Thanks for this Arthur, this is really good information. I'd never heard of it either, and it sounds like a good option.
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Thanks for this Arthur, this is really good information. I'd never heard of it either, and it sounds like a good option.
Like Tombie said, it is flammable, if if you have leaks(that's why vac test is important) could be an issue.
I've had LPG cars for many years, so not too worried about it.
I do smoke(still!), but didn't even dare taking the kit to the shed for the AC fix.
Spent most of the day back there, building cabinet(jeezus I had sawdust on a hot day) .. and plenty of smoko breaks ...
started the AC at about 7PM, still 36°C had dinner while it was vaccing itself, came back and ready to recharge.
After vac process, and then remove the line and connect the can'o'gas up you have to purge out the air in the line(that's the yellow), obviously it will spurt out some of this flammable gas out, not much, maybe a gram or two ... but again safety is important ... and it's flammable. You will smell the gas.
Lots of how to vids on the tube, but 99% of them are from Yankeeland, where they still use R134a.
I found one local chap who'd done it with this Hychill can'o'gas, so no need for a tute on here.
And then some channel called something 'Engineer'(German I think, but in English) and he explained the combo of gasses used in alternative refrigerants.
And overcharging(with this hychill, or LPG/propane) isn't just about potential safety problem, it also is an efficiency issue. Too much pressure and the alt gas doesn't work so well(explained in the German engineer Youtube vid).
I couldn't locate the AU Ford-Subaru-Tarago local chap that used Hychill, but if you search the tube for Hychill, I'm sure you'll find his video. The Tarago one was the one where he showed the instructions that come with the can of Hychill(if you get that stuff).
I found TheEngineer german video link ... HERE ... for the info about what the gases are. (oh! and it is R290, not R200 like I posted earlier) this isn't about how to recharge the AC system, he just talks about the alternative 'cheaper' gases available .. etc.
I read about this late yesterday and late last night, as my gas package had arrived(I picked up this morning). The AC kit/vac pump came last week.
Had to make the cabinet first, then thought to do the AC later. Wanted to wait till ambient cooled a bit, but didn't.
Like I said, total numpty, know zero about refrigeration, last minute reading up on it all, just wanted to see what pitfalls before doing it.
I know there are R134a temperature compensation tables, where depending on ambient temp, you adjust the pressure you pump into the blue(low) line as you recharge the gas.
Couldnt' find any info about the propane refrigerant tho .... so stuck to the manufacturers upper limit of 40psi. I think at 38°C R134a had to be 60psi.
if you do it, don't worry about the high pressure line(red line). You take notice that it's nice an high(eg. 600psi or something) which indicates that valves and orifices are working.
Would have liked to add oil(to be sure comp is going to last) but apparently not vital .. in that the oil doesn't easily get purged out. You can add it if you want tho.
Also didn't change the receiver drier either. Just wanted to see if compressor would start up with some gas in it ... [thumbsupbig]
RAVE doesn't give much info on the AC system. And actually conflicting info on the dual AC system, where RAVE says 900g of R134a, but the sticker on the car says 780 for dual AC system. single AC is 700g on both sticker and RAVE.
I didn't really watch the weight of the hychill too much .. more so on not going over 40psi with the blue(low) valve.
If you don't have the gear, it is(at least to me) a bit of gobbeldygook, but with the gear at hand, it made a lot more sense how it's done.
If I think I have it right, the process of reclaiming the R134a should be something like.. have an empty gas bottle of some kind at hand. I have a small 1kg(I think) old timer camp stove. I'll use the gas for the barby and then evacuate it with the vac pump.
Then connect the yellow hose to it(somehow), and the vacuum now in the tank will collect the R134a out of the AC system.
The question is, where does one take R134a for removal out of the gas bottle?
Your a heartless bastard, Mike. [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Pretty ( sorta ) sure BOC will take it, but you may need one of their bottles. Give 'em a call.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Some time back I traced a parasitic draw to the original radio. Flat batt almost daily. Took it out and problem solved. As I don't listen to the radio I didn't bother to fix it, but I eventually got sick of the hole in the dash. So I went onto TeeMoo and bought a POS with a big screen. Thing arrived with a bunch of connectors which looked like a headache in the making, until I saw that the plugs fitted were the right match for the OE wiring! Plugged it in and it works! Well, sorta. CarPlay requires a wired connection. But what I would use it for most of all will work with BT, so plugging in my phone ain't really necessary, but it does help if I want to use maps. Doesn't work with my alternative maps but hey.
Screen is large and relatively clear, touch works ok. I just wish the thing would stop taking control of BT and start playing stuff I don't want it to. But, what should I expect for $80? At least I no longer have a hole in the dash...
Oh yeah, I can make handsfree calls, but the mic is so pathetic nobody can hear me. Good thing there's nobody to ring. Haven't bothered to connect the included reverse camera. Maybe one day.
I had hychill in my D2 for eight years and it still worked when I sold the car.
It was originally charged by a mobile aircon bloke on the Central coast but when I contacted him to recharge he piked out saying he didn't use it any more. Ther ewas a scare campaign put out by R134a suppliers AFAIR. Maybe his insurance company got involved. But he did say that a friend had a bad experience.
So I kept using it until the day I sold it.
Be aware that all domestic fridges have LPG type gas and have for over 20 years and you do not see any kitchen blowing up.
The main danger as I understand it is in a serious accident but the gas volume is less than a glass full and you probably have more danger from the fuel injection if petrol..
Regards PhilipA
PS the molecule size of the hychill is far larger than 134A so it doesn't leak out as fast as with 134A.
The same folk mounting the scare campaign probably caught many taxis.....
Belatedly got around to fitting my ems3 gauge, oil pressure and coolant are working fine. Imho buy the adaptor plate making your own is doable but a pain (see also using a custom calibration for a sensor doable but annoying). Unfortunately my egt probe has died so will need to grab a replacement.
Got a sender in the autobox but haven't gotten around to crawling underneath, would be curious how people have ran the wiring for that if it's easier to go via the engine bay or where the gearbox loom comes up
I think I came from the Auto, up along the cooler lines, then up the firewall to the outer side of the booster then through the Gromit in the firewall.Quote:
Originally Posted by admiralranga
It's finally out, pressure washed and on the bench. Who needs a gym when you have to "bench press" gearboxes. Now to dismantle and see if i can figure out what's wrong. I notice the outer shaft doesn't turn is that normal?
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