Thread: suggestions for my newly purchased d2

If you look at the bottom of the page you will see a specialised Google box which searches this forum only (except for the paid ads).

There are many threads on this subject , and I suggest that you have a look at them and then come back with any remaining questions you have.
Something like D2 problem areas should find some.
Regards Philip A

I tow a 3.2+T caravan with my 2004 TD5 auto. I have HD torque converter, modded/large transmission cooler with (over-ride) fan and temp gauge, and a mild TD5Inside towing/economy remap, and rear airbag supports, but I also have oversize tyres, which is not so smart for HD towing.
The most important addition for me is an EGT gauge which can get to scary heights when towing uphill etc, plus my permanently connected Nanocom for reading real coolant temps.
Next step will be a HD alloy radiator as mine gets too hot at anything over a sustained 80 kmph and 30 degrees ambient temp (and we don't have many real hills in the west).
The other thing I do as recommended here is tow in Gear 3 Sports mode - using 4th/overdrive gets EGT and coolant too hot

Don't know for sure what the gross was, but I reckon it was over three tonne. Towed it about 800km with no issues. Car didn't know it was there, apart from the fuel consumption that is! Car was pretty much stock, apart from a 25% chip upgrade from Ritters. The SLS worked in those days.

[IMG][/IMG]

A tip when towing with the auto, especially the weights that are being discussed here.

When moving from stationary, manually select 1st. This then engages the rear band in the auto, which then takes the load off the sprag clutch.

This sprag is a known failure point.

The sprag is only active when auto is in first gear, so once you are ready for a higher gear, you can then move your shifter to the gear of your choice.

My suggestion would be, if no record of it having been done, renew engine hoses, especially the one hidden behind the turbo.


Cheers, Jerry

Can't beat rear SLS for great towing setup!

For better performance you want a remap, larger intercooler, VNT, make the exhaust flow a bit freer and an Ashcroft HD torque converter.
If running oversized tyres regear the diff ratios to suit.

Depending what your towing and what your pulling it through the Ashcroft ATB's can be a great improvement for traction.

Setup a Madman EMS to monitor your automatic transmission fluids temperatures and upgrade or fit a second fluid cooler if required.

If the auto box ever goes consider the HD rebuilds that Ashcroft offer based on the V8 units.


Really though, you need to consider your budget as if you start blowing big amounts on this vehicle you may rather be better getting a D3 with the TDV6 instead..

Hi Ari,
I referred you to other posts on this subject as I thought you were primarily interested on what to do to prepare your car for heavy towing.

I fear with 234Kk on the clock I think you are being very optimistic to think that you can do that without a real danger of having an expensive failure , particularly of the transmission.
In your case I would flush the trans, fit new filter and fill it with high quality synthetic ATF like Castrol Transmax Z and maybe fit an additional cooler. BUT unless the PO has been very sympathetic and has changed ATF regularly this will probably only delay the inevitable failure for a short time.
You will have to really concentrate on driving the car to keep the transmission cool, and that means driving in Torque converter lockup as much as possible. The 4HP 22EH has lockup in 3 ( at 60Kmh under load and 70 Kmh light load) and 4 at over 80Kmh.
I guess if the trans dies you can then look to a beefed up trans but be aware you are talking $5K-7K plus for this.
Your LT230 transfer case is probably also pretty tired and at that Ks will probably have little left of the shims in the centre diff and may fail under a heavy load. It is probably also leaking out of the intermediate shaft Oring and the input shaft seal at the front.
You should also ensure that the front driveshaft double cardan joint is is good condition as if left to run dry can self destruct and take out the case of the transmission.
It doesn't bode well that the bolts in the rear donut were allowed to get so loose , as you would have to have cloth ears to not feel or hear it happening.
There are several other things that you may find inadequate for your plan including the radiator and hoses. All hoses should be renewed including the small hidden hose behind the turbo, unless they have been done in the last couple of years which sounds unlikely.
The other issues include the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel cooler, oil in the injector harness, MAF sensor failure, and of course the oil pump bolt which if it loosens WILL destroy the engine, so it probably worth changing to a new bolt just for peace of mind.
I hope the PO left you with a complete record of what has been done to the car so that you can prioritise what actions to take.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Hi Ari,
I referred you to other posts on this subject as I thought you were primarily interested on what to do to prepare your car for heavy towing.

I fear with 234Kk on the clock I think you are being very optimistic to think that you can do that without a real danger of having an expensive failure , particularly of the transmission.
In your case I would flush the trans, fit new filter and fill it with high quality synthetic ATF like Castrol Transmax Z and maybe fit an additional cooler. BUT unless the PO has been very sympathetic and has changed ATF regularly this will probably only delay the inevitable failure for a short time.
You will have to really concentrate on driving the car to keep the transmission cool, and that means driving in Torque converter lockup as much as possible. The 4HP 22EH has lockup in 3 ( at 60Kmh under load and 70 Kmh light load) and 4 at over 80Kmh.
I guess if the trans dies you can then look to a beefed up trans but be aware you are talking $5K-7K plus for this.
Your LT230 transfer case is probably also pretty tired and at that Ks will probably have little left of the shims in the centre diff and may fail under a heavy load. It is probably also leaking out of the intermediate shaft Oring and the input shaft seal at the front.
You should also ensure that the front driveshaft double cardan joint is is good condition as if left to run dry can self destruct and take out the case of the transmission.
It doesn't bode well that the bolts in the rear donut were allowed to get so loose , as you would have to have cloth ears to not feel or hear it happening.
There are several other things that you may find inadequate for your plan including the radiator and hoses. All hoses should be renewed including the small hidden hose behind the turbo, unless they have been done in the last couple of years which sounds unlikely.
The other issues include the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel cooler, oil in the injector harness, MAF sensor failure, and of course the oil pump bolt which if it loosens WILL destroy the engine, so it probably worth changing to a new bolt just for peace of mind.
I hope the PO left you with a complete record of what has been done to the car so that you can prioritise what actions to take.
Regards Philip A

Agree with Phillips listing of issues however it paints a dark cloud which isn't necessarily the case.

My 2000 D2 TD5 is older than yours and has now done 280,000km. I have owned it for two years and driven 30,000km in that time. Over the last 6 months I am regularly towing 3 - 3.5tonne for work and havent had a roadside failure (touch wood) yet.

Typical heavy loaded trip is a several hours drive to 8 hours continous driving in South Australia which is hot in summer.
My next work trip is likely to be Weipa QLD towing ~3tonne which will be completed in 5 days covering a distance of 3,800km. Will be there for 10 days then return over the following week. The round trip will be in excess of 7,500km.

I have experienced and addressed most of what has been described.

Nanocom - Purchased 2 years ago.
Chipped - Trimph Rover Spares, 2 years ago.
Front driveshaft double cardan joint - imminent failure picked up during routine service and replaced.
Viscous fan bearing - failed and replace 18months ago.
Thermostat - done 12 months ago.
Oil injector harness - done 12 months ago.
Harmonic balancer - replaced 9 months ago.
MAF sensor - done 6 months ago.
Fuel cooler - done 3 months ago.
New hoses - done progressively inc the small hidden hose behind the turbo.
XYZ switch - done but wasnt necessary.
Intercooler - upgraded with silicon hoses few weeks ago
Boost - wound up a few weeks ago.
Extended AC drip hoses - last weekend.
Three Amigos - Option B done yesterday.
Fuel pressure regulator - this weekend.
Oil pump bolt - done 30mins ago.
Stripped sump plug - re-tapped an hour ago.

Short term to be actioned:
Rear donut - ordered.
Glow plugs - ordered.

Considered:
New radiator - advice was that it wasnt necessary.
Transfer case cooler - advice was that it wasnt necessary. Running full synthetic oil.
Automatic gearbox cooler - advice was that it wasnt necessary however I am considering fitting a second standard oil cooler. Running full synthetic oil.
Fitting EGT.

Medium term to be actioned.:
Leaking out of the intermediate shaft Oring - will be rebuilding transfer box.

Maintenance isnt too big a deal as I can perform most of it myself. To buy a vehicle with a equivalent towing capability is big $$$.

We love our Disco for where it has taken us and where it will and are self described as "Land Rover Enthusiasts".

Ari, you will love your car. Its a fine vehicle that will provide you great memories and adventures