What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I tried to rebuild my front propshaft today.
Got the ball and outer out OK.
Went to fit the new ball and outer bearing.
Could not for the life of me get the new outer bearing in.
drifts , sockets and vice, socket and portable press, freezing bearing and heating yoke .
All were no go.
I finally measured the by now destroyed bearing outer and found it too big for the hole by only a little but that was enough..

I believe that the bearing is a SKF UJ617 which is for a Dodge Ram, Ford expedition etc. that is what it looks like from USA ebay photos.

The D2 outer that came out had a chamfer on the bottom, and a machined slot around the base and this matches ones sold in UK for a D2.

So beware if you are buying one off E bay or an Australian vendor. A new ball, outer bearing and seal are available ex UK for about $85.
Regards PhilipA

https://i.ibb.co/34CB5DK/photo-2022-10-01-18-49-52.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/z7rSNsq/photo-2022-10-01-18-55-21.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/n3rk2JS/photo-2022-10-01-18-49-54.jpg

About to pull the motor out..

TBH the cooling system is a joke how many joins do they need... wtf were they smoking when making this...

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

https://i.ibb.co/34CB5DK/photo-2022-10-01-18-49-52.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/z7rSNsq/photo-2022-10-01-18-55-21.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/n3rk2JS/photo-2022-10-01-18-49-54.jpg

About to pull the motor out..

TBH the cooling system is a joke how many joins do they need... wtf were they smoking when making this...

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[emoji1787][emoji1787] design engine to fit in bay...then as an afterthought work out how to plumb it[emoji1787][emoji106]

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

TBH the cooling system is a joke how many joins do they need... wtf were they smoking when making this...

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Post #8443, I simplified it

Should it have read "How many joints do you need..."

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Originally Posted by johnp38

Post #8443, I simplified it

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Thanks I will take a look, I was thinking what can I do to make this simple.

I wonder if the fuel heater/cooler thing is really needed. I thought I could at least get a non EU3 expansion tank to get rid of the EGR cooler coolant flow and pipes.

Then I was also thinking can I just do away with the factory g/box cooler get a aftermarket one mount it else where and install the Manual full size intercooler. Now to google if any one has made some pipe setup for the cooler lines or find a hose shop to make some thing.

Just returned from our first big post Covid trip in the D2.

4500 km round trip from Melb to Maryborough and Fraser Island - first time there and definitely going back!

Headed up via the Newell and returned via the New England hwy with some nice Nat parks and family outings.

Fuel use averaged 11.8 L/100km fully loaded with 2 Oztent bags on the roof. Not towing.

Only one minor hiccup with the D2 - wife was driving and heading up towards Stanthorpe power was down. I said keep driving as I plugged in the Nanocom. Could see boost was fluctuating so suspected a wastegate issue. Sure enough the small hose from turbo outlet to waste gate modulator had popped off. Back on with the correct spring clamp from my spares department and all good 😊.

Was earlier thinking of selling the D2 but it’s such a great simple heavy duty touring machine it’s not leaving our family!

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

Thanks I will take a look, I was thinking what can I do to make this simple.

I wonder if the fuel heater/cooler thing is really needed. I thought I could at least get a non EU3 expansion tank to get rid of the EGR cooler coolant flow and pipes.

Then I was also thinking can I just do away with the factory g/box cooler get a aftermarket one mount it else where and install the Manual full size intercooler. Now to google if any one has made some pipe setup for the cooler lines or find a hose shop to make some thing.

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Installed the Davies EWP and EWP Controller (which acts as your thermostat), at present have returned to the standard fan but have plans to go back to electric in the future.

Have a look at the pictures, the return to the top radiator hose has been removed (more about the internal heater than anything) and cut the rear of the front cooler pipe to fit the EWP next to the crossmember. This does not require the mechanical pump which I just removed the vanes of a new one and fitted the casing back.

Attachment 181175Attachment 181176

The upper hose on mine has two inserts as besides the temp probe for the EWP Controller, I also have low coolant alarm. The Temp probe essentially replaces the return hose from thermostat - cut it out and put the temp probe there.

Attachment 181177

There is shortening of the coolant pipe (after removing the return pipe) which was about six (6) inches worth. MUST NOTE - did install this at the radiator and it created all sorts of problems, in consultation with Davies Craig and the flow diagrams, the EWP must be installed in this position


Attachment 181180

This is the EWP attached to the modified coolant pipe, a silicon pipe was used with another pipe to the current waterpump housing

Attachment 181178

The hose from the radiator to the coolant pipe to allow for the extra length required is a magna top hose

Attachment 181181

Here is the EWP installed looking up towards the existing water pump housing.
Attachment 181179


With the standard Fan, I have the setting on the EWP Controller at 100C which gives me 100kph cruising temps in the mid 80'sC, low 90's at 115kph. It does take longer to 'warm' up but in WA should not be an issue. Could set the thermostat down to get greater cooling flow and maintain lower temps but with two trips to the desert and three to the Vic High Country this has worked very well after initially setting it at 92C




Can also recommend the RR P38 V8 oil cooler which requires just a little TEE bracket made and new fittings & Lines to the existing metal lines and then threaded R) angle connectors to the cooler itself

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Four Loko

Thanks I will take a look, I was thinking what can I do to make this simple.

I wonder if the fuel heater/cooler thing is really needed. I thought I could at least get a non EU3 expansion tank to get rid of the EGR cooler coolant flow and pipes.

Then I was also thinking can I just do away with the factory g/box cooler get a aftermarket one mount it else where and install the Manual full size intercooler. Now to google if any one has made some pipe setup for the cooler lines or find a hose shop to make some thing.

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I did away with the fuel cooler tacked to the manifold a long time ago. Blocked off the two 19mm radiator outlets and the return outlet from the oil cooler area and removed that pipe too. Fuel temp still runs cooler than water temp even on hot days. Pictures are many many posts back.

If you put thermostat in top hose just buy an inline thermostat housing like the one I have linked. I was too tight with the money and wasted time playing with wreckers bits, even though it works excellently temperature wise.

At the wreckers where I just scored a NNN ecu the vehicle I got it from had the factory trans cooler bypassed with a smaller square aftermarket unit in front of the car mounted to the condenser, next to aircon fan.

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I believe that the bearing is a SKF UJ617 which is for a Dodge Ram, Ford expedition etc. that is what it looks like from USA ebay photos.

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Just a follow up. Today I tried the bearing on the yoke shaft that goes into it and it's too small to fit the shaft, so do not think you can turn down the outer race to fit into the dome of the dual Cardan.

One good thing about the wrong bearing is that it is caged so all the bloody rollers do not fall out when you dismantle the UJs. A couple of mine fell down into the hole in the bottom so I had to find a couple which I cut out of the caged roller. What an epic with tweezers and an artist brush handle sorting and pushing rollers into position for what seemed hours and then finding a 12.5MM drill shank to push them into position..

Why couldn't the Poms have designed a caged bearing for Chissake.

I was able to buy from a mate a pretty new driveshaft with the forward UJ of the double cardan stuffed from the aircon drain but the yoke still OK, but it was a near thing.
So I now have 1 spare front driveshaft all set up ready to fit.

I am only doing this as there is a wonk wonk sound when the car is under load when towing up hills and harshness. I also noted that the rear double Cardan UJs seemed to have spat out most of their grease when I greased them. I bought this shaft second hand but pretty new Hardy Spicer but I think it is suspect.
I guess we shall see . What an epic.
I have the original shaft spare and now I am waiting for the Double Cardan ball and set to come from UK and I will build another one. I am getting better at it as practice makes perfect I guess.
Regards PhilipA