Thread: Diesel fuel preasure regulator

Found this on youtube, hope it helps..

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

It should be said " And clean the strainer CAREFULLY!!!! which is beneath the FPR in the head with petrol or something while you are already there, as some over zealous cleaners have found out in the past and fell over at the price of this little bugger and had to be rushed by ambulance to hospital of suspected Heart attack

Cheers, Mario

I had a look at the prices. Thud, (hits the floor) Depends if you go genuine or not. Hang, on nurse just entering the ICU to see why my BP has shot through the roof! Aound $300 for genuine (pulse rate climbs ICU nurse looks nervous) or $75 plus $20.00 postage from England for a britpart. I'd be inclined to get the genuine as I wouldn't want to stuff around with the FPR again and britpart seems to have a reputation for not being as good as genuine.

Originally Posted by onebob

I have replaced mine just before Easter. Is it hard NO! is it difficult YES! Do I have hints YES did I take the manifold off NO. Did I repair the old regulator NO - i REPLACED IT - cos its not worth stuffing around sourcing the individual bits you will need. For the job vs buying the complete kit ....and you get to practice the assembly "dance steps" with the old unit thus ensuring a happy ending when you finally commit the new unit to finish the job

Okay... I've pulled together a few pics of the job - access is a pain and I have got hands like a monkeys foot but still managed it okay, the trick is take your time. Suggest that you read Blacknights tutorial as well before starting anything - it will boost your confidence.

1/ chock the wheels jack and remove the driver side front wheel and place a chassis stand in an appropriate position to support the vehicle - remove the jack

2/ thoroughly degrease and clean the area around the FPR - this is a good opportunity to get used to the access options and work out if you have the tools for the job and how best to get them in there.

3/ remove the old FPR (refer to Blacknights tutorial)

4/ fit guide pins, I used 2 (again refer to Blacknights tutorial)

5/ have a few goes at fitting and removal with the old FPR to practice working within the confined area - practice makes perfect

6/ now you have had sufficient practice and know all the moves to get the new FPR into position clean the mating surface, remove and replace the tiny the O ring with the new one in the kit (I didn't bother with the strainer) then slide the gasket onto the guide pins and push it up and onto the exposed threads - it will hold there whilst you withdraw you hand pick up the new FPR block and work it thru and up onto the guide pins - slide a rubber gromment onto one guide pin to hold the FPR from sliding off.

7/ slide the FPR block and gasket upto the mating face and whilst holding the block firmly in position with one hand get your other hand in and remove one guide pin (dont let the block move) withdraw the pin and your hand then grab a mounting bolt and get you hand back in there and insert the bolt where the guide pin was removed and make it finger tight - RELAX!! and have a refreshment.

8/ now the bottom bolt goes in but you can not see to do it from the top looking down - study the old FPR so you know where the bolt hole is in relation to the other components that you can see but block your view of the bottom bolt hole. When you manage to get the bolt into the hole a 1/2 turn to engage the thread and hold the bolt in is all you'll be able to manage.. withdraw your hand and RELAX!

9/ now get your head down into the wheel well and you will be able to eyeball the head of the bottom bolt looking over the top of the chassis rail. Two extensions and a socket will reach the bolt head - do it up finger tight.

10/ back onto your feet reach in from the top and remove the last guide pin and install the bolt and finger tighten. RELAX

11/ torque up the bolts connect the pipes and sensor plug.

guide pin.jpg


fit gasket.jpg


fit fuel block.jpg

bottom access.jpg

bottom bolt.jpg

torque.jpg

Originally Posted by Bohica

I had a look at the prices. Thud, (hits the floor) Depends if you go genuine or not. Hang, on nurse just entering the ICU to see why my BP has shot through the roof! Aound $300 for genuine (pulse rate climbs ICU nurse looks nervous) or $75 plus $20.00 postage from England for a britpart. .

or $75 plus $11 express from your local vendor , since it's only a stainless steel mesh filter, the Britpart ones are ok.

........ I thought the photo record was incomplete without a pic of the tools i bought for the job (all came from the familiar big red n green shed) :-
Screen Shot 2017-05-01 at 6.20.30 PM.jpg
use all below together for the bottom bolt
3/8 drive stubby ratchet handle
3/8 drive 8inch extension
3/8 drive 12inch extension
3/8 to 1/2inch drive adapter
1/2inch drive extended socket


and for the top 2 bolts use
3/8 drive stubby ratchet handle
3/8 to 1/2inch drive adapter
1/2inch drive extended socket

NB: use torque wrench in place of the stubby ratchet for final tightening.

PS: the FPR was sourced from my local vendor thanks Mario.

IMHO......
*Some have had success with repair kits, others not so.
*Non genuine complete units such as Britparts wont last long.
*A genuine (which is what I always use) while expensive (although compared to a major fuel leak over hot vehicle parts??) should then be good for another 10 years or so.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

or $75 plus $11 express from your local vendor , since it's only a stainless steel mesh filter, the Britpart ones are ok.

Sometimes the obvious is not so obvious
It gets me the mind set to quote uk prices plus postage but hello how about supporting a local company in the same state and you just might get a pleasant surprise price wise with after sales support if needed

Well i have got my fuel leak fixed, being no mechanic i asked around and was told about a new bloke that has just opened up ,so off i went, dropped it off at 8am picked Disco up at 11am ,he pressure tested the system, steam cleaned the engine and gear box,took off unit replaced all rubber washers new gasket ,re tested 3hours work with part $300, at the present moment better than the LR mechanic told me, around $700 to fix it