What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

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I believe that the bearing is a SKF UJ617 which is for a Dodge Ram, Ford expedition etc. that is what it looks like from USA ebay photos.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just a follow up. Today I tried the bearing on the yoke shaft that goes into it and it's too small to fit the shaft, so do not think you can turn down the outer race to fit into the dome of the dual Cardan.

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Unusual situation you found there.
Unusual in that the part number sounds like the same thing as the correct part for the DC bearing which can be a MOOG 617(google search).

I know this part fits coz I bought three of them. Why three? why not .. postage cost the same (went by weight) and the part itself wasn't overly expensive .. combined it was tho .. so got three.
Fit perfectly, and also listed for Rams and Fords(among others).

And considering the same numerical component of the respective part numbers, you'd assume it's just another manufacturers' version of the same bearing type!

If you search for "Spicer double cardan CV ball seat repair kit" .. they have a list of 'competitive interchange numbers' ... ie. their part number is 10018440 and lines up against a part number for this bearing as '617' (I assume is the Moog type).

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If you search for "Spicer double cardan CV ball seat repair kit" .. they have a list of 'competitive interchange numbers' ... ie. their part number is 10018440 and lines up against a part number for this bearing as '617' (I assume is the Moog type).

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I am not sure that the one supplied was the 617, as I was only going on its appearance which is much different from the D2 listed ball and seat. The 617 interchanges that I found were 45OU 708, 70081NG, and NAPA 021002061

I cannot accurately measure the diameters as I had to cut them to remove them but I can tell you that the thing was a coupleof thou too big as it would not go in even with a very strong press and rattle gun..

I am sure the one supplied is smaller in ID than the D2 listing as I tried it. The one supplied also has a caged bearing which the D2 does not have, although this is not definitive.
Regards PhilipA

Drove with dog to New Farm and tarted up their streetscape.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...39803a87a1.jpg

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Originally Posted by johnp38

I did away with the fuel cooler tacked to the manifold a long time ago. Blocked off the two 19mm radiator outlets and the return outlet from the oil cooler area and removed that pipe too. Fuel temp still runs cooler than water temp even on hot days. Pictures are many many posts back.

If you put thermostat in top hose just buy an inline thermostat housing like the one I have linked. I was too tight with the money and wasted time playing with wreckers bits, even though it works excellently temperature wise.

At the wreckers where I just scored a NNN ecu the vehicle I got it from had the factory trans cooler bypassed with a smaller square aftermarket unit in front of the car mounted to the condenser, next to aircon fan.

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Something similar with the V8 just noticed on youtube = Land Rover Discovery 2 Cooling System Modifications - YouTube

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Originally Posted by RRT

Something similar with the V8 just noticed on youtube = Land Rover Discovery 2 Cooling System Modifications - YouTube

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Yep there are a few of those threads on here. I did it to my 4.6 a few years ago and it made a huge difference. Seeing it always well under 100 and mostly under 90 degrees is very satisfying. Cheers

Finally got round to replacing the cat with a straight through downpipe. I've had the car, 2004 D2a Td5, for eighteen months but didn't want to rush things. EGR was removed within 2 weeks and bigger intercooler fitted in 2 months but never quite got round to the cat. Difference is really noticeable.

Got my fuel tank guard fitted, needed a little trim to fit with the tow bar, only 5mm of one edge, think that's it for body armour now, bring on the tracks!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2036f03852.jpg

Just some more observations on rebuilding the front shaft.I bought a shaft from a friend which had a destroyed middle UJ but the yoke was OK .
I mistakenly thought that the roller bearing part of the double cardan was at the back but NO it is behind the middle UJ.
It is very difficult to remove the middle UJ without dislodging the rollers from the double cardan inner part. In my case 2 dropped down through a hole in the bottom of the ball and could not be retrieved. So I had to find some more. So I cut apart the caged roller bearing from the new rebuild kit I had and fitted 2 of those although I do not know if they were the same size.

Thye are maybe a bit smaller but needs must. I fitted the shaft a couple of days ago and it is blissfully quiet. Some hints if anyone else is considering rebuilding.
1 be VERY careful removing the middle UJ or you WILL dislodge the rollers in the double cardan.
2 I will cut a trunnion off the dead UJ if I do it again so I can remove it. I will probably zip tie the yokes together so they cannot separate enough for the rollers to fall out.
3 When driving in the new double cardan ball fit a spacer so that the rollers stay in place as there is a hole in the bottom which some can fall into. A drill bit cut off a 12.5MM drill should do it.

Regards PhilipA

Oh and mark the driveshaft and double cardan yoke to make sure it remains in balance, which I forgot to do. Mine seems good up to 80Kmh but I haven't been to 100Kmh yet so maybe I got the 50/50 right.

When I did mine, all I did was leave the cardboard tube in the bearing to hold the needle rollers in place right until the very last moment before the pin was offered into the bearing.

That is, the MOOG bearings I got have a cardboard tube inside the bearing that holds the needles and spring in place.
Once the cardboard tube is removed, add an extra dab of grease to help them stay in place, even tho the bearing is greased up anyhow ... and hope to god that it's all good when it's driven home.

One other point of note is the rubber shroud/seal that helps to protect the centre bearing from dust and road grime. Be sure it's in good condition. If not, there is a part that seems to be viable as a replacement. Spicer SPI-2-86-418.

A few weeks ago, I replaced my 200tdi Defender's hand brake shoes and oil covered brake components resulting from a previously leaking transfer case seal (that had been replaced by the PO for roadworthy on sale and is still good). Even so, I did need to pull the spigot off the transfer case to replace stripped prop shaft bolts. Pretty easy job, so I penciled the Disco in for pretty much the same treatment as it's transfer case output shaft seal was shot and it's hand brake has been soaking in oil, too.

Figured it'd probably be even easier, but boy, was I wrong. Took four times the time to do thanks to a lot more unbolting of bits and horsing around with the additional fiddly stuff required. An especial note to self: replace the adjustment bolt BEFORE installing the shoes!

Anyway, it's all done now with one less oil leak and I don't need to turn the car off and leave it in gear at the boat ramp when launching anymore!