Thread: Which key? Nanocom advice and Nitro OBD2 chip tuning box for $3.45

Hi, info about the fob's frequency: key fob frequency, you can't find it out with nanocom, use it without fear to synk the replacement see this
Disco 2 Key programming - YouTube

my advice is to not plug such "thing" into the D2's OBD port, the Td5 is not OBD2 compliant but even if it was i'd stay away from a device like that

a.a.m.o.f .... if your's has a MSB ECU that oddity will have no effect but if it has a NNN one it might mix up the whole thing

A 2002 model will have a 433Mhz key. If the circuit card is not damaged you can reuse it, no need to reprogram the BCU.
You can buy the empty case on ebay cheaply and transfer over the circuit card and key blade.

Thanks for that sierrafery. I'll leave the box alone. I've just had the nod from All4X4 and it's 433MHz. As for the Nanocom I'll give it a go. Thanks for the youtube .

Originally Posted by gazk

A 2002 model will have a 433Mhz key. If the circuit card is not damaged you can reuse it, no need to reprogram the BCU.
You can buy the empty case on ebay cheaply and transfer over the circuit card and key blade.

Yes, the case is stuffed and works only with sticky tape holding the button in place. Wife hates it! Ideally an empty case and a complete unit for coding.
Cheers,
Pete

Originally Posted by Tinggu

.... Obviously I'm being a bit of a scaredy cat but is there any particular caution to "having a go"? ....

Never hurts to sit a play with the nanocom for a few hours, when you have the two hours or so to play with.

Check as many settings as you can.
Probably the most important thing to play with/check up on/and fiddle around with is the immobiliser settings(I'm pretty sure it's under the BCU menu area ... I think).

You should get into the Utility area, and get to the EKA code area.
Read the EKA code. Write down those numbers, save them to a file on your PC, NAS, smartphone, Onedrive, iCloud .. etc, etc ..
When your battery plays up a little, and you plip the unlock button on the remote, and it flashes and doesn't unlock, and then locks you out and you can't get the car started because you did the normal thing and try, and you sit there with that ??? look thinking to yourself .. "what'd I do?" .. you'll be grateful you pre checked the EKA code and tattooed it onto your non primary hand!

If you think my brother had this happen to him a little while back while we had all manner of groceries boiling away in the carpark .. you'd be 100% spot on.
He had the EKA code, but we were not entirely sure how it's supposed to actually be done, and of course we done it wrong too many times, and had to wait for it to clear itself. Smartphone the instructions on how to use the EKA code correctly properly.

I had a nagging feeling that his battery was at fault, so while I stayed with his car, he went off in mine to get a nice big brand new battery, and we retried the EKA code thingy, and his car was mobile once again.

The next day, I not only checked EKA code on my D2(project car ATM) .. I also disabled the immobiliser just to be sure!

What the EKA code. It's a set of instructions(just a set of 4 numbers) that you use to unimmobilise the car when it does so. Those numbers are instructions on using the key in the drivers door to turn the lock a specific number of times in one direction then the other, and back again and forward again.
eg. you may see 1, 13, 8, 5 as your EKA code. key in the drivers door, turn it one way for a few secs to activate the EKA mode disably system, and then turn the key to lock once(ie. the 1), then unlock x 13!!(ie. the 13), then lock again x 8, and unlock again x5.
If it works, it plips, and the immobiliser LED turns off, and you go again.

You'll also see a button that says [SET]. That's used to set the EKA code to a sensible range of values. I mean 13x in one way and then 8 in the other .. good security, but I think a bit too paranoid.
We both set ours to much easier(ie. lower) values to reemmber .. but not 1, 1, 1, 1 !!

Even tho I disabled my immobiliser, I still wanted an easier to remember and more importantly .. use!! code set.

So there's something to tinker with I guess.
Just pray that it doesn't happen to you at the most inappropriate/inconvenient time!

Originally Posted by AK83

Never hurts to sit a play with the nanocom for a few hours, when you have the two hours or so to play with.

Check as many settings as you can.
Probably the most important thing to play with/check up on/and fiddle around with is the immobiliser settings(I'm pretty sure it's under the BCU menu area ... I think).


So there's something to tinker with I guess.
Just pray that it doesn't happen to you at the most inappropriate/inconvenient time!

That is really helpful stuff so many thanks. I'll probably print that out and work through it bit by bit. Thanks heaps.
Pete

Originally Posted by Tinggu

That is really helpful stuff so many thanks. I'll probably print that out and work through it bit by bit. Thanks heaps.
Pete

What you're better off doing is to find the instructions to the EKA code. Print them out and pop them in the glovebox.
With the car immobilised, you can still get into it, it's just that the alarm sounds(so is kind'a embarrasing!) and you pop the key in the ign to stop it.
When it becomes immobilised you just can't start it.

For mine, I keep a note on my smartphone tho.