What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Good point.

I tried welding it first but failed big time then simply tek screwed it solid from the engine facing side (this was a few months back) and other day put it on the drill press I acquired recently and drilled it all the way thru and bolted for better strength.

Have been checking regularly since I put the teks in but not with it coming loose in mind, not considered that at all.

But after this long I guess I am safe, also if it has been loosening I spose the starting and running of the engine could be tightening it up too?

Just ordered Ashcroft's HD torque converter adaptor kit for a V8 converter, also new transfer case seals, eBay is supplying new gearbox mounts, rear seal and sump gasket. Now just have to wait for the trans to be ready (been nearly 6 weeks) I'll also get a new front drive shaft from Hardy Spicer and hopefully that will be all that needs to be spent on it for a while....

Cheers
Redd

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Originally Posted by Reddirt204

Just ordered Ashcroft's HD torque converter adaptor kit for a V8 converter, also new transfer case seals, eBay is supplying new gearbox mounts, rear seal and sump gasket. Now just have to wait for the trans to be ready (been nearly 6 weeks) I'll also get a new front drive shaft from Hardy Spicer and hopefully that will be all that needs to be spent on it for a while....&lt;br&gt;<br>
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Cheers&lt;br&gt;<br>
Redd

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Money well spent, after some more driving I can see why the suggestion is to get a tune to go with the V8 converter, even though the lockup is at 22-2300 and the Td5 has 80% torque at 1800 rpm, the slight extra off idle to start of boost drag, when taking off at the lights to keep up with other lead foots slows the car a fraction from idle to 1800 then it takes off ( i.e. it magnifies the pause before boost) . The original Td5 slippery converter locking at 2800 lets the motor rev off idle quicker with less drag in those un boosted lower revs.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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Having said that I am still on stock tune and driving great as is.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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I would definitely do the V8 converter upgrade before a tune if I had to pick between the two (preferably both at same time), now that I have experienced the difference, then a tune , then you grow up to big boy status with VNT/tune.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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&lt;img src="https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=183783&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="183783" alt="" id="vbattach_183783" class="previewthumb"&gt; So a quick dash to Repco late yesty and got in just as they were shutting to grab a Hardy Spicer uni for the diff end of my front tailshaft. But got wrong locknuts as I forgot to grab a bolt to take with me.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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Got a 20 tonne press last year after thinking about it for decades and life is more pleasant not hammering things or trying to use the vice horizontally. I delayed because I have not needed daily or weekly use and also bought a very used pedestal drill press which I repaired and of course I now use them regularly don't I? Isn't it the way with tools eh?&lt;br&gt;<br>
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Back to Repco this morning with sample (also to get refund for wrong nuts) and was surprised my metric vehicle has 3/8 UNF on the tailshafts. Then of course screwed up by grabbing non locking nuts and opening the packet (oops no refund this time) when I excitedly got home to finish the job, duh.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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So off to AutoPro as they are round the corner (they don't stock the uni hence Repco trip) for lock nuts and will put shaft back in later today.&lt;br&gt;<br>
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It was a pleasure to drive around with the front shaft removed and my diff not whining like a cut cat. But if I leave it off it will be a while before I can do the diff and I bet I will suddenly end up needing front traction coz murphy says so.

Bit of happiness today, heading away next weekend to the VHC, starting off at Grannies Flat, then Frys and finishing off at Bluff Hut, nice. Call made, finish off the back and do snorkel later (low water levels and not really featuring this weekend.

First had to change out the fuse on the battery for the rear, compressor got the tyres to 30 psi and stopped, simple. Then what to do with the design for the back. Kept it pretty simple, just a couple of shelves and relocate the water tank two inches, yes two inches, the position of the level input was just in the wrong place.

From this
Attachment 183956

To this ( the second drawer fits beautifully where the back seat was and holds the recovery gear, gas bottle, exhaust jack and other odds and ends).

Attachment 183955

Attachment 183954


Attachment 183953

Attachment 183952

Shelf in place and the Oven up nice and high, can easily see the temp and timer...
Attachment 183951

Fridge back in
Attachment 183957

Now to find a box to fit on the lower shelf and make a shelf for the second position.

Well, what a weekend... Three blow offs of the intercooler pipes on my up there, second to fix I took all three pipes off and rearranged them, the third time, directly off the inlet to the intercooler and thought I had lost the clamp so put two wire çable ties on to get to the camp at Grannies Flat, they survived at least.

What was sort of interesting is that the cruise control got overly aggressive and constantly rising EGT, got to 750C at one stage, even when checking the pipes couldn't find a leak (one of the problems of an electronic throttles, cant rev up whilst looking at the engine) and thought it must be something to do with the old K&M Filter that i put in as an interim measure before the new Mahn ones came, just forget to change it over.

Nope got accelerating back on the Hume and Phwwwt off the pipe came proper, fixed (lucky I fill up the 40 litres, had to use a lot of it to cool the pipes as it turned out) and then about 20 minutes later, EGT's starting rising and the turbo boost all over the shop. When I change over the Filter to the GU patrol style, this is also going to be redone to ensure some semblance of reliability.

The air filter seems to have a big say in the EGT's, with the Mahn never had an issue of going of low 600's, where as this weekend it was easily possible to exceed. The K&N is now off to landfill.

Then I got lucky and blew the drivers side SLS bag, dropped into a hole after the whoopsie daisy's , did have a brand new spare but up on the trials is not a great place to work on it. Got to use the exhaust jack for the first time, well it punctured!

So take two, a bottle jack and a log and piece of wood got it safe and secure. It really is a simple fit, just a bit fiddly up the top with the clips and air pipe but once we got it secured it was less than 20 minutes. The sensor connection also came adrift and may have broken a wire so subsequently have the three amigos.

Just to make it all a little bit special, Alternator light came on and did not go off. Turns out I am getting 13.6V charge so no need for panic, just a laugh. My dash board was colourful Saturday and today.

The returning issue of the rocker cover coming loose, once again smoke in the cabin from cooking oil once the temps got to 95C, just a little wafting out for about 10 minutes at a time. Going to bite the bullet and buy a complete set with the rubber grommets along with a new gasket.

The driving though was great, camped at Grannies, only 5 not the expected 10 so decided to do a bit more than originally planned. Up Mitchells and it was step long and loose, just fantastic, the ATB's could really be felt working, just a constant light throttle and it squirmed up the tougher sections. Too much throttle had all wheels spinning.

Then it only got better,

We were in VHC also. Short trip from Myrtelford to climb Mt Cobbler.

Drove into the camp at Lake Cobbler via the Abbeyard-Cobbler track which is extremely fun. See pic - it follows the ridge lines up and down with some very steep hills. CDL and traction control very necessary! And manual mode in 1st gear with HDC on for a couple of descents with loose rock worked very well.

2 Hr walk up to the summit of Mt Cobbler is so worth it with views of the whole Mt Buller / Bluff / Mt Speculation etc.

PS saw three! D2s coming in on the Cobbler Rd on Sat arvo in a dusty convoy, as we were leaving!

PPS - no car issues at all. The D2 keeps delivering. 😊

Heard a brief funny noise just as I was pulling into work so checked the engine bay before I drove home. Turns out my harmonic balancer is now permanently 2 part, the removable bit had the ears it bolts to snap off. Got very luck only other damage is to the fan. Hopefully can remove the bolt turning the engine over with the starter cos I can't bolt the tool to the harmonic balancer to stop the crankshaft just turning, the unpleasant alternative being removing the radiator and intercooler so I can get a big impact on it.

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Originally Posted by admiralranga

Heard a brief funny noise just as I was pulling into work so checked the engine bay before I drove home. Turns out my harmonic balancer is now permanently 2 part, the removable bit had the ears it bolts to snap off. Got very luck only other damage is to the fan. Hopefully can remove the bolt turning the engine over with the starter cos I can't bolt the tool to the harmonic balancer to stop the crankshaft just turning, the unpleasant alternative being removing the radiator and intercooler so I can get a big impact on it.

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How sloppy is the drive belt pulley?

Would it have been wobbling enough to be slapping the front weight and cause fatigue on the ears?

I think I read somewhere that is what tends to cause them falling apart but can't remember accurately enough.

Mine is slightly wobbly but quite a way from touching the front weight so keen to find out (the easy way) if I can leave it alone until it gets too close for comfort to the front weight or replace asap.

Anyone wanna chime in?

To remove the centre bolt you can lock the engine with a bolt at the rear through the bell housing.

There is a threaded hole in the bell housing. If you get the correct bolt, grind the end to a point and there is a slot in the plate that has the ring gear.

Turn engine till slot lines up with hole and screw the bolt. This can then be used to hold the crank for refitting as bolt tension is 460 NM (340 foot pound)

Make sure you get a new bolt, it is a single use bolt.

The rubber wasn't wobbly from memory but I did have an issue where the 3 bolts came loose and I didn't hear till I pulled over. Suspect it might be damage from then but did have a good look at the time. I do like the idea of using the timing lock pin more than using the starter.