Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by AK83

Yep! .. I know. I've now seen it in person.
How they lasted for this many years whilst bro has owner her and god only knows what the previous owners had done .. I'm amazed.




Oh, that makes one of us then ..
Strangely no pain .. just like a 4" nail out of a nail gun into the other index finger(years ago).

The problem was the blood .. gushing like a monty python sketch.
It stopped bleeding last night/this morning and I changed the bandaids. Got around to do it cleanly, but then went out to do the engine mounts on the TD5, and started on the LHS top bolt, and I could feel it pop again.
Bandaid all red again .. arrgghh.
Had to abandon the engine mounts for now till it stops bleeding.

I can stitch it for you, if you want.

Today's little surprise is that the starter motor appears to have died of fright. Not a job I look forward to.

Today's little surprise is that the starter motor appears to have died of fright. Not a job I look forward to.

Most likely just the contacts in the solenoid.
Max 1 hour( once you have the starter off LOL)
Regards PhilipA

well .. king kong and supermans offspring must have tightened the chassis side of the engine mount nuts/bolts.

Yesterday I tried by breaker bar to undo, seeing the flex in the bar + the feeling of gushing blood under a couple of bandaids ... I chickened out.

Today ... full send mode with the rattle gun .. no way they were budging. All four.
Top nuts came off relatively easily with the rattle gun.
I see many folks go sideway with the extension bar on the LHS top nut. But with a torque tube, they're slim enough to fit between turbo and oil feel line .. easier.

Anyhow, couldn't get the chassis nuts bolts undone, so did up the top nuts and packed it all away.
Then of course I remembered much later I have a air dack dack too ..
(maybe tomorrow again)

Anyhow .. spent all day modifying the winch relay-control box. What was left of it. 90% rust, 10% winch controlling stuff.
Got myself a sealed plastic box from jaycar, cleaned out innards of control box .. and spend most of the day thinking up a more hidden .. and fixed! .. position for it .. within and under the bar.

I should have got photos, but again previous super-gorilla-man owner .. or mechanic/mates did a job on that too. Control box just sitting loosely on the top of the bar, in front of the grille.
The bracket for it, never looked like it could be mounted to anywhere on the vehicle/bar. I think grille had been cracked due to it's flapping about for so long.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Max 1 hour( once you have the starter off LOL)

That's the bit I don't like... Easier to change an angry bear's nappy imo. And, yes, I have a full complement of wobble bars etc... Next week. At least the OKA won't have any issue pulling the thing up onto the ramps.

Originally Posted by Bohica

I want!
As mine maxes at 96C and the temp is on ok. I'd love to have 98C at the top of the range.

Disco 2 factory.jpg This is the way it is set up from factory, because it starts from -70 Celsius to 133 C and the percentages they have put in you only get the 3 positions.The gauge does not move linear in relation to the percentages either, so 0 percent, 50 percent and 100 % is not quite where you think it would sit.


Disco 2 modded.jpg After some reading on discotd5.com I learnt how to change the temperature readings in the header as you can't just click in and change the figure.

I then changed to the temps to readings that suited me.

The percentages are all done by trial, put in a percentage, run out and plug chip in, see where it sits, not where I want it, unplug, back inside reprogramme rinse and repeat. Always chance of damaging pins on chip or socket so had spares on hand. However if I was working with a NNN ecu not much quicker due to the minutes of thumb twiddling as Nanocom backs up/uploads even though no need to physically handle the ecu.

There is some other stuff involved like how to fool the ECU that it is reading the various temps when the car is not running but this is not the tech section.

I am using Tunerpro RT which is free, the XDF files which are needed to show the data in human friendly (non geek) tables are on Offtracks discotd5.com site and can be accessed by receiving a password via email and logging in after making a small donation.

This also enables you to do your own mucking around with fuel tables which is not complicated at all, and you can just load up your original backed up file if you suddenly turn your car into a black smoke belching machine.

You will still need the experienced tuners like Shack and others to sort out the weird niggles (like using oversensitive V8 auto controllers on the td5 !! ) or making fuel tunes for different turbos and other mods etc. but on the whole the basic fuel tuning mods on stock motors anyone can do themselves.

You can PM me if you want these changes done for the temp gauge, no charge, I am an inquisitive owner not a tuner.

Originally Posted by johnp38

Disco 2 factory.jpg This is the way it is set up from factory, because it starts from -70 Celsius to 133 C and the percentages they have put in you only get the 3 positions.The gauge does not move linear in relation to the percentages either, so 0 percent, 50 percent and 100 % is not quite where you think it would sit.


Disco 2 modded.jpg After some reading on discotd5.com I learnt how to change the temperature readings in the header as you can't just click in and change the figure.

I then changed to the temps to readings that suited me.

The percentages are all done by trial, put in a percentage, run out and plug chip in, see where it sits, not where I want it, unplug, back inside reprogramme rinse and repeat. Always chance of damaging pins on chip or socket so had spares on hand. However if I was working with a NNN ecu not much quicker due to the minutes of thumb twiddling as Nanocom backs up/uploads even though no need to physically handle the ecu.

There is some other stuff involved like how to fool the ECU that it is reading the various temps when the car is not running but this is not the tech section.

I am using Tunerpro RT which is free, the XDF files which are needed to show the data in human friendly (non geek) tables are on Offtracks discotd5.com site and can be accessed by receiving a password via email and logging in after making a small donation.

This also enables you to do your own mucking around with fuel tables which is not complicated at all, and you can just load up your original backed up file if you suddenly turn your car into a black smoke belching machine.

You will still need the experienced tuners like Shack and others to sort out the weird niggles (like using oversensitive V8 auto controllers on the td5 !! ) or making fuel tunes for different turbos and other mods etc. but on the whole the basic fuel tuning mods on stock motors anyone can do themselves.

You can PM me if you want these changes done for the temp gauge, no charge, I am an inquisitive owner not a tuner.

Wow thanks, I'll get the software. I guess I have the NNN ecu, I have a 2003 facelift disco.

Originally Posted by Bohica

Wow thanks, I'll get the software. I guess I have the NNN ecu, I have a 2003 facelift disco.

Pretty sure all D2as have that, but it's printed on the sticker on the ECU.