintained and not covered in oil is far more effective especially in this application.
I’ve used mine in Lara, Azz and the D2 many a time with great effect.
Swaggie
I wouldn't use the handbrake, a couple of reasonsOriginally Posted by RRT
The LT230 handbrake in my experiences degrades quite quickly when used as a brake when moving compared to just a brake lock. It also loses adjustment very quickly. The foot brake is designed for this and is far more powerful.
You cant modulate the handbrake as well as a foot brake or get off it as quickly.
Its pretty safe to accept there will be wheel slip in these conditions and on each axle this will feed through an open diff reducing or removing braking effort to both wheels instead of just one.
I hadn't really thought too much about it on the tracks, but the EBD may also help with brake balance. I'm not sure what difference that makes though, potentially it will allow easier driving through the brakes.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
OldBushie
EBD will be the downfall on a reverse downhill recovery.
Hand brake if maintained and not covered in oil is far more effective especially in this application.
I’ve used mine in Lara, Azz and the D2 many a time with great effect.
YarnMaster
Handle turned up earlier in the week, it's definitely solid! Fitting was pretty straight forward now Ive been in and out of the door a few times.
Started to trim down the locating nubs off the original rubber backing however it turned out to be a little to rotten and started falling apart. Only thing I managed to save was the bit around where the lever goes through the door, little bit of Tarzans grip to hold it in position and it's good as gold.
For the main seal, a quick trip to Bunnings for a roll of 25mm x 13mm closed cell sealing tape and made a perimeter seal around the edges plus a strip in the V groove where the top bolt hole goes through. This made the top of it not close down quite as much as the bottom bolts, you can see it sit proud in the pics however this tap is 13mm thick, the final gap is about 6mm and its rock solid. Think it's even taken a bit of slack out of the lever as well, has a lot tighter feel to it.
Not my best trimming job around the corners either...
Badge recess needed some filing to get it in only to find it wouldn't stay in place as the fibreglass is fairly thick, ended up filing a few recesses where the badge clips hold on to give them a chance to grab on.
All in all pretty stoked, doesn't need to be painted but I've got a bottle of Black Forest Ceramics wipe on ceramic coat somewhere, will seal it up and stop it fading.
Swaggie
We will differ there! I'll stay with the brakes!
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Swaggie
Sounds like I need to place an order also! That was the Landy Nut one?
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
YarnMaster
That's the one.
Couple of things I forgot to mention, the lights took a little maneuvering to get in, take a bit of time and open up the gap between the front and back to make it easier to fit them plus drillout the screw holes to 2.5mm and superglue or Tarzan Grip the speednuts from the old handle to the inside as the fibreglass didn't like taking the thread for the screws, first one cracked a little and pulled all the fibreglass out.
TopicToaster
SupporterAh! .. ok. thnx.
Never thought of that .. wouldn't have thunk it a possibility .. but yep!
IMO, there is less chance that the brake shoes will degrade at all on an LT230 as 99.9% of them will be covered in oil.
Using them in slow speed manoeuvres is a good way to get a bit of heat build up to burn off the oil on the shoes and make them more effective ... for a short time at least!
I use it all the time in steep downhill situations mainly due to the fact that the auto isn't as effective when engine braking.
Yesterdays endeavour was to get the auto cooler pipes on .. yay for stupid design again!. I should have removed the XYZ switch, but knowing my luck a new issue will have transpired.
Crows foot and a ultra short cobbled up extension saw the top pipe off ..... in record slow time!
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Fossicker
This weekend I tackled making and installing rear drawers in the d2. Didn't want to pay a arm and a leg for them so tried my hand at it20220410_171456.jpg20220410_171459.jpg
Master
SupporterAchy Breaky Body held together by ibuprofen but got the deed done.
IMG_20220411_141646.jpg Not suiting my purposes and I won't be putting jerrycans on the roof either.
IMG_20220411_142303.jpg For some reason I thought this flashing hazard gizmo was stuck to the bottom of the rack but alas no. And of course the bolts spun as I undid the nuts, removed the assembly and re tightened them to cover holes, luckily the headliner stopped the bolts falling through.
IMG_20220411_162003.jpg More suited to my needs, just need a Pi bar on the front for those purlins and long sheets of corro.
Actually saw one made up of 50mm fence pipe and t-piece fence clamps which was clamped on top of ARB roo bar as needed. Too smart for me to think of, so I will either copy it and save some thinking or make one of my own design up to drop onto receiver tubes on the roo bar.
IMG_20220411_142425.jpg So do I keep this in case it comes in useful later, or sell it off? Not sure if I should strip the light bar and the rear work lights off or sell as is. Could always do with a few extra dollars so can anyone suggest a value to put on it. It's an ARB deluxe heavy duty thingummy but half length just covering the hump. Very rigid and heavy, I swear I now have a nose down look on the disco whereas before it was level ! Work lights are thick glass and heavy heat sink body, light bar is Kings brand 54cm, all came with vehicle.
Master
SupporterOf course I didn't take the Nanocom, of course...
So today finally refitted the VF, not because the EF didn't work, was well pleased with it, but to get a base line comparison. Have hooked up the ACCF to the system for turn off cooling and no on demand any more.
The EWPC was showing only around 70C for much of the time and down in the 60C's in some instances with a high of just under 80C which is too low. Reset the thermostat from 92C to 100C a couple of k's before home and this got the temps higher, not enough though.
There was a noticeable drop in power (and increase in noise of course, though not unpleasant) just a touch less buoyancy in the step but still more than adequate, a lot more than adequate I should say!
The EWP is too efficient I surmised when measured against the mechanical pump and the always on aspect of the VF, the Electric system kept the temps as to where I wanted them but as the VF is always cooling I have to trim the efficiency of the EWP with higher Thermostat temps it would appear. The temp on the HVAC display was just 18C so not exactly warm but still the temps stayed low.
If the EF was always on and rose with temps in accordance with them, suppose the result would be quite similar but the DC system is on or off as far as the EF goes. Have already sourced a replacement 18" fan by the way with 4000CFM and this can be controlled as well. It is a little larger than the radiator but this will not be a issue. The 16" fan will go onto the D2a for day to day duties as a daily driver with an EWC and EWPC when I do this up with Hybrid CHRA, EGT removal and straight through pipe from exhaust to muffler.
Reasonably normal looking TD5 now except for the darkside manifold.
20220412_155202.jpg
Then replaced the Head Temp Sensor, 2 minute job and the red light above the temp is gone and the idle is now back to 750rpm and no stutter at start up or sitting at 1000rpm at a stop.
Then what would have to be the simplest of jobs (if you have the back door card off) is the resiting (flipping really) of the wheel carrier. Two holes drilled in the back bars and a small cut out for the rear wiper and around half an hour of work. Now will have a proper 32" spare on the tracks this weekend.
20220412_155220.jpg
Oh and fitted the Land Rover Cup Holders, really like these as have removed the carriage for the dash ones when refitting the console, was going to put the UHF there but there is something else in the pipeline for this space, watch it! Sort of glad I painted the console offsetting them a little bit more
20220412_162551.jpg
Just a couple more things to complete, like the handbrake and low range covers, change over the broken rear door handle and refit the door card and woofers before the weekend. Then the last thing, headlining.
2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil
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