Thread: D2 conquers the Cape

Originally Posted by 1nando

Don't know how you did it without:
37s
Front and rear lockers
Axles and cvs
A toyota badge
A diesel engine
Diff ratios


In fact it's a miracle.........how can a lightly modified LR do such a thing?
A lesson to be learnt out of this for a lot of people on this site.

Good on ya mate. For those that are confused please note the satire in regards to mods.

Two yrs back,some Pootrol club were struggling to climb the northern bank of Palm Ck.
Not one of the locked,lifted, vehicles did it without a winch,or tow.

On the third attempt,my son drove it in the Puma.Stock with a 40mm lift,set of BFG Mt's.

They couldn't believe it.

Later on he was camped at the top,and a local came over and congratulated him as the only vehicle that he had herd of that had driven that bank that year so far.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The viscous fan PULLS air through the radiator.
If water gets behind it the blades bend forward and hit the radiator.
If you have a bow wave and are going at the correct speed there will be no water high enough in the engine bay to reach behind the fan.
I broke one in one of the creeks north of Twin falls as you had to do a 180 turn and I lost the bow wave. This was in an RRC 3.9 with a 300TDI viscous fan. The 300 TDI fans are good because they are nylon/fibre filled so when the blades break they stay attached to the hub, vs a RRC fan which is just nylon and self destructs. So I didn't lose the radiator and just cut off the approximately opposite blades.

A bra is good but no use if you stop or lose your bow wave.

I wonder how your headlights are after that? My RRC headlights and spots filled with water and I had to empty them out wash them with metho and let them dry in the sun when I did 800MM in Litchfield.

IMHO it's not a great idea to run in deep water as the axles can get water in, the ball joints on a D2 can be destroyed, and if you stop you lose your auto controller, and maybe the BCU. Water to the dash is automatic write off, as told to me by an insurance adjuster I know.

I HATE DEEP WATER
Regards Philip A

Headlights good. I had sealed the parking bulbs with silicon. Spotties good. No auto so no switch gear there. ECU is up well off floor in the D2 and water didn't get in. Cheers

As i have already said,my youngest son is travelling the cape at the moment.He sent this to me yesterday.These are parts changed in a navara,and a 100series,from what he said.All the vehicles on the group have had some major dramas,except the D2 V8.

i haven't seen a clutch that badly wrecked for a long time.

I never had trouble with the main headlights getting water in them.

The horn is what dies and thens blows a fuse which also feeds the cruise control.

The fog lights seem to fill up with water though.

The large viscous fan will cycle while the vehicle is in motion,sucking air over the engine,particularly in hot weather.It can be heard cycling.The small fan that blows air into the rad, cycles when the AC is operating,if needed,and also operates if the engine coolant temperature is very high.

Driving west on the track across Moreton island in summer,i could always here the viscous fan cycle on the D2a.The track has long uphill sections,often very soft sand, high banks on each side,so the vehicle noise bounces back,and the fan cycling can be easily heard,

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The viscous fan PULLS air through the radiator.


I HATE DEEP WATER
Regards Philip A

Good call, of course, when you think about it, why would you want to push the hot engine air through the radiator. My bad read of RAVE. Now would be a good time to ask any member with a TD5 if indeed they have damaged their radiator in a deep water crossing.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The viscous fan PULLS air through the radiator.
If water gets behind it the blades bend forward and hit the radiator.
If you have a bow wave and are going at the correct speed there will be no water high enough in the engine bay to reach behind the fan.
I broke one in one of the creeks north of Twin falls as you had to do a 180 turn and I lost the bow wave. This was in an RRC 3.9 with a 300TDI viscous fan. The 300 TDI fans are good because they are nylon/fibre filled so when the blades break they stay attached to the hub, vs a RRC fan which is just nylon and self destructs. So I didn't lose the radiator and just cut off the approximately opposite blades.

A bra is good but no use if you stop or lose your bow wave.

I wonder how your headlights are after that? My RRC headlights and spots filled with water and I had to empty them out wash them with metho and let them dry in the sun when I did 800MM in Litchfield.

IMHO it's not a great idea to run in deep water as the axles can get water in, the ball joints on a D2 can be destroyed, and if you stop you lose your auto controller, and maybe the BCU. Water to the dash is automatic write off, as told to me by an insurance adjuster I know.

I HATE DEEP WATER
Regards Philip A

According to LR, D2s are good for 500mm stock.

From the DII owners manual:

WADING

The maximum advisable wading depth is
20 inches (0,5 m).
Severe electrical damage may occur if the
vehicle remains stationary for any length of
time when the water level is above the door
sills.
If the depth of water is likely to exceed 20
inches (0,5 m), the following precautions
should be observed:
•Fix a plastic sheet in front of the radiator
grille to prevent water from soaking the
engine and mud from blocking the radiator.
•Remove the CD autochanger*.
•Ensure that the silt bed beneath the water is
free of obstacles and firm enough to
support the vehicle's weight and provide
sufficient traction.
•Ensure that the engine air intake is clear of
the water level.
•Select a low gear and maintain sufficient
throttle to prevent the engine from stalling.
This is particularly important if the exhaust
pipe is under water.
•Drive slowly into the water and accelerate to
a speed which causes a bow wave to form;
then maintain that speed.
At all times, keep all the doors fully closed.
After wading
•Immediately after wading, remove any
protective covering from in front of the
radiator grille.
•Drive the vehicle a short distance and apply
the foot brake to check that the brakes are
fully effective.
•DO NOT rely on the parking brake to hold the
vehicle stationary until the transmission has
thoroughly dried out; in the meantime, leave
the vehicle with the gearbox selector moved
to park (‘P’).
•If the water was particularly muddy, remove
any blockages (mud and leaves) from the
radiator to reduce the risk of overheating.
•If deep water is regularly negotiated, check
all oils for signs of water contamination -
contaminated oil can be identified through
its ‘milky’ appearance. In addition, check the
air filter element for water ingress and
replace if wet - consult a Land Rover dealer
if necessary.

I assume the "severe electrical damage" refers to the location of various modules....

A 2' lift obviously adds 50mm. Everything else would seem to be covered by the various mods most of us have, such as snorkels and breathers.

Even the puddles on the Winter Wombat can be deeper than half a metre. Last year Chris, in his HiLux, and me in the ratty old D1, crossed the river downstream where it was easily up to 50mm below the mirrors. No water anywhere it shouldn't have been, bar in my shoes.

Yep 2 inch lift and 3/4rs of an inch from bigger tyres (31 inch). The breathers as stock are way up high (unlike many other 4wds). ECU is high as are fuse boxes. Yes there are connections for sensors on gearbox and 02 sensors etc but they drain out and don't stop you. Cheers

Originally Posted by scarry

Driving west on the track across Moreton island in summer,i could always here the viscous fan cycle on the D2a.The track has long uphill sections,often very soft sand, high banks on each side,so the vehicle noise bounces back,and the fan cycling can be easily heard,

Do you think it was the viscous fan, or the A/C compressor cutting in and out?