Thread: Auto Trans: Several Symptoms

Really? The TC doesn't lock in 3rd (and stay locked) at a lower speed than 4th?

oh, I thought you were talking about off road driving or proper not screwing around, I'm looking out over the bonnet and all I can see is sky, theres nothing but planet in the mirrors the steering's scarey light from the rearwards weight transference Its been that way for 5 minutes now, I'm down to first and I'm really thinking about a snap shift to low cause the engines starting to drop down from max power Rpms towards the max torque point and I'm not sure its going to steady up there kind of steep.

Id have expected it to kick down into 3rd anyway. If you'd damaged a clutch pack changing the fluid wouldn't have helped.

old burnt fluid will allow the control valves to stick and the clutch packs to be sluggish due to friction and it will very quickly lead to deteroration of the Lock up clutch material in the TC (gear selection clutch pack material comes out as a kind of brassy colour, gear metal silver and Tc clutch pack is blackish). To me this points at you got the dying fluid out before it could do severe damage to the trans, its when you change out the old fluid and the symptoms get worse that you know youve got a damaged box.

IF you're unlucky you might have worn the sprags early which you'll pick up when it wont move off in D until you manually select first.

Becoming a thread hijack but I think worth clarifying for other readers.

My previous posts were bashed out on the phone and poorly written.

What I was talking about was an ascent of 1000M of vertical (on bitumen) so a long, steep climb (Mt Wellington, actually 1250M).

Do that in D and the tranny will haul you up with TC unlocked, if you're not careful. And god bless her, the wife's not. Serves me right for drinking too much beer the previous night and not being alert to it until the red dash light pierced my searing hangover.

For the remaining 2000km of the journey, the vehicle wouldn't move from stationary until tranny was at operating temp.

After the journey, I dumped some fluid and found clutch material in the filter. I'm no gearbox wizz but I know clutch material when I see it.

I drove and reapeated a couple of times until the filter presented cleanly.

And now it drives just like the same clunky old heap it was before the big climb.

Ambient temp is 65 degrees this morning. I let truck warm-up and began my drive with shifter on 3. Going down the city blocks toward the freeway, I didn't get lockup in 3 right away, which is what I expected. I pulled over, put the shifter in Park and sat for a minute. Back in 3, I begin driving again, get lockup in 3rd almost immediately and that's it, ready to go. Truck is much like myself, doesn't like the cold but plays well when its warm out. So, to address the post concerning trans cooler temps actually being colder than engine temps and displayed temperature, is the cold fluid needing to be warmed the origin of the hesitation in shifts and TC lockup, or is it possibly a fault with the pump, solenoid, other? Warmer weather equals thinner/lighter viscosity with the fluid, then again computer parameters controlling shift patterns would produce the same symptoms.

Originally Posted by Chubbs878

Ambient temp is 65 degrees this morning. I let truck warm-up and began my drive with shifter on 3. Going down the city blocks toward the freeway, I didn't get lockup in 3 right away, which is what I expected. I pulled over, put the shifter in Park and sat for a minute. Back in 3, I begin driving again, get lockup in 3rd almost immediately and that's it, ready to go. Truck is much like myself, doesn't like the cold but plays well when its warm out. So, to address the post concerning trans cooler temps actually being colder than engine temps and displayed temperature, is the cold fluid needing to be warmed the origin of the hesitation in shifts and TC lockup, or is it possibly a fault with the pump, solenoid, other? Warmer weather equals thinner/lighter viscosity with the fluid, then again computer parameters controlling shift patterns would produce the same symptoms.

Auto box shifting in a D2 is computer controlled and temperature sensing, but you cant see the auto data on the display or the generic readers.

in an old school auto I'd blame contaminated/failing oil and cold making valves and actuators stick.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Auto box shifting in a D2 is computer controlled and temperature sensing, but you cant see the auto data on the display or the generic readers.

in an old school auto I'd blame contaminated/failing oil and cold making valves and actuators stick.

I thought I might undo the harness connections, see anything needs to be cleaned-up and secure/ clip everything back.