Thread: I own a Land Rover again - Huzzah!

Originally Posted by ScotchRocks

- Is it worth buying a nanocom?
Adam.

I debated for a bit whether the nanocom was worth the $400 odd.
Having cleared a fault that wouldn't allow the engine to start, in the middle of nowhere, I'd say it's paid for itself of already!

I also find it useful as a basic engine monitor (has high coolant alarm programmable)

Congrats on the new Landy! I am interested to see the responses to some of the questions. Just a couple of initial responses:

- The nanocom is great for clearing codes, and for remapping the ECU. Your ECU (NNN) is capable of these remaps, you can have it done remotely by ones like TD5 Alive and Inside TD5. We do have a thread here which shows all the members' nanocoms in the area, have a scroll through that, someone may be close to you.
- Interesting you bring up the plenum, there is much talk about upgrading it at the moment. Check the other thread on the home page.

Sounds like you are preparing it well for your trip. On long trips I've had the odd boost hose come off or give way. Some extra clamps are handy (or upgrade to those good worm drive ones, cant recall the brand name). I have also upgraded the hoses to silicone.

Can I ask a question of you though, you mentioned cleaning the oil from the ECU plug. I do recall that being mentioned, but have never seen specific info on it. Can you point me anywhere?

Thanks for the thread and great to have you here.

Hi Adam,

Welcome to the D2 section!

Vibration at 2250 Rpm - here's the link to some light reading! not sure the thread gives the solution!! but a few thing to check.
The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking

Nanocom - I'm contemplating getting one and there's a group buy that you may be able to get on if your membership was current from previous lurking! Nanocom Group Buy

Water/in fuel lamp - I had this on my last trip, drained at the filter (No water evident), pulled the sensor plug cleaned with contact cleaner and no lamp since.

And this link
Td5 Engines, studs, loom, head removal, FPR, Injectors changes, Alt not charging

Haven't had my D2 very long so I'll leave it to other more knowledgeable members for the other points.

And as for the Australia trip, I did the same about 18 years ago with my bride, we had the most amazing time and spending 18 months in a confined caravan cemented our marriage and I'm happy to say we'll be ticking over 18 years next week!!

Cheers Craig

I'm too noobish with respect to D2s at this stage, but the one point I can help with is:

Originally Posted by ScotchRocks

....

General advice (maybe you guys and gals can chip in):
- Is it worth buying a nanocom?
....

101%!
I reckon the best $400 you'd spend on it.

Consider the immobiliser function, could be great for when they work(properly) and probably save you some $s for insurance purposes .. but!

..ummm, when it goes balls up on 'ya, which is usually at the most inconvenient time (like in the carpark after you've done some shopping on a hot day and there's a very high likelyhood that the ice cream has already melted! .. so imagine how melted it is after 1.5hrs trying to unimmobilise the car!

if that sounds like it happened to me, you'd be wrong. It happened to my brothers TD5 .. with me lending .. this kind of ... moral support!
In the end, the instructions to use the EKA were getting lost in translations, but once we worked it all out, he having had the nanocom for a while prior to this incident, he had the foresight to find the EKA code.

ps. it turned out that the most likely culprit was the heavily abused battery. While I waited with the car after 10 (failed) attempts at the EKA, and then of course it locking us out every so often, he went and bought a new battery, two tries with the new battery and all good again.

pps. no one got any ice cream!

My (personal) experience with nanocoms and D2s is limited. I have an impending V8 with ACE and SLS and have used the nanocom to work out it's logged faults. Good to know what I'm up against prior to getting mine reg'd.

And as said before, the ability to upload any fuel maps will be handy(for the TD5) if you're into that kind'a thing.

If you're going around Aus on a long trip, you wouldn't want to be out there in some far-off-distant-remote-land and not be able to start the car due to some silly electronic error!
After the debacle with brothers TD5 immobiliser, I disabled it on my V8.

So .. is it worth the $400! .. 101%

As for gauges: prioritise an EGT first, and a proper (coolant/engine temperature gauge(or alarm as commented already)
I personally don't like lots of gauges cluttering up spaces, so I went with a 1Gauge(in my D1). Gives 6/7 varying gauge readouts of whatever you prefer to keep track of on an LCD screen. Very simple to fit and worth the $s

But the Arduino project in the projects forum looks more interested as an alternative to the 1Gauge (for my V8 eventually).

The egr code gets disabled after about 30 so it's not a huge issue really.

There are a couple of ways to delete the EGR but as mentioned it requires altering the fuel map.

The most common way is to alter the base EGR map to the maximum value - 16000 at all points.

There is another way to disable EGR which is used in EU3 ROW maps which works by altering the rpm operation threshold. This requires changing a single value.

The threshold mod is more surgical than the commonly used "max the EGR map" mod as it prevents the bulk of the EGR code running at all rather than just pushing the calculated values to a point that results in non-operation.


The neatest way to remove the EGR is to cap the outlet on the t-piece, then remove the EGR modulators and mounting bracket from the inner guard.

If it is a chattering noise at that rev range that appears to come from the centre console area, see LR Series 2 Technical Bulletin No.0022 which may be a solution.

Nick

Thanks for the warm welcome and swift advice everyone.

Looks like Nanocom is on the purchase list.

Also pulling apart the handbrake drum per the Tech Bulletin 22.

I get a happy little smile every time I stop and the SLS does its thing.
Also, it might be my imagination, but I am sure there a particular Land Rover Smell. I think it is a bouquet of Solihull air, oil and declining bank balance.

Has anyone done a successful repair of the plastic bits that hold the metal clips clamping the airbox output to the MAF pipe input?
One and a half (one is in the process of breaking) of mine are broken (although not lost thankfully) and have a date with some epoxy.

Originally Posted by casta66

Congrats on the new Landy! I am interested to see the responses to some of the questions. Just a couple of initial responses:

Can I ask a question of you though, you mentioned cleaning the oil from the ECU plug. I do recall that being mentioned, but have never seen specific info on it. Can you point me anywhere?

Thanks for the thread and great to have you here.

My understanding (I think it was from a UK site)is as follows:

1. Get the injector harness plug fixed (resin fix on the good oil, or I have read some people have had success with high temperature silicone sealant at the back of the plug) so oil stops being transferred to the engine harness through the plug.

Then:

(I have done this as a temporary fix, going to pull out the ECU and check again tomorrow to see how much has accumulated)
2. Remove the ECU box from under the battery cover (next to the jack).
3. Disconnect the red plug (or both for easy access) panic at the amount of oil, but then remember the engine was just running fine so nothing should be damaged. Also oil is generally non conductive and non oxidising so unlikely to damage electronic components. The socket on the ECU side is actually sealed so oil shouldn't get into the ECU itself.
4. Pull both the white plastic pin cover and the red sealing rubber out of the plug.
5. Clean everything (all the oil and dirt and accumulated gunk) out with CRC or other electrical contact cleaner. Be sure to check MSDS for paint / plastic / other compatibility and be careful.
6. Let the volatile cleaner evaporate completely.
7. Gently reassemble.

Apparently if you keep cleaning out the plug, once the injector harness issue is fixed, eventually the oil will stop seeping out. I wouldn't freak out about changing the harness unless you see some significant decrease in conductivity. Perhaps adding chicking volatge drop across harness wires with a multi meter to your weekly maintenance check. Pulling out and inspecting the ECU connection plug for oil is definitely going on my regular oil level, coolant, fluids tyre pressure checklist.

Hope that is helpful to you!

Adam.