Thread: New Head Gaskets

I reckon tin and standard head bolts is the way to go.

Originally Posted by Battler

I reckon tin and standard head bolts is the way to go.

Thanks mate. Keen to know why you reckon stretch bolts. Cheers

The last time I did my heads I contemplated ARP studs but after doing a bit of research on the internet I decided against it.

Check this out: WARNING: ARP stud kit 124-4003 on Rover V8!!! - Tools and Fabrication - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

And this: https://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php't=82795

Cheers

Interesting reading. In the first thread from 2011 the complaint was that the coarse threads protruded above the head surface and did not seat far enough. ARP recommend using a thread chaser to get the threaded hole absolutely clean and to then insert the threaded stud by hand until fully seated....they have probably changed the kit since then but it seems an isolated story.

No one really knows but there are some very good accounts of the studs so I will go that way. One head already has them....getting closer



Thanks Battler

Originally Posted by Battler

Check this out: WARNING: ARP stud kit 124-4003 on Rover V8!!! - Tools and Fabrication - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

But that is the wrong kit for a 4.0/4.6 - with the correct kit the treads are a little longer so can take more torque.

With ARP head studs - you will need kit 157-4301. Not 124-4003 which is for the old Buick engine and the 3.5. There are more differences than just the number of studs.

The threads in the block need to be clean - perfect clean so a tap is needed - the correct thread lubricant needs to be used - ARP supply this and while thread locker can be used it is not needed - really they only need to be hand tight on clean threads with the recommended lubricant. This gives a little wriggle room when you put the heads on and tighten up the nuts if they turn the studs a little more but this should not happen if all the threads are clean and lubed.

Oh - when I got my studs the instructions said to torque to 100 ft lbs which in my view was too high. Here is a link to the current instructions - have been reduced to 70ft lbs so maybe they did have a problem.
[ame]http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf[/ame]

Garry

Many thanks Gary. I have hit a snag. The side that already has head studs on (with composite stock gasket) is being a pain. I cannot undo the rear one closest to the firewall...it stripped by 16mm socket...I suspect that it's at 100 pounds which might have wrecked the stock gasket. It's a pain to get to at the best of times but when tightened down hard it's bloody painful. I might have to spring for a snap on socket and better half inch ratchet cause the one I have hits the firewall so I need a thin but strong jobby. Fun. Cheers

A half inch wobble drive and decent ratchet with a lump of pipe to extend the handle should do it. Cheers