Like Tombie said, it is flammable, if if you have leaks(that's why vac test is important) could be an issue.
I've had LPG cars for many years, so not too worried about it.
I do smoke(still!), but didn't even dare taking the kit to the shed for the AC fix.
Spent most of the day back there, building cabinet(jeezus I had sawdust on a hot day) .. and plenty of smoko breaks ...
started the AC at about 7PM, still 36°C had dinner while it was vaccing itself, came back and ready to recharge.
After vac process, and then remove the line and connect the can'o'gas up you have to purge out the air in the line(that's the yellow), obviously it will spurt out some of this flammable gas out, not much, maybe a gram or two ... but again safety is important ... and it's flammable. You will smell the gas.
Lots of how to vids on the tube, but 99% of them are from Yankeeland, where they still use R134a.
I found one local chap who'd done it with this Hychill can'o'gas, so no need for a tute on here.
And then some channel called something 'Engineer'(German I think, but in English) and he explained the combo of gasses used in alternative refrigerants.
And overcharging(with this hychill, or LPG/propane) isn't just about potential safety problem, it also is an efficiency issue. Too much pressure and the alt gas doesn't work so well(explained in the German engineer Youtube vid).
I couldn't locate the AU Ford-Subaru-Tarago local chap that used Hychill, but if you search the tube for Hychill, I'm sure you'll find his video. The Tarago one was the one where he showed the instructions that come with the can of Hychill(if you get that stuff).
I found TheEngineer german video link ... HERE ... for the info about what the gases are. (oh! and it is R290, not R200 like I posted earlier) this isn't about how to recharge the AC system, he just talks about the alternative 'cheaper' gases available .. etc.
I read about this late yesterday and late last night, as my gas package had arrived(I picked up this morning). The AC kit/vac pump came last week.
Had to make the cabinet first, then thought to do the AC later. Wanted to wait till ambient cooled a bit, but didn't.
Like I said, total numpty, know zero about refrigeration, last minute reading up on it all, just wanted to see what pitfalls before doing it.
I know there are R134a temperature compensation tables, where depending on ambient temp, you adjust the pressure you pump into the blue(low) line as you recharge the gas.
Couldnt' find any info about the propane refrigerant tho .... so stuck to the manufacturers upper limit of 40psi. I think at 38°C R134a had to be 60psi.
if you do it, don't worry about the high pressure line(red line). You take notice that it's nice an high(eg. 600psi or something) which indicates that valves and orifices are working.
Would have liked to add oil(to be sure comp is going to last) but apparently not vital .. in that the oil doesn't easily get purged out. You can add it if you want tho.
Also didn't change the receiver drier either. Just wanted to see if compressor would start up with some gas in it ...
RAVE doesn't give much info on the AC system. And actually conflicting info on the dual AC system, where RAVE says 900g of R134a, but the sticker on the car says 780 for dual AC system. single AC is 700g on both sticker and RAVE.
I didn't really watch the weight of the hychill too much .. more so on not going over 40psi with the blue(low) valve.
If you don't have the gear, it is(at least to me) a bit of gobbeldygook, but with the gear at hand, it made a lot more sense how it's done.
If I think I have it right, the process of reclaiming the R134a should be something like.. have an empty gas bottle of some kind at hand. I have a small 1kg(I think) old timer camp stove. I'll use the gas for the barby and then evacuate it with the vac pump.
Then connect the yellow hose to it(somehow), and the vacuum now in the tank will collect the R134a out of the AC system.
The question is, where does one take R134a for removal out of the gas bottle?



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