Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by shack

It's odd that it still had water/coolant, I've never seen one get that hot without blowing it all out, although it's usually a head gasket that has caused it.

The ECU will cut power when the engine gets to a certain temp, so that's what that is about, I can't remember what the temp is, but from memory it's a scaled reduction in IQ amounts... So not sure why it would only idle, might be a setting I'm not aware of, which is entirely possible.

You might be in strife from the temp though unfortunately.

Its an interesting one. I wondered if it was either a faulty thermostat or temp sender. I'm pretty sure they're both original fitment. It didn't drop any water, the bottle is still loaded. The head is an AMC head from not too long ago also.

The idle was interesting, I think you're on the money with the scaled reduction in power, and I just assumed that when it went to hot (or just under) that it didn't allow throttle.

Just another thing... I hope it isn't expensive again.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Do you know if they have done the 8hp to Lt230 adaptor, stand alone controller, mounts, shift hardware, etc?



The Gauge normally won't move above 1/2 way until 120 degrees

Normally they will lose power as fuelling is reduced but not idle only, if it has indeed overheated the A/C fan will be on with ignition even without the compressor running

Was the overflow venting when you opened the bonnet?

What fault codes are there?

There are a couple of 6/8HP to LT230 adaptors around. Mainly out of the UK.

It did feel like it went doughy when the need came up above half too. The AC fan did come on even with the AC off and the engine also off. However it didn't drop any coolant at all.

Fault codes! The Disco is at work, I'll take my Nanocom in tomorrow and see if anything comes up. I didn't think to check that.

Thanks!

viscous fan or maybe radiator is a bit old.

I changed the rad in the TD5 early in the year, and temps have definitely dropped and run more stable.
Still a bit hard to properly gauge it, as we haven't had many really hot days where A/C is used.

Old rad didn't look bad in any way, and was only changed because the inlet pipe looked like it was half sawn off, so just looked dodgy(ie. in a long term sense) .. so as I was doing a lot of rejigging on the front end of the D2(mainly reinstalling nuts and bolts that a previous owner thought too hard to install .. it was half loose. Had all the front apart, so was a good time to fit a new rad.

With the old rad with A/C on, I'd see up to nearly 100°C on the nanocom in instrument mode, and regularly up to the high 90's without AC on.
With the new rad, max running temps has been in the mid 80's to maybe 88 that I've noticed so far.
Last weekend saw a couple of days in the low 30's for the first time in a very long time, AC on .. temp on the nanocom maxed at 88.8. So I reckon the new rad to replace a seemingly good rad seems to have done the trick so far.

Like discorevy said, for the needle to move off normal range and close to the red, you'd have probably got up to about the 120°C mark in the coolant, maybe even more than that.

I'd suspect the rad and or fan before the thermostat, only because I've never had (myself) an intermittently dodgy thermostat.
With respect to radiators and/or fans, tho, I've had these sometimes on, sometimes off cooling worries in various vehicles over the years(not only in Rover vehicles).

I'd advise to run the nanocom in instrument mode for a while to watch where the coolant temps run during various situations too. Long uphills with AC on, on a hot day is a good test.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

There are a couple of 6/8HP to LT230 adaptors around. Mainly out of the UK.

It did feel like it went doughy when the need came up above half too. The AC fan did come on even with the AC off and the engine also off. However it didn't drop any coolant at all.

Fault codes! The Disco is at work, I'll take my Nanocom in tomorrow and see if anything comes up. I didn't think to check that.

Thanks!

The only time I've seen the TD5 overheat when still full of coolant other than a failed viscous fan, was with a water pump that had no impellor blades left, but yes, as you say, there's also a possibility of a closed thermostat.

Check the coolant is also at the top hose bleeder when you check the codes tomorrow.

Thanks for the info on the adapter. Do you know of anyone anywhere that has done this conversion?

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Have they managed to control the 8HP behind the Td5 yet? Hopefully the development work is done before you get to it.

The controller I am looking at is a HTG - HTG tuning – Next level MOTORSPORT innovations. - It also enables the use of the BMW shifter with the tiptronic function. There are quite a few vids out there with the controller connected to a variety of vehicles including a Defender with the BMW engine, that thing is an absolute weapon = Defender M57 8HP - drive in the wet - YouTube -

The ad mentions a facebook page, but as FB took me off the platform I am unable to see it as I also use a VPN!

The 8HP is probably one of the most made of any transmissions and available in a variety of torque capabilities up to about 750nm.

Redid the electrics again in the back, getting the compressor connected to the main battery not the lithium which did not work very well as it kept cutting out and the fitting of the watertank
Relocated the DC TO DC and wiring in of the power to the compressor
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Watertank with the level gauge fitted
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Very smick looking electrics. With the water tank are those just wood screws into the MDF? I'd be worried they won't restrain the tank in the event of a crash or high speed maneuvers.

Originally Posted by admiralranga

Very smick looking electrics. With the water tank are those just wood screws into the MDF? I'd be worried they won't restrain the tank in the event of a crash or high speed maneuvers.

20mm screws and yes we did have a good pull on the tank just to make sure it will hold, two blokes one either side and it moved only fractionally. Although have removed the double seat the single seat will also be up in use. The double seat area is going to have a welded structure in there as well, bolted in, so pretty confident it will be held. Not likely to take 40 litres for a weekend but as always it is nice to have the capacity for longer trips.

It is a funny thing, with the RTT and 100 litre vertical fridge, it frees up so much space and as I am currently designing the rear structures it is funny working out how much space do I actually need? The bottom drawer is roughly 70 cm wide and goes all the way to the back seat . The top drawer shown probably wont be used, but am building a two tier structure which will have the top shelf level with the freezer compartment and the oven will be up on there. The RRT has the bedding, few clothes and pillows in there so this bulky stuff is not required inside.

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Most tools are in a backpack which along with the recovery gear, wheel inflator spider, exhaust lifter, chain saw and other stuff such as spare airbag and other parts as well as, oils and fluids all in the two seat space. The idea is to have the chairs and ladder in the area as well.

So the rear area is going to store what??? Canned or dry foods and a couple of pans etc sure, area for a jerry can or two if I go on longer trips. How much extra stuff do we take that we really really don't need?