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Thread: TD5 ceramic coated manifold - should the heat shield go back on ontop?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nismine01 View Post
    I left the heat shield off mine once, set the bonnet sound proofing on fire!!

    I soon put it back on.

    Mike
    I've had my heat shield off for about 6 years now, removed my bonnet sound proofing at about the same time, had no problem with my exhaust manifold in that time. I think your bonnet sound proofing would have only caught on fire if it was saturated with oil, which is another problem, altogether.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  2. #22
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    Ditto - I have a stock original manifold and have had no heat shield for around three years now and see no problems. I run higher than factory boost and my experience is that that keeps my EGT's well down compared to pre mod.
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by oztayls View Post
    No idea myself except that I know that copper is softer and is a better conductor of heat than steel so makes sense in that respect. It's not new science as copper nuts on studs are used by a number of motor brands
    Actually, I learned something the other day from a LR parts vendor regarding the snapping studs. This is what they wrote me:

    "We have lots of experience in this area, the real problem was inadequate clearance for the studs whilst the manifold expanded and contracted, once a warped manifold has been linished straight they don't tend to warp any more, the stud holes should be drilled out to provide extra clearance. New Genuine serrated nuts correctly torqued (25Nm), longer shanked studs, and greased manifold gaskets. Hope this helps."

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oztayls View Post
    Actually, I learned something the other day from a LR parts vendor regarding the snapping studs. This is what they wrote me:

    "We have lots of experience in this area, the real problem was inadequate clearance for the studs whilst the manifold expanded and contracted, once a warped manifold has been linished straight they don't tend to warp any more, the stud holes should be drilled out to provide extra clearance. New Genuine serrated nuts correctly torqued (25Nm), longer shanked studs, and greased manifold gaskets. Hope this helps."
    IM guessing they mean greased studs not manifold gaskets

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