Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by johnp38

Put anderson plug at the back near tow bar so it can do double duty as trailer/caravan power and charging point. Mine is wired off the fuse box incoming battery +ve feed not to battery terminals.

It's actually extremely handy for charging as I have also modded the charger with an anderson plug. Anderson plug to red/black spring clamps are readily available at the auto shops too (cheap enough to justify not making a set), to keep versatility.

Originally Posted by Tins

My OKA has dual SB350 plugs front and rear. OK, that's probably overkill for your application, the OKA has a winch mounted to a hitch and has a hitch receiver front and rear, an idea I hate and will change..... But, the plugs can be used for other things, such as jumper leads and for charging.

Ha, was outlooking at the front of the D2 and thinking where to put the Anderson plug assembly, in the grill on the bull bar etc. and a thought to my mind, came inside and think I have the perfect solution!!!

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That is to locate on it the surround for the Ultraflex light, the cover is on the light where it will be located, the fitting in the middle of the pic to go behind the light and another cover open on the left of the pic.

I just tucked mine on the bullbar behind the driver's side hoop. Tho I went over kill and fitted a 175A anderson so I could jump start off it.

Originally Posted by DCOA

I've done all that before also and no matter what I get air in the heater core and hear sloshing so I just live with it at this point.

When do you hear the sloshing?

if it's whilst you're turning/accelerating/decelerating, it's not the heater core. 99.9% for sure it's your HVAC fan full of water. Water has nowhere to drain. If you have already checked it, then forget my reply. But if you haven't, then double check it quickly else your fan motor will rust out if you leave it too long.
IIRC the three screws are combo torx and or flat screw types. The one nearest the bulkhead(firewall is tight for space to remove).
If it does have water in it(and my suspicion is very high here), it's due to the broken plenum cover. Water(rain, etc) gets in down the window and runs pretty much straight into the air intake ... down into the fan area.

No prizes for guessing why I suggest this
I had a roll of self adhesive rubbery/foam like strip(about 2-3 inches wide) and being self adhesive, I half stuck it to the black metal vent inlet area, with an inch or so of it higher than the black vent area(ie, just raise the vent height). Not too high coz the plenum, has to go back on too.

Originally Posted by DCOA

Good point, I didn't remember my last D2 having the big silver bit in the top hose.

Edit: OK I'm a bit confused by how my coolant hoses are, The top hose in mine has been modified so there is no pipe going down to the crossover at the bottom.

Looks like someone has bypassed whatever it was doing.

Second Edit: OK there is no thermostat either. They have totally bypassed the pipe that goes from thermostat to the top hose. I have some parts to order by the looks.

Yeah .. the thermostat is the silver thing in the bottom RHS corner of the image. It's an inline thermostat.

The top hose looks like out of a V8 like setup. TD5 bleeder is in the hose itself, just a plastic screw in the rubber of the hose. That T piece bleeder is V8 looking.
In the US, the inline thermostat is a very common mod, to supposedly help cool the motor more effectively(or words to that effect).

I'm always suspicious of weird mods that seemingly don't need to be made. I don't mind modded stuff, if the mod makes sense, but Td5s don't usually suffer from cooling system issues.
Unless there is a malfunction of some kind thats happened, like dead thermostat, or dead fan, or blocked radiator.
I always wonder when I see stuff like this, why did they mod it? Were they trying to bypass an issue, instead of fix the issue?

My Td5, used to run hotter than I liked to see. Up to and past 110°C in some instances, and always when you wanted a bit of power up a steep hill.
Turned out that absolutely fine looking radiator was the culprit. I replaced it because the top hose inlet port had been either sawn off(I reckon) or maybe it snapped, but the point being that the bead on the inlet port that secures the hose properly wasn't there.
I used to think that hard up a hill in a TD5 would see the coolant temps get to 110°C was normal(it was working hard afterall). But after the rad change, temps in every situation had lowered marginally to significantly.
In just pottering around driving mode, down from low 90s to high 80s. But the biggest difference is now pulling 3.2t hard up a hill, struggling to sit on 60k/h it peaked for a few sec at 101°C but then hovered in the high 90s to 100, and very quickly recovered once cresting and the right foot was allowed to back off a little.

Originally Posted by AK83

Unless there is a malfunction of some kind thats happened, like dead thermostat, or dead fan, or blocked radiator.

Or plastic bloody dowells locating the cylinder head.

Steering Guard!


I think I'd still prefer an ARB bar down the track but it looks a lot better now with this added.

Bought another D2.

I think I had better seek help... that's now 4LR's.
If I keep this up I'm going to be in trouble soon with the missus. (can already sense the displeasure heheh )

Pick it up next week. pics below. It's no princess, Definitely needs a respray (when do they not need one up here in this sun) but it is a very solid 2k 10p td5 manual Eu2 and it's absolutely sorted mechanically and well serviced (which is exactly what I want- oh and the HVAC works still).
jb4.jpgjb7.jpgjb3.jpgjb6.jpgjb2.jpgjb5.jpgjb1.jpg

For some time I have been debating / delayed the decision whether or not I keep the swb RRC or the v8 d2 or part out / mod-build one from both. I still need a 'farm' truck, the D2v8 is proving to be very useful for this. However, I find that I cannot bring myself to turn either RRC or D2v8 into a ute.... The swb rrc may still end up being a sheetmetal donor for the LSE - but with 4 LR's and covered space for 3 means eventually one will suffer the elements. It's an uncomfortable decision.
Having said that -
This purchase gives me opportunity to dereg. the LSE and commence the 'serious work' to make it the vehicle I actually want. I'm certain the td5 may end up being the useful runabout, with the d2v8 serving it's purpose as the farm truck. But there are options - td5 swap the LSE, drop the d2v8 into the td5 chassis then part out the RRC and d2v8 shell or keep some for spares and junk the rest... would cull the fleet to two, but also save much precious space.. only thought bubbles, but postulating such things makes memories of past projects and future space considerations a focal point. Building another shed is not really on the agenda. It may just 'happen' if I get caught in decision paralysis.

Originally Posted by AK83

Yeah .. the thermostat is the silver thing in the bottom RHS corner of the image. It's an inline thermostat.

The top hose looks like out of a V8 like setup. TD5 bleeder is in the hose itself, just a plastic screw in the rubber of the hose. That T piece bleeder is V8 looking.
In the US, the inline thermostat is a very common mod, to supposedly help cool the motor more effectively(or words to that effect).

The top hose is actually aftermarket Td5 that comes with plastic T pieces where the heater offshoot/ bleed nipple is and another plastic T piece that has the radiator bypass hose going down to the thermostat on it.

You remove the Bypass hose T piece and substitute it with the inline thermostat housing, and then run bottom hose straight from radiator to water pump as pictured a few posts down.

It removes the convoluted crap the factory put there and performs bloody great. I have much faster warm up and very stable temp in all weather. I just used some 34mm hoses off a magna at the local wreckers to do the job.

It is not a better system from the factory just different, ie their way of doing it.

And darn easier to deal with a blocked/faulty thermostat too, unscrew the housing and remove it and you're back on your way and buy a readily available 'generic' thermostat from any parts shop to fit back in.