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Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

  1. #7881
    Join Date
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    Hi RRT,
    ....the boost controller is connected correctly but it would not be the ideal place from which to measure boost pressure - and I think that is what you might be referring to. I had experience with the type of boost controller you have and I found that it's adjustment range allowed for only 4 > 6psi increase in Gauge boost pressure and rightly or wrongly I was also suspicious of the effect the restrictor hose nipple had in the operation of the controller. Anyway a 4 > 6psi increase is usually adequate for the street car fan boys, which is the sales market where most of these controllers end up, but it fell short of my expectations. I ended up giving it to my son's petrol head mate - and he was stoked. I was aware of DIY boost controllers that were made from pneumatic fittings and rather than make one I purchased the local "ready made" Turbotech branded version from SIMARK Industries P/L and it delivered results that exceeded my expectations. Yes!.... I've explored it's full range but have it adjusted to deliver a sensible max boost gauge pressure of 24 > 26psi which allows me to keep up with the modern traffic stream.

    PS: SIMARK Industries are no longer trading as of March 2021
    Last edited by onebob; 28th December 2021 at 12:25 PM. Reason: extra information
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  2. #7882
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Just replaced the watts link with the good one from the spare.
    Clunk now gone. Hard to imagine that 1mm play in one of the 5 bushes can cause such a racket.

    Went for a short test drive over known roads, and rear still feel a little gooey.
    I'll go back outside and see if I have any energy remaining to remove the anti roll bars out of the spare, and maybe fit them to the TD5.

    (Been under the weather last couple of days .. skipped work. Not too bad today, just no energy to put any effort into things).
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #7883
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
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    Well, it's not always oil grease and skinned knuckles.

    IMG_20211227_155555.jpg

    IMG_20211227_155712.jpg

    IMG_20211227_155906.jpg

    IMG_20211227_160211.jpg

    IMG_20211227_160306.jpg

    I was fortunate enough to end up with a socketed MSB unit so can muck around on a whim.

    It had an old method stage 1 tune which was quite basic and after loading a factory tune I couldn't really tell much of a difference.

    Not as simple as uploading via OBD port with Nano but I can not 'brick' it either as I can pop my 'misteak' out and put the standard tuned chip back in.

    Have changed the temp gauge parameters so instead of cold medium and ' you're in big trouble ' it goes from

    0 Celsius.jpg 0 celsius

    35 Celsius.jpg 35

    85 Celsius.jpg 85

    98 Celsius.jpg 98

    110 Celsius.jpg 110

    130 Celsius.jpg Oh ****

    Early days and lot's of learning to go, but this way I have some indication of what's going on rather than the 3 jumps from cold to centre to in the red.

  4. #7884
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    Nice one John

  5. #7885
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    Well, it's not always oil grease and skinned knuckles .......

    I wish mine only needed software repairs.

    My D2 came as is, and a previous owner had removed the sway bars, obviously chasing for more flex, but the incompetents never replaced the brake lines .. did they!
    Earlier, I replaced the watts link .. easy job when car is lifted(roughly 2") as I didn't need to lift the body to remove the long central bolt. It slid right under the tank as it sat on the concrete. When it came off the spare, I had to hoick the body up a touch, on dodgy soft grass mind you .. but it all came out easy enough.
    Came in, had a drink or 10(water, as I'm currently a bit flu-ish) .. opened AULRO ... chilled.

    Then went back to attack the sway bars on the spare. Front links won't come off, no worries, just remove the bar, get new links.
    Plan of attack on the rear was going to be the same, if links gave grief(which they did).
    Out comes the grinder! Cut links off. easier to remove them off the bar when it's out from under the body.
    But, I then found that I'd cable tied the tailshaft to the link. Couldn't think of why at first, but two nuts still attached. Someone previous had rounded the nuts, and wouldn't come off easily .. then I remembered.
    Need to hack those two nuts off. Grinder was there ... may as well get that out of the way too.

    ... should have stayed on the PC.
    Bleeding 'ell! .. nearly cut my index finger off. As I was lowering the grinder, hand slipped off the steady bar with my left hand, and top of index finger into the spinning cuttoff disk!
    Took longer to stop the bleeding, than to cut the two sway bar links to finish up for the day.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #7886
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    Well, it's not always oil grease and skinned knuckles.


    Early days and lot's of learning to go, but this way I have some indication of what's going on rather than the 3 jumps from cold to centre to in the red.
    I want!
    As mine maxes at 96C and the temp is on ok. I'd love to have 98C at the top of the range.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #7887
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    My D2 came as is, and a previous owner had removed the sway bars, obviously chasing for more flex, but the incompetents never replaced the brake lines .. did they!
    They stretch, dontchya know...

    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    ... should have stayed on the PC.
    Bleeding 'ell! .. nearly cut my index finger off. As I was lowering the grinder, hand slipped off the steady bar with my left hand, and top of index finger into the spinning cuttoff disk!
    Took longer to stop the bleeding, than to cut the two sway bar links to finish up for the day.
    Ouch! I feel your pain...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #7888
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Bleeding 'ell! .. nearly cut my index finger off. As I was lowering the grinder, hand slipped off the steady bar with my left hand, and top of index finger into the spinning cuttoff disk!
    Took longer to stop the bleeding, than to cut the two sway bar links to finish up for the day.
    Feel your pain What happened to your Discovery 2 today?What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

  9. #7889
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Bleeding 'ell! .. nearly cut my index finger off. As I was lowering the grinder, hand slipped off the steady bar with my left hand, and top of index finger into the spinning cuttoff disk!
    Took longer to stop the bleeding, than to cut the two sway bar links to finish up for the day.
    Arthur, you should have been wearing a yellow shirt and hardhat. No injuries can be sustained when wearing PPE, apparently.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  10. #7890
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    They stretch, dontchya know...
    Yep! .. I know. I've now seen it in person.
    How they lasted for this many years whilst bro has owner her and god only knows what the previous owners had done .. I'm amazed.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    ... Ouch! I feel your pain ...
    Oh, that makes one of us then ..
    Strangely no pain .. just like a 4" nail out of a nail gun into the other index finger(years ago).

    The problem was the blood .. gushing like a monty python sketch.
    It stopped bleeding last night/this morning and I changed the bandaids. Got around to do it cleanly, but then went out to do the engine mounts on the TD5, and started on the LHS top bolt, and I could feel it pop again.
    Bandaid all red again .. arrgghh.
    Had to abandon the engine mounts for now till it stops bleeding.

    So not much of value happened to the D2 today.
    I did superglue the (deliberately) shattered grille tho. Then attacked it with a soldering iron and some cable ties. Worked well .. until!
    Prior to this I removed what remained of the central horizontal bars(they were already cracked up anyhow).
    In placing the wire mesh ready to sikaflex it over the opening .. the damned thing cracked again.
    Had to redo, then restart the wire mesh job, which is now out in the sun drying.

    Oh .. ps. if anyone is curious. standard grille design is pretty good as is .. so any would be saudi grille convertees should take note .. it won't help air flow to cool it down any better.
    I ran a for a half hour or so with the grille off after the watts link, one steepish hill taken at an accelerated velocity too. No change in what the nanocom regularly shows the coolant at.
    The only reason I'm modding the grille to a wire mesh pseduo saudi type is that the horizontal slats are pretty much totally missing, so it needs something, and I have the bits and some time to muck about.
    I also have a spare in really good condition, other than the colour.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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