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Thread: Intermittent Loss of Power

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobba79 View Post
    Ok. I'm ready to get on with it after my little cry. Am now think it could be boost modulator. From the symptoms I've previously posted would anyone agree it could be this part?
    Are there any issues doing the Defender bypassing it for a full week while I wait for the part to come in?

    Again thank you for everyone's help & time. Once I can get her running properly I'll be a more positive member of AULRO, positing pics & adventures but for now I've got to get her to the point I can drive her without crying. Lol
    If your chase leed`s you to think it`s the boost modulator you can by pass it to help diagnose .

  2. #12
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    Firstly thank you again for your time & assistance.

    Excuse my ignorance as I'm just learning (but learning a lot) but can silicone hose delaminate also.

  3. #13
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    Just so bloody frustrating. How can it be that with the ecu now getting data from the MAF it's pulling worse. If I unplug it I got power back but I know it's working so it a something else.

    PS. Just put a new MAP in & no joy. Still no power till approx 2k rpm.

  4. #14
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    Again please allow me the sincerely thank everyone foe taking the time to help me. I'm sure with the wealth of knowledge here I will finally get her running right. Thank you!

  5. #15
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    Can you hear the pump cavitate with ign on engine off?. Is it hard to start sometimes?. Yes , look at injector washers as mentioned, no , check cam timing , physically check all hoses to boost modulator for holes ( even small ones) if your going to bypass the modulator shorten the actuator rod by 3_4 full turns , everything else really requires live readings / fault codes

  6. #16
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    Hey Mate, Thank you for the assistance.
    It's never difficult to start & no sound on ignition on. I've worked 24hrs (hence the meltdown posts. lol), have 10 hrs off & about to start another 24hrs but tomorrow day period should be quiet so I will take each hose off & inspect thoroughly.

    Also may I ask this:-
    If my wastegate was sticky or stuck and the actuator was not able to operate it properly could this cause issues of no power until 2k rpm? As I said i am learning and have been reading a lot. still getting my head around turbos. The reason I ask is i've watched videos of people able to put a set of multigrips on theirs & move them towards the dump. I don't seem to get much movement out of mine & it appears to slightly twist where it attaches to the dump (like it has resistance that end. Could it be that it is stuck/sticky & when RPM gets up there is enough pressure to have the engine pull but at low RPM the dump allows too much out? (I don't hear air escaping or anything while driving although it is hard to hear what's going on under the hood and there is no way to test it if it's not under load).

    I know, I know I need to get it plugged into a diagnostic tool. lol I'll have to buy one as the shop here isn't that great.

  7. #17
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    On another note

    In doing research I came across this :-
    LAND ROVER DEFENDER Td5 AND DISCOVERY 2 Td5 BRAND NEW TURBO BOOST BOX DA4667
    LAND ROVER DEFENDER Td5 AND DISCOVERY 2 Td5 BRAND NEW TURBO BOOST BOX DA4667 | eBay

    I have one on my vehicle. Didn't know what it was. ECU has been remapped by Davis & one of these is also floating around with the ECU. I rig does pull like a bloody train when I have the MAF off. No wonder I guess. Really go to get to the bottom of this issue so I can start enjoying it again. Lol

  8. #18
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    Definitely possible you have a partially stuck wastegate , the bushings can sometimes fail , I think one type of Davis map used to give not much and then light switch at 2000 odd rpm, but that would have happened from day one if it was that , ditto if a low stall converter is fitted , presuming auto , with a remap you need to get a boost gauge and egt gauge especially up there , would be hard to see what the boost is doing using nanocom etc with the boost box as this will mask the true reading to the ecu that it reads from , if you look at the wastegate lever it should be around the 7 O'Clock position , remove the circlip ( don't lose it) and remove the actuator rod , the lever should move easily with very little resistance

  9. #19
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    discorevy. I'd just like to say thank you. Second time you've helped me. Thank you mate. I'll get stuck in tomorrow & do as you've said.
    I pulled all the hoses but they are very new silicon ones so as expected no delamination.

  10. #20
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    After my TD5 was chipped it ran without the boost modulator thanks to a little box which stops the high boost value getting to the ecu. So you should be ok unless you put the boot in.
    If you can get a Nanocom, plug it in & go for a drive with it set to record the fueling. When it plays up, stomp up & down on the accelerator a few times. Offload the stored fueling log onto a pc & then use the file viewer to look at the file retrieved from the Nanocom. Look for the accelerator trend where you stomped up & down on it & then look at all of the other sensor inputs just before & during the accelerator inputs. If any sensors are acting up intermittently, you should be able to see which one. This is how I found an intermittently faulty MAP sensor on my D2.
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

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