Thread: Nasty Knock

Originally Posted by rapserv

Had a better look this morning and it appears that the harmonic balancer has failed as front and back rotate seperately about 5cm on the circumference before hitting a metallic stop either end, so the rubber seems to have let go completely.

Just wondering if it is safe to carefully drive still... just far enough to pick up new parts

Could be chewing on the end of a loaded barrel in my opinion. If you drive and it goes completely, then factor in a possible new radiator, front cover or all sorts of expensive things if it blows.
Regards, Mario

Originally Posted by rapserv

Had a better look this morning and it appears that the harmonic balancer has failed as front and back rotate seperately about 5cm on the circumference before hitting a metallic stop either end, so the rubber seems to have let go completely.

Just wondering if it is safe to carefully drive still... just far enough to pick up new parts

Could be chewing on the end of a load barrel in my opinion. If you drive and it goes completely, then factor in a possible new radiator, front cover or all sorts of expensive things if it blows.
Regards, Mario

just one other query?

I will probably use the breaker bar and engine method to crack the the main bolt on the balancer and need to make sure that the engine does not accidentally start. Any failsafe suggestions? I initially thought of disabling engine with nanocom... but it I think it would be far easier to just pull the connector off the crank sensor. This should prevent it stating... shouldn't it

...and thanks mario for your advice

Originally Posted by rapserv

just one other query?

I will probably use the breaker bar and engine method to crack the the main bolt on the balancer and need to make sure that the engine does not accidentally start. Any failsafe suggestions? I initially thought of disabling engine with nanocom... but it I think it would be far easier to just pull the connector off the crank sensor. This should prevent it stating... shouldn't it

...and thanks mario for your advice

Just a thought, pull the fuel pump fuse, run the engine until it stops. then try.
You just need to re prime the fuel system, which is key on key off sequence.

another problem that I have only just thought of

once I removed the damaged HB using the engine crack method and fit the new one ...how do I re-torque it to the required 340ft/lbs????. I'm going to have the same problem, being an auto, stopping the crank from turning.
removal is one thing using the engine to do the work, but you could not do the opposite to this as the bolt is tightening and may only need a fraction of a turn to get it to the correct torque. I would think that tightening this way would be considerably more dangerous than when undoing.

should I be looking at trying to make the LR special tool LRT-51-003?