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From what i can see it looks like its dripping from the bottom hose i have checked the top one its tight but how in H do you get to the bottom one to check i cant even get my hand in the gap ,also the electrical contact is wet with diesel
Does any one know a diesel mechanic in the Devonport area of Tassie i might have to take it to one if all else fails
Found this on youtube, hope it helps..
https://youtu.be/Bpm8aQTIM64
I had a look at the prices. Thud, (hits the floor) Depends if you go genuine or not. Hang, on nurse just entering the ICU to see why my BP has shot through the roof! [bigsmile] Aound $300 for genuine (pulse rate climbs ICU nurse looks nervous) or $75 plus $20.00 postage from England for a britpart. I'd be inclined to get the genuine as I wouldn't want to stuff around with the FPR again and britpart seems to have a reputation for not being as good as genuine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
Okay... I've pulled together a few pics of the job - access is a pain and I have got hands like a monkeys foot but still managed it okay, the trick is take your time. Suggest that you read Blacknights tutorial as well before starting anything - it will boost your confidence.Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
1/ chock the wheels jack and remove the driver side front wheel and place a chassis stand in an appropriate position to support the vehicle - remove the jack
2/ thoroughly degrease and clean the area around the FPR - this is a good opportunity to get used to the access options and work out if you have the tools for the job and how best to get them in there.
3/ remove the old FPR (refer to Blacknights tutorial)
4/ fit guide pins, I used 2 (again refer to Blacknights tutorial)
5/ have a few goes at fitting and removal with the old FPR to practice working within the confined area - practice makes perfect
6/ now you have had sufficient practice and know all the moves to get the new FPR into position clean the mating surface, remove and replace the tiny the O ring with the new one in the kit (I didn't bother with the strainer) then slide the gasket onto the guide pins and push it up and onto the exposed threads - it will hold there whilst you withdraw you hand pick up the new FPR block and work it thru and up onto the guide pins - slide a rubber gromment onto one guide pin to hold the FPR from sliding off.
7/ slide the FPR block and gasket upto the mating face and whilst holding the block firmly in position with one hand get your other hand in and remove one guide pin (dont let the block move) withdraw the pin and your hand then grab a mounting bolt and get you hand back in there and insert the bolt where the guide pin was removed and make it finger tight - RELAX!! and have a refreshment.
8/ now the bottom bolt goes in but you can not see to do it from the top looking down - study the old FPR so you know where the bolt hole is in relation to the other components that you can see but block your view of the bottom bolt hole. When you manage to get the bolt into the hole a 1/2 turn to engage the thread and hold the bolt in is all you'll be able to manage.. withdraw your hand and RELAX!
9/ now get your head down into the wheel well and you will be able to eyeball the head of the bottom bolt looking over the top of the chassis rail. Two extensions and a socket will reach the bolt head - do it up finger tight.
10/ back onto your feet reach in from the top and remove the last guide pin and install the bolt and finger tighten. RELAX
11/ torque up the bolts connect the pipes and sensor plug.
Attachment 122649
Attachment 122650
Attachment 122651
Attachment 122652
Attachment 122653
Attachment 122654
or $75 plus $11 express from your local vendor [bigwhistle], since it's only a stainless steel mesh filter, the Britpart ones are ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
........ I thought the photo record was incomplete without a pic of the tools i bought for the job (all came from the familiar big red n green shed) :-
Attachment 122744
use all below together for the bottom bolt
3/8 drive stubby ratchet handle
3/8 drive 8inch extension
3/8 drive 12inch extension
3/8 to 1/2inch drive adapter
1/2inch drive extended socket
and for the top 2 bolts use
3/8 drive stubby ratchet handle
3/8 to 1/2inch drive adapter
1/2inch drive extended socket
NB: use torque wrench in place of the stubby ratchet for final tightening.
PS: the FPR was sourced from my local vendor [bigwhistle] thanks Mario.
IMHO......
*Some have had success with repair kits, others not so.
*Non genuine complete units such as Britparts wont last long.
*A genuine (which is what I always use) while expensive (although compared to a major fuel leak over hot vehicle parts??) should then be good for another 10 years or so.
Regards
Daz
Sometimes the obvious is not so obvious [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
It gets me the mind set to quote uk prices plus postage but hello how about supporting a local company in the same state and you just might get a pleasant surprise price wise with after sales support if needed[thumbsupbig]
Well i have got my fuel leak fixed, being no mechanic i asked around and was told about a new bloke that has just opened up ,so off i went, dropped it off at 8am picked Disco up at 11am ,he pressure tested the system, steam cleaned the engine and gear box,took off unit replaced all rubber washers new gasket ,re tested 3hours work with part $300,[bigsmile1] at the present moment better than the LR mechanic told me, around $700 to fix it
Happy that you're happy but "new gasket" sourced, delivered, and installed in 3 hours hmmm!
