 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterDrove to Montville yesterday for lunch. Got some Landy waves from a defender and a Disco 2. Continued on to Lake Borumba. Was please my brakes held despite leaking copious amounts of fluid recently. (Also picked up a replacement brake fluid reservoir with grommets from British Off-road. Nice guys to deal with.
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Cheers, Josh
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberDo you know that on a D2 there is an indent in the pitman arm with a thread in the steering box to set the steering at straight ahead.yep , as rick mentioned they will be split nearly 50/50 when driving straight, I'm thinking your steering wheel would be a fair way clockwise from centre when driving before the alignment.
Its sometimes worthwhile to set the bolt and see where the steering wheel is, and whether the wheels are straight ahead as this can get out of kilter when replacing tie rod ends etc.
It becomes important if you shorten your bump stops to get better turning circle as you must hit the bumpstop before running out of steering box.
Regards Philip A
I set up a parallel string line down both sides of the car, then measure back to the rim.
Waaay back in the mists of time when working on cars we were aligning regularly I'd make bars that clipped onto the front and rear that had slots in it and run string down both sides. It was centred off the car centerline.
Quick, easy, repeatable.
Finally got around to fixing the horrendous clear coat failure on the bonnet with the Upol Raptor liner. Just had a couple of dents to fix and prime. Very pleased with the finish.
TRS Chip ,D2a I/c, Silcone Hoses, EMS2, 2" Lift, BFG KM2s, QT Diff Guards, 4X4 DE Guard, Shadow Bar. VRS Winch, LR Light Guards, .50 CDL, Provent 200, Slickrock Disconnects, Rovadrive Sump, G4 Roof Rails, D2a SLABS ECU, APT Sliders.DBA Rotors. ABS Ext.
Passenger side front window glass stops (? jams) just when it begins to open - a click heard when you close it. Thinking that maybe glass is not secure in the winding mechanism - any ideas or tips before i start pulling things apart......
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Get onto Roverlord - replacement mechanism is dirt cheap, not worth messing around with.
You'll most likely find one of the rollers has collapsed.
When you get to the inner vapour barrier (plastic), don't try to peel it back! That black mastic stuff they use will end up in your hair, your ears, and in your underwear! Just cut the plastic where you need to, then gaffer tape it back up when you're done.
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You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
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1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
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 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberYes thanks Philip, I sometimes use it when replacing steering box along with marker, also sometimes when doing a wheel alignment to hold in place while I
1: adjust track rod till individual toe is equal
2: adjust tie rod till toe is correct.
Unless the box or steering shaft has been removed or replaced the relationship between steering wheel and pitman arm can not change.
Agree you must hit steering lock stops before the sector shaft gets strained if you shorten the stops.
I only posted to let JohnD2 know the aligners had got it wrong as others had posted that it looked alright on the data sheet when it doesn't.
Cheers
 AT REST
					
					
						AT RESTLROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
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