Feel for you brother! Worst job on the D2, my therapist says that I have to forget - Forget, FORGET she's got to be joking.
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After the effort to get the mechanicals stable (oil leaks now gone with tightening of the rocker cover) spent yesterday fitting an electrical board and watertank. Still waiting on the push-on fitting for the 12mm hose for the outlet. Would note that the biggest challenge was finding the fittings, 12mm for hoses tends to mean the internal measurement and not the external so your general hardware stores are next to useless.
The Camco tank (43 litre) fittings are 3/4" / 20mm BSP and are reasonably common, but for the domestic hose. So finally found a reducer from the 20mm to 15mm and then a 15mm thread with 12mm push fitting to fit this.
The tank rests nicely on the rear of the shelf.
Attachment 181594
The outlet is plumbed to the shoulder on the rear compartment, sits nicely. Am not using the switch on this by the way, this will be on the gangpanel below. Knowing this now, would have used a different tap with an extender, oh well.
Attachment 181595
Power board fitted above the compressor, still a lot of work to get the placements right.
Attachment 181596
The internals of the Air Controller, taking apart to fit the rear mounting fitting - had posted previously that the 240V input was removed and this runs on the 12 Volt supply with switching shared with the compressor.
Attachment 181597
The rear with the tap, water level, Air Controller and gangpanel
Attachment 181598
The three way gang panel fits beautifully in the space by the way, comes wired and ready - Nilight 90017C 3 Gang Aluminum Panel Toggle Dash 5 Pin On/Off Pre-Wired Rocker Switch Holder for Automotive Car Marine Boat, 2 Years Warranty : Amazon.com.au: Automotive
If isn't one thing, it's something else...
Went down the street to get milk - about 3km. Halfway back a horrible rattling started so in the pouring rain I had a look under the car and lo and behold the front muffler is rattling against the chassis. Drove home, had breakfast and much coffee and went to have a proper look.
My first suspicion was engine mounts but they look to be OK. The gearbox mounts on the other hand.....The right side looks a bit saggy but OK-ish. The left side is broken so now I know what I'm doing over the weekend, provided the new (genuine) gearbox mounts get here in time. I'm hoping for two things. Dry weather and a job that doesn't turn into a Homeresque epic.
I have a 3300k trip to make to Perth to see Dr in early December and it has to be 3 day trip so needs it to go well, so just checking the D2 over in preparation.
Check transfer case levels (because it has a drip even after they rebuilt it), check diff levels, then thought I'd grease the drive shafts.
Looks OK and grease seems to be working through. For some reason I decide that I will put a little more into the front shaft front uni as I reckoned the gun might have run out.
As I am looking about for the nipple I can see the needle rollers from one end of the uni. It hasn't made any noise or vibration, but I have only been doing short runs of late.
The needle rollers are clearly visible and dry as the proverbial appendage of the deceased dingo.
Fortunately, I just happen to have a spare complete new front shaft, which will be changed over tomorrow.
I am just imagining what the effect might have been had the front uni destructed and turned the front shaft into a giant nunchuck thrashing its way through trans, sump (who knows what) as I am in the middle of nowhere.
So, I am feeling VERY lucky.
Swapped out drive shaft.
VERY lucky, might not have gone more than a few k's further. Attachment 181680Attachment 181681Attachment 181682
Replaced the drivers door latch with secondhand part. Forgot that the star drive screws in the door frame must go back in a particular place; short to the back and long to the front. Made the same mistake when changing the window regulator a few years ago.
Next, will pull the faulty latch apart to replace the drive motor. It has me stumped how do that for now.
Mine went for a swim today, well it felt like it anyway, in the suburbs mind you not near some river crossing water deluged bridge where you would expect it but at a double lane roundabout.
Misjudged the depth as I looked at the cars in the right lane with water up the middle of their wheels and forgot how much camber the road had so took the left lane that everyone had cleverly avoided (waiting for a sucker to drown their car) to find that I had a sudden slow down and had to push through like a barge for 30 metres. Luckily as I got to the front there was a break in the traffic and I was able to enter the roundabout (which was a lot higher and clear of water) without stopping or I think I would have stalled as it was missing from halfway through my attempt until about 100 metres past the roundabout then ran smooth again.
I am not sure what caused it to play up as everyone on youtube has landys that go in way deeper for way longer but guess some silicon sealant in the right wiring places would help.
I only have it for towing as any car can go on the gravel roads I occasionally end up on so quite a surprise to do a (small) lake crossing in suburbia !
No dash cam unfortunately as it was a situation really in need of a video to do it justice. The water was easily over the footpath by at least a foot as I was looking at the tubular steel fence that runs alongside the skate rink to see how high up the fence it was.
Any known bits of wiring that hang down that need re routing before I get caught out again?
Today my D2 received a new coolant expansion tank from Andrew Graham at Allisport, I chose the plain finish with coolant level sensor, and from order confirmation to delivery to my door …..just 8 days!