Reply With QuoteYes I used arb lube, I can’t stand not using genuine or upgraded parts anymore especially on head gaskets do the job once and properly
Master
SupporterI think my version and your version of cheap are dollars apartOriginally Posted by Kaaaiju
IMG_20230621_205543.jpg IMG_20230621_205552.jpg
Glad I only paid 50 for that eurospares head gasket, they are 12 pound gaskets in uk, guess that's what <B> means, don't think you could get much cheaper, it got here today and it feels heavier than the elring one i put in, surprisingly looks very well made too, will know more once it is in service.
IMG_20230620_102835.jpg IMG_20230620_103229.jpg IMG_20230620_103241.jpg
The bolts have no markings on the head so no idea who the real manufacturer is but they do come with a 2 year 40,000 km warranty. I will be installing them with audio/visual proof (so knuckle skinning swear words included) that they were ft lbs torqued and angle turned correctly just to make sure I have some comeback if they lose tension.
IMG_20230620_140324.jpg This is what was on the head of the bolts that came with the vehicle, the KX is a german manufacturer, they weigh 212 grams each and have a nicer finish than the Kelpro (which weigh 210 grams each)
I found an interesting bit of data on Amazon
Ajusa 10154420 Gasket cylinder head : Amazon.com.au: Automotive
22 ft lbs
47 ft lbs
- 90 degrees (yep, that's a lefty loosey)
47 ft lbs
+ 90 degrees
+ 90 degrees
+ 90 degrees
+ 45 degrees
So they crush the head gasket, take tension off, retorque to ft lbs, then start angles again with the 180 split into 2 x 90 pulls
Are you still using studs or back to bolts?
I am wondering did you put the ARP ultra lube on bolt threads as well when you were using AMC bolts?
I have decided to order some ultra lube on ebay and hold off till it arrives b4 I start any spannering. Can't seem to find it on the shelf here in adelaide.
Master
SubscriberYes I used arb lube, I can’t stand not using genuine or upgraded parts anymore especially on head gaskets do the job once and properly
Master
SupporterIMG_20230623_121855.jpgBonus free sticker, the ARP lube will be the only performance thing in the car, but the person following won't know that!
IMG_20230623_215558.jpg Did the minimum disconnecting last night and took it off, was so lazy I put the airline in the water outlet and blew the coolant out the top radiator fitting.
IMG_20230623_215646.jpg IMG_20230623_215751.jpg IMG_20230623_215809.jpg Best I could do with the phone last night, I had taken the head off without TDCentering number 1 (coz I forgot but no biggie) so it was down in the bore unlike the last time the head was off, found a nasty vertical line where it shouldn't be.
The rest of the bores aren't too flash either but they were no different last time I had the head off, just couldn't see No. 1 bore then.
Has been running fine and no overheating , just last couple months when water started going awol and I realized the head bolts had stretched.
Won't be touching the block, it's done 460 + thousand and it is obvious it will have to have a rebore and new pistons if I want it done right, I need the car running, so back together it goes tomorrow and then I will have to look for another bottom end with less mileage that I can chuck a set of rings and bearings in or just chuck straight in the car as is.
Master
SupporterFollowup
No it didn't so pulled it apart and replaced head gasket and bolts.
Went for a spin and gurgling started reducing (not attempted to bleed air out), only did about 20 km so far so too early to tell.
I can't get it to heat up still unless I am on highway at 110. Heater works good even when nano is only showing 40 celsius, gurgling notwithstanding.
Work in progress.
YarnMaster
SubscriberNot exactly today, but drove to Bright on Thursday, Drove up to Dinner Plain on Friday. We had to put chains on to get into Mt Hotham. As usual absolutely no need for chains! Drove back down in the dark, much, much more snow on the road, chains only for 2wd! The coilkdest we saw.
minus 1.jpg
My mate in a Fortuner complained that his car skittered on the snow. The D2 was rock solid, did not even notice the snow.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Master
SubscriberNot today but over the weekend, finally got the Red rig back on the road
Back at the end of November the Carden shaft let go and took the back of the trans off...... and after much stuffing around, businesses closing and picking up a cheap donor it's now back on the road. The donor can engineless but had a straight through exhaust system so that got fitted as well...
A couple of things I have found with a straight through system, you can hear the turbo whistle (so can everyone else...) and has a very nice tone to it, the down side though is you notice how badly the motor drives through the convertor (I do have a V8 convertor but didn't have time to fit it) so that will be the next job later in the year, along with new cooler lines as they current ones are weeping around the crimps.
But, all in all, very happy to have the D2 back on the road
cheers
Redd
LordRover
SubscriberGood news.
Fix the hoses sooner rather than later...... ask me how I know.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
SubscriberTins, yep, they are on the new list of things to do....
From the donor I now have a spare trans cooler so am looking at getting some AN fittings welded on and doing away with the special Landy ones, from there I will change over to proper hydraulic hose and high pressure fittings back to the trans. I think this will be a much better long term fix and will work out to be about the same cost as replacing the 2 original steel lines
cheers
Redd
Swaggie
SubscriberYes the originals only last about 20 years, so must be rubbish.I think this will be a much better long term fix and will work out to be about the same cost as replacing the 2 original steel lines
Regards PhilipA
Master
SubscriberNot saying they are rubbish, but they are 20 years old so do need replacing. Finding some replacement parts is getting harder all the time so my thinking if I can change them to a common style of fitting that is bullet proof for the same cost as genuine I'd be sill not to. Also the crimp fitting is a common failure point so the more I can eliminate the better (again, just my thinking)
cheers
Redd
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