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Thread: Nasty Knock

  1. #1
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    Angry Nasty Knock

    They say things happen in 3's !!!!

    1st ... a fuel pump issue ...now fixed

    2nd ... a burst transmission cooler hose ...waiting on parts

    now...after limping a short distance back to base with the failed trans cooler hose being temporarily repaired, I shut the engine down and noticed a metalic knocking noise that I have not noticed before. (with accoustic cover off maybe it is more noticable now) Can't see any reason why a burst trans cooler hose would cause any knocking in the motor.
    Had a good look over the engine and can't see anything obvious, other than everything being sprayed with trans oil.
    Topped up the transmission again and 2 days later started up and went for a short gentle run to the local shop and all seemed ok apart from the metallic knock still being there. Noticed that with aircond on the knocking stops.. when aircond disengages it starts again... so under load it sounds ok. Arriving back home I turned engine off and noticed this nasty metallic sounding knock again.
    Thinking I may have done a con rod or something, I let the engine cool down a bit and then went looking for the knock. Didn't take long to find where the problem seems to be. Was able to move the fan belt fairly easily back and forth and a pretty solid metallic knock was felt.
    I have attached a couple of seconds video so that I can get some thoughts from knowledgeable members as to what they think the problem might be. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

    This link is to Vimeo as I think it probably exceeds aulro file size

    [ame]https://vimeo.com/195435289[/ame]

  2. #2
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    Ac compressor ?
    Or the belt tensioner ?

  3. #3
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    Crank harmonic balancer. The centre is still tight on the tank, but the outer pulls has broken away from the centre.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

  4. #4
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    and


    if the harmonic balancer breaks it will look like the 2 halves I had

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Ac compressor ?
    Or the belt tensioner ?
    thanks rangieman...

    it seems fairly easy to move the belt back and forth with a quite solid knock at each end as you can probably hear from the video. I have attempted to do this in the past and I think that its been fairly hard to move the belt due to cylinder compression. I might be wrong though. It could just be that due to my concern for a possible major fault that I have considerably more adrenalin running Still, its hard to see why I would have such a major fault occur at the same time as the trans cooler hose goes. I use the TD5 for towing a 21ft caravan on a full time basis, but I drive pretty carefully and with a light right foot as well as manually downchanging the auto before getting under too much load. That is, even though I'm towing quite a load I don't 'push' to vehicle and drive mostly with one eye on the EGT display.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnb44 View Post
    and


    if the harmonic balancer breaks it will look like the 2 halves I had
    thanks kelvo and johnb44,
    I think I'll have to start dropping a few things off tomorrow and see if this could be the problem... hopefully not!!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnb44 View Post
    and


    if the harmonic balancer breaks it will look like the 2 halves I had
    Have not done a harmonic balancer before.
    If it is broken as in your picture, how do you get it off the shaft?
    Also, would I need to remove the radiator, etc to do the job?
    Being on the road full time I can't carry all the tools to do every job... but I do have a fair range still

  8. #8
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    Use the starter motor and bar to get it off , you'll need to protect the radiator , better to remove and clean that and intercooler while its out .
    You'll need a torque wrench capable of nearly 500 nm or an alternative method.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Use the starter motor and bar to get it off , you'll need to protect the radiator , better to remove and clean that and intercooler while its out .
    You'll need a torque wrench capable of nearly 500 nm or an alternative method.
    thanks discorevy,

    replaced the radiator and cleaned everything out a couple of months back.
    I have a piece of plywood that I slide in front of the radiator face to protect it normally. I'd prefer to leave radiator in place if possible as I have had a leaking bleed valve surround on top of the top radiator hose where I currently have a 'engine save' sensor fitted. It's not leaking at this time and I would like to keep it that way if at all possible.
    Is the balancer a press fit that needs to be 'pulled' off (so to speak ) or will it just slide off once the main bolt is removed?
    Putting it back on might be a case of doing up as tight as possible and then taking to a local repair shop to have them torque it properly.

  10. #10
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    andersons and rover here in hervey bay did mine he has a special tool that hung onto while he had a big breaker bar with an extension on it to undo the bolt [I think he said 140foot pounds] didn't need to take anything off other than the fan which was damaged anyway . lucky the radiator was not damaged

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