New Head Gaskets

That is the water jacket.
The heads will also leak at the front and rear corners where they join the block. I think this because the blocks relax over time and get a warp.
I had my block in Saudi line bored and machined flat many years ago and my 91 used to leak there with OEM Ehlring composite gaskets both with shaved 3.9 heads and with new 4.6 heads.

You should inspect all of the cam lobes while the heads are off. Any with discolouration or bits off the sides near the tips mean a new cam and lifters.

I found that with recent (6years ago) end gaskets that I had to trim a bit off each end so that they fitted properly. I put sealant around the water passages also.
Personally I think the composite valley gaskets are good although early ones used to delaminate and the rubber stuff fall into the valley. I have seen this at Graeme Cooper.
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

The heads will also leak at the front and rear corners where they join the block. I think this because the blocks relax over time and get a warp.

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Would this be largely to do with the silicon bead that is required in this location failing (4 spots).

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

You should inspect all of the cam lobes while the heads are off. Any with discolouration or bits off the sides near the tips mean a new cam and lifters.

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Is there an expectation to turn the cam while in the current state. Is it just a case of placing in neutral and turning the crankshaft pulley by hand. Otherwise really no idea yet.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I found that with recent (6years ago) end gaskets that I had to trim a bit off each end so that they fitted properly. I put sealant around the water passages also.

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I've got a can of Hylomar (universal jointing compound from Repco) but that's about it. Where would you suggest to place extra sealant and what type. Similar to RTV that is required in the 4 corner mentioned above? I was planning to spray the water jacket ports etc with Hylomar.


Attachment 142358

Cheers
Andrew

I know you probably dont want to hear this,
but any time after 100K would be worth changing the cam(yes and followers and valve springs[bighmmm])
the OE cams are made out of some sort of shiney timber...

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I know you probably dont want to hear this,
but any time after 100K would be worth changing the cam(yes and followers and valve springs[bighmmm])
the OE cams are made out of some sort of shiney timber...

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I have also seen that advice elsewhere but I'm choosing to ignore it. Possibly to my detriment.

If I have to go back I will not mind. At least the heads don't need to come off to do the cam.

Are you referring to the lifters and push rods above as well as the valve springs

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Would this be largely to do with the silicon bead that is required in this location failing (4 spots).

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AFAIK there is no silicon bead unless you mean the seal imprinted on the gasket. I think that the clearance just becomes too big for the Erhling .
I was told by someone that the OEM gaskets are great at keeping combustion in but not so good at water.

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Is there an expectation to turn the cam while in the current state. Is it just a case of placing in neutral and turning the crankshaft pulley by hand. Otherwise really no idea yet.

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Yes, but I don't know how many Ks the engine has done . If over 100 k as the other poster said. If over say 180K then almost surely change the cam, lifters, timing chain and sprockets.

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I've got a can of Hylomar (universal jointing compound from Repco) but that's about it. Where would you suggest to place extra sealant and what type. Similar to RTV that is required in the 4 corner mentioned above? I was planning to spray the water jacket ports etc with Hylomar.

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I think Hylomar would be good to spray on a steel valley gasket ( head side) but not on a composite, maybe on the top of the valley gasket where the manifold goes . I would tend to use something like grey Permatex sparingly around the water jackets and also it can be used at the ends of the end seals ( and probably all along them if used sparingly) to prevent oil leaks.
Regards Philip A

Regard sPhilip A

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

AFAIK there is no silicon bead unless you mean the seal imprinted on the gasket. I think that the clearance just becomes too big for the Erhling .
I was told by someone that the OEM gaskets are great at keeping combustion in but not so good at water.

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I see we are talking about two different things. I'm not placing anything on the heads other than the gaskets which are Victor Reinz. They have the little strips of red sealant at the front and back. The four spots I was referring to are for the two seals that are placed at either end of the block under the valley gasket and two clamps.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Yes, but I don't know how many Ks the engine has done . If over 100 k as the other poster said. If over say 180K then almost surely change the cam, lifters, timing chain and sprockets.

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It's about to hit the 180k mark soon but in terms of fuel economy and smooth running it was fine. I will check the cam but nothing to indicate an issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I think Hylomar would be good to spray on a steel valley gasket ( head side) but not on a composite, maybe on the top of the valley gasket where the manifold goes .

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That was the plan, valley gasket only.

From memory I used flange sealant on the intake plenum (alloy to alloy) and high temp silicon on the rubber end seals of the valley. Cheers

I haven't used the forum for a while (it was around the era of 'Does God exist' thread and the servers started to melt) so this is not the best place for it but feel free to move it.

Just went into Repco and noticed Penrite Oil is almost half price. 6 litres for $26. Pretty good. 1990 prices.

(I'll get the photos soon Andrew. I think the longer you leave it, the colouring becomes more obvious, that was mid week, haven't look this morning)

It's hard to beat Penrite mate. Cheers.

I have heard of the red, blue and yellow paint markings placed on the land rover engines to distinguish between the tolerances of the block.

Red being the best, yellow not the best.

What if you have a green marking. Land Rover green. What does this mean.