I'd always assumed given it's a 4*4 they overspecced them to to handle getting abused off road. I know with Toyo 70 series alloys they're ~10kg for 16's and I think a disco 16" is fairly similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by shayne86
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I'd always assumed given it's a 4*4 they overspecced them to to handle getting abused off road. I know with Toyo 70 series alloys they're ~10kg for 16's and I think a disco 16" is fairly similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by shayne86
Took her down the beach for a run.
Attachment 174746
Changed the shocks recently, but still have a heavy metallic 'thunk' noise when driving over rough surfaces.
Translates into thunk noise when bounced vigorously both up and down and sideways.
First thoughts were watts link. A couple of days back I tried to pull the one out of the spare(as the entire car was very tight) .. no go.. don't have 21mm tools!
Who the hell invented 21mm bolt heads and nuts! [bighmmm]
Anyhow.. couple of tools were got, and removed spare watts link this morning. No play in the joints other then what looks to be normal flex in the two side bushes in the centre pivot.
Popped the D2 up on it posterior, only to find same deal .. watts link is fine.
Shaking/rolling it still makes the 'thunk' noise .... arrggghhh!
Going to get some new springs(from LRA, most likely) and replace.
They don't seem to feel right(and very rusty), and they need to be removed and fitted properly anyhow, as the previous person that fitted them placed the isolators at the bottom instead of the tops! :bat:
Hoping that stuff up is the source of the 'thunking' noise too.
replaced the fuel pressure regulator [eu 3] with a bosch one and now it leaks from top line , second crimp near the front of the head [bigsad] not happy .
Hey also check out the swaybar down links as they knock before they fail - notably the top of the rears. Also sway bar chassis bushes F&R.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
What a difference going to a shop makes!
Well, five shops and finally got the pipes suitable to modify for the EWP installation. Essentially need two 35mm 90' bends for the radiator to EWP and a 35mm to 32mm reduction with length for EWP to lower metal coolant pipe under the engine block. Ideally would have liked some silicon for this and may replace them with this later but happy to get pipes to fit. Many thanks to Autobarn out on Canterbury Road Bayswater for taking the time to measure stock coolant hoses to find the appropriate ones to fit. For my reference (ha) just under $50 well spent.
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Should note to anyone who has (or has to) taken off or replaced a coolant spring clip, this type of tool is invaluable, pliers work but are so much work! Note I didn't get this one but got a set of clips and the tool together from a company in QLD but the tool itself is the same design.
Professional Hose Clamp Pliers Repair Tool Swivel Flat Band for Removal and Installation of Ring-Type or Flat-Band Hose Clamps : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement
We spent some time deciding where we would put the EWP, whilst down directly out of the radiator would be optimum the space was just too small and decided against resting it on the power steering box. Maybe if I went with a smaller EWP rather than the 150lpm, it may fit nicely but wanted the max flow possible.
So we choose where the hoses would have a better run, it sits roughly at the same height as the original water pump and if, that's IF, the electric fan needs to be replaced with the viscous for cooling later, the give in the pipes will allow it move outwards and them to miss the fan. By the way we used the Davies Craig mount to attach to the shroud although it is held up without problem by the strength of the pipes.
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Next up was the turbo outlet and now knowing can clock the compressor, that is the compressor housing can be turned around rather than staying aligned to turbo as with standard Turbo, the positioning allows for a straighter outlet and once we have trimmed the pipes the kinking at the intercooler inlet should be gone or at worst, minimal.
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The supplied oil feed has to be twisted to fit, would have been better if the turbo banjo had been swiveled by 90' to face down but there is a enough length to enable it be fitted with a lazy twist due to the quality of the hose, its almost solid.
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Connected up the trans oil cooler as well, the goldilocks fit, just right
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First job today is fit the front Bilsteins whilst everything is out of the way and make it easy.
got the front cross member lifts from LRA - gratifying when I had asked him the question as to which ones - $50 or $110 ones, and he said the cheaper ones will do! So once the exhaust is fitted on they will go.
Sorry to hear that Mark, you’ve certainly had full D2 experience in the last couple of years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Markf
I’m waiting with baited breath for my auto to play up, which it ultimately must.
To be fair the auto didn't play up at all. It behaved perfectly for a nearly 20,000 km trip towing nearly two tonnes all the way. The trip started out with a good workout from Moe to Mt. Hotham and down via Tawonga Gap to Wangaratta and from there via the Adelaide Hills to Belair and Stenhouse Bay. From there we went back to Moe via Kakadu, Kununurra, Marble Bar, Newman, Meekatharra, Kalgoorlie, Norseman, the Nullabor, Ceduna and Sea Lake. The whole trip was without problem, apart from the front drive shaft, until we got to within 115km of home when a transmission cooler hose ruptured which I reckon is when the damage was done. The fluid that came out was indistinguishable from new. I got both cooler pipes done properly and put nearly six litres of Transmax Z in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggin
It lasted a couple of hundred kilometres after the hose was replaced and the transmission refilled but then turned into a total basket case that needs rebuilding. I can get the rebuild done for a good price but that means I have to get the thing out which is something that fills me with dread. I'm pushing 70 and I most certainly am not big and strong...[tonguewink] If I get the car flat topped to the repairer and get them to remove and re-install it the price is nearly triple which is unaffordable for us.
Great time fitting the bilsteins to the front, rhs a breeze, jack up and let it drop, strut tower off in minutes, replace, all controlled. Then the drivers side and what I assume was the bracket for ACE was seemingly immovable so decided to do the spring removal way. Put the RHS on the arm and jacked it up. Bottle jack under the bump stop, pump and loose spring, then out with the shocker, new shocker back in and rebolt it all up.
Bit of fiddle with the EWP to sit it better and adjustment of the intercooler piping.
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Then suddenly wished I had a car ramp and get it up high. Fitted the diff guards and what would genuinely only minutes if the car was at standing height was just a lot of arms stretched out and fiddly nuts to get in place ready to tighten up. Still feeling good that we can see the trees in the forest now.
Coolant alarm and EWP controller all wired in, they are sitting high above the sunvisor on the A Pillar side, EGT and Boost gauges wire in along with an ignition on feed. Most of the other other stuff i.e. UHF etc. can wait.
SO then tomorrow fit last of the coolant hoses and turbo to manifold and oil feed and return lines, fill it up with engine oil, automatic oil and coolant.
Going to run a a coolant cleaning flush through the coolant system for a couple of hours before refreshing it with new coolant again. Pretty simple thing to do, run an active through the EWP and battery on charger. Should also get rid of any leaks before driving as well.
Now officially allowed to get excited.
Nice 😊.
I have ace also and find it easy to fit all shocks with the no jack, wheels on the ground method.
On the drivers side, just undo the 10mm nut holding the ace pipe bracket, push aside then the shock tower comes off.
