Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I fitted the all new 12,000lb or 5443.1084kg winch. It is a Domin8r. I have an ARB winch bar. It was a royal pain in the arse to fit as the terminal; to the battery -ve had to be connected up before the winch is installed, this includes a very short earth lead to the control box. This terminal could have been on the rear of the unit, but I guess an ex Land rover Engineer stuck it at the front.
As the car weighs less than 5000kg, this winch could lift it up vertically. If I can find a tree strong enough. At least I'll be able to lift up the front to de grease the under body with ease.

Originally Posted by Bohica

As the car weighs less than 5000kg, this winch could lift it up vertically. If I can find a tree strong enough. At least I'll be able to lift up the front to de grease the under body with ease.

You may want to check the ARB bar specs to see if it's ok with a direct vertical load like that...


A little fun...

Originally Posted by Tins

You may want to check the ARB bar specs to see if it's ok with a direct vertical load like that...


A little fun...

I hope he had a second grappling hook and rope!

Originally Posted by johnp38

Toolpro thread repair kit from supercheap fixed the damage and torqued up ok. I didn't pull the TC apart in any way as the leaking was from the join at output housing and TC where silicon had been used to hold it back. And there is only so much I want to do, not learn too many new tricks quite yet so even though I got a full gasket and seal kit for the TC I decided to not get adventurous so didn't replace o rings. I would have cocked it up anyway the way today went, so thankfully less to beat myself up about.

And as I write this I just realized all I had to do was put the bloody thing in park and tighten that output shaft bolt, sheesh what a brain fade I was having today

I am not really inclined to pull it apart and back off the output housing bolts then redo to 25nm, and I will chance it that some torque on the output bolt is better than the zero it had for god only knows how long. Unless someone who goes by 'discorevy' says otherwise (I don't argue with ppl that know more than me I just obey)

IMG_20230111_165041.jpg IMG_20230111_165113.jpg Got out there today and split it and torqued all to specs as it would be a waste of effort to leave it as it was once I had the proper torque values. So output shaft nut now at 60nm. Then flipped over (after hour of wasted time trying it horizontal) on its other end and seated V8 converter to 73mm as per ashcroft specs. Once I got the hang of it on this box, (never ever this much farting around to fit a converter onto pump before) I replaced the seal and final fit the converter, now thinking about how to keep it in place.

Tonights job bolt up the flywheel and new spacer / flexplate kit.

Originally Posted by Slunnie;[URL="tel:3178034"

3178034[/URL]]

I hope he had a second grappling hook and rope!

If you aren’t familiar with the movie, that Land Rover, dubbed the Antichrist, is central to, but not the cause of, many of that bloke’s problems.

Originally Posted by johnp38

Got out there today and split it and torqued all to specs as it would be a waste of effort to leave it as it was once I had the proper torque values. So output shaft nut now at 60nm. Then flipped over (after hour of wasted time trying it horizontal) on its other end and seated V8 converter to 73mm as per ashcroft specs. Once I got the hang of it on this box, (never ever this much farting around to fit a converter onto pump before) I replaced the seal and final fit the converter, now thinking about how to keep it in place.

Tonights job bolt up the flywheel and new spacer / flexplate kit.

Yep, they can be a bear to get the converter home.

I should have got on here earlier to tell you that you could have torqued the output bolt by removing the TC top plate, sorry.

I have the luxury of a hoist so the box is tilted back to stop the converter falling out but maybe fishing line that can be removed after it's home?.

What will make life easier to fit it though, is to take the starter motor stud out and refit it after the box is home.

Tie the oil pressure wire and Crank sensor out of the way.

28mm hole saw for the bell housing and you WILL want a straight 13mm ratchet spanner and a thin long pair of long nose pliers.

Don't tighten the Torque converter bolts till they're all in, then use a large screwdriver levering between the inspection hole and the ring gear to tighten.

I don't think you will leave the stock tune in for too long after it's on the road.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by onebob

Re the remote filter location, see the pics below of the location that I chose for the filter mount. There’s enough headroom for a Z9 if you want.

Hi mate. I take it the issue is Td5? The V8 is easy. You get some extra oil in the system with the pipes which is a plus with this remote mount. Cheers

Originally Posted by d2dave

What about when sitting for a while, some of the oil would drain out.

Would you then have when starting engine, no oil pressure for a few milliseconds until it fills up?

I have thought about that too and subsequently have been made aware that modern oil filters have anti-drain back valves and to expect that the oil lines will remain fully charged as long as air is not allowed to enter that part of the system.