What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

. Its attached at pillar + along the fender at the bottom side.

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Can see it now, looks like a welded flat piece to the underside and about six screws, like it simple.

Well the size of the GU air box will have no problems fitting in the space, just have to adjust the height it sits in there to get the best angle of the inlet to the snorkel. There is a fair bit of room as to the outlet, well sufficient it would appear if the inlet was sitting level with the current cutout. Have to look at another variation which claims increased cfm's but sites the air intake slightly lower.

ZD30 Airbox Style Stainless Steel Air Box suits Nissan Patrol GQ GU

This looks like it will have to orientated in a single direction (lid design with fewer screws) but it appears to be in the right direction so to speak. Just means that the bend into the inlet would be 90' through side wall of the engine bay - haven't measured exactly where that would be on the outer panel yet but as it is approx 13cm's from the outer edge, think it would miss the current inlet and be under the bonnet alarm, hmmmm.

Seeing their cfm claim, started to look at this aspect as to finding empirical data, my favorite - the quoted figure in the ad is at 8" of water.

Well on this site found,
Donaldson in TD5

it pointed to a website to calculate the needs of an engine - Air Flow (CFM) | Widman International SRL - not entirely sure this is accurate!

Well scored a roof rack today (three day odyssey really) which to replace the cheap one I got to get the RRT home. The forward tray was too thin to mount the tent in so it hangs over the back door but is rock solid, pulling on the rack, the D2 moves not the bars and RRT. The front space looks like a great place to mount a top up solar panel charger when Edwards not in use. Let alone I can now mount a shade on with out worrying about integrity, and lights and...

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Sure makes a difference and must be about 2" lower.

Attachment 178479

One thing though had to mount the tent to the rack before fitting the rack, just no room to get under the tray to do it.

Nice looking rack[thumbsupbig]
A lightbar and a solar panel would be the goods on that front section [bigrolf]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRT

Well scored a roof rack today (three day odyssey really) which to replace the cheap one I got to get the RRT home. The forward tray was too thin to mount the tent in so it hangs over the back door but is rock solid, pulling on the rack, the D2 moves not the bars and RRT. The front space looks like a great place to mount a top up solar panel charger when Edwards not in use. Let alone I can now mount a shade on with out worrying about integrity, and lights and...

Sure makes a difference and must be about 2" lower.

One thing though had to mount the tent to the rack before fitting the rack, just no room to get under the tray to do it.

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I think I like your previous setup better, I wish I had a solid 3 bar no flat deck setup for my RTT, seems having a flat deck is more annoying, like I ended up cutting out 2 slats that ran parallel to the rack to allow my tent to sit down lower on the rack, essentially sitting on the horizontal supports. Plus also all the extra structure weight that is not needed when you can get away with 3 cross bars.

What annoy's me now with my tent is since fitting the 270 awning I have had to off set the weight and push it to one side to avoid listing when static but doing so I now have a gap on one side lol.. for any serious rock crawling or off camber 4wd stuff I take the tent off any way as that top weight makes me feel like I am going to tip over too easy especially with sway-bars disconnected, its a fun drive. The swag wins for those trips.

https://i.ibb.co/5vmvSPF/photo-2022-04-30-17-02-03.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Qpm2Hzf/photo-2022-04-30-17-02-06.jpg

roof paint is on my to do list .... ha ha looks bad here.

So .... drum roll.... touch wood. No more oil leaks.

https://i.ibb.co/0Yy6M8f/photo-2022-04-30-12-55-34.jpg

Did the rocker cover gasket, injector loom, and front cam seal. My only oil leaks. gave it all a big degrease and a long drive after, zero oil spots now. Hopefully lasts like this more than a few months haha. #landroverlife

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

I think I like your previous setup better, I wish I had a solid 3 bar no flat deck setup for my RTT, seems having a flat deck is more annoying, like I ended up cutting out 2 slats that ran parallel to the rack to allow my tent to sit down lower on the rack, essentially sitting on the horizontal supports. Plus also all the extra structure weight that is not needed when you can get away with 3 cross bars.

What annoy's me now with my tent is since fitting the 270 awning I have had to off set the weight and push it to one side to avoid listing when static but doing so I now have a gap on one side lol.. for any serious rock crawling or off camber 4wd stuff I take the tent off any way as that top weight makes me feel like I am going to tip over too easy especially with sway-bars disconnected, its a fun drive. The swag wins for those trips.

roof paint is on my to do list .... ha ha looks bad here.

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Those bars I had were in a word, crap, expedient yes, but crap! It was noted by the others at each stop on the tracks that the tent was swaying noticeably and agree that there was a top heavy feel. Even driving home this was reduced. Suppose with the SLS and ACE on the roads that rolling feel is mitigated somewhat but will have to see out on the tracks as to such feeling. The tray already has attachments for the awning so will have to wait and see as to how this effects the setup - your rack seems wider than this one by the way.

Attachment 178496

The RRT Rack with 9" stays sits low and had to carefully place so as to not have to take off the standard racks but as I was having to put it further forward due to the front section, no problem and happy, very happy with the siting.

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The RRT is mounted directly onto the mesh, no modification and no gap whatsoever keeping the weight as low as possible. Did do the swag thing but even the larger kings one felt claustrophobic to me, let alone that it took up the whole back seat area and had to push the door closed with a hip and shoulder bump, well almost.

Leak finding, this is a job to be done, did have a sizeable leak from the cam seal from when we did the head, but there is still a leak from the head area, but where and may need to remove the cover and refit, good job to have done.

Attachment 178499
Fitted this Smartbar over last couple of days.
Net gain of only 7KG over stock bumper, wombat bar plus a couple of recovery hooks I had added.. I was able to construct a air duct under to the stock air duct and bend the RH inner guard to fit the bottom, and add a bit to the LH inner guard to protect the washer bottle. Biggest hassle was that the indictor bulbs were wired incorrectly from factory, however a member stated why didn't I just put the LEDs in the bullbar which was good info as I had fitted the plugs with correct polarity. Obvious when you are not tired and ****ed off.

I have been looking for years for one and only 3 have come up over 8 years that I was able to find.

I had to drive 740Km to Warwick and back to get it but IMHO worth it. A member here sold it as was moving house. Thanks Don.
Regards PhilipA

Finally got sick of the sagging roof liner. Out she came! Was a bit of a tight fit out the door but i was lazy and left the daughters booster seat in.

Now the fun part of removing all the foam. Yay [emoji58][emoji106]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bb3d3d201e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...14fc5324c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2eeafd117c.jpg

Recovered the D2 from a side street where son had pulled up after engine died and was leaking diesel from the RHS of the engine a couple of days ago.
As I suspected it was the fuel hose that goes into the head from the FPR (EU3) engine.
Circled in the attached pic.

Attachment 178535

Second time this has 'unscrewed' itself in about a year.
Prior to that nothing and the FPR was replaced about 7 years ago.

Happily a relatively quick fix roadside after I sourced the o-rings (LR list them as NLA)
O-ring on the pipe was broken when I took it off.
Absolute PITA tightening though even with our specially manufactured ring spanner from previous time.

Noted to check regularly at service times - any insights into this or if anyone else has seen the issue?

After the last trip away, the vibration at speeds over 90kph had gotten worse so had checked the coupling and it was showing signs... Had thought initially it was mud in the wheels but cleaning them did not make a difference so time to change the coupling.

To say I was shocked at the state of a few month old coupling is an understatement. This was under 2000k's since fitting.


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The bands were visible and the coupling was a worthless clump of rubber with metal inserts. Not sure where I purchased it from but it was into the preparation over the 2 years before all the work was done.

May have been partially responsible it would appear as now know as to fitting them as to orientation with the fitting, old coupling did not have the arrows shown - that said the óld' spare which is GKN is not perfect and again there is vibration but nothing like the previous one. Did change the bearing last time so did not think it would warrant it today, could it be that?
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Attachment 178539
This also on the British Parts website

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Fitting the diff guards also left the upper bolts of the diff housing too loose it would appear and a slight leak from such had been hiding itself there.


As the ACE leaks have been alleviated, it was time to turn to the LHS front axle seal, it had been assumed it was the ACE fluid dripping down and wetting the inside of the wheel, since it had still been wet so got new seal and BIL replaced it today. When we originally put in the Ashcroft axles we did have a fair bit of problem seating this seal and getting it to sit properly. Lot more care siting it and the axle slid in beautifully and pretty much assured it wont leak again. Fill up both diffs with mineral oil for the ATB's and away.

Also got a great deal on a barely used 2nd hand Darche 270 awning for 1$ more than the Kings one new. There was caveat, turned out had a broken casting on the one of the arms. Went to the Darche outlet in Thomastown and they gave me two castings for FREE, no questions asked. Had the cash in my hand to pay by the way. Simple job by the way, undo the two bolts on the axle, drill out the rivet on the arm and put in the new casting, rivet and reattach the assembly.


Last night had the darndest thing happen. Driving out for dinner put the headlights on and only the drivers side high beam came on. Turn it off and restart, same. Put the high beams on and nothing changed, turn the high beams off and nothing changed, only the drivers side high beam. Tonight, both lights on and high beam goes on and off without issue.