Thread: Exhaust manifold problem and a question

Did mine last week changed the down pipe to a non cat one at the same time. My manifold is not ceramic coated couldn't justify the extra $300 at this stage. Found it to an easy job only trouble was a rounded off bolt on the chassis cross member which came out eventually. Not sure about the m10 thread as I did not convert mine but slow and easy I'm sure would be the way to go

If it was me I'd be taking it off again and doing it again to be 100% it was done right.
Don't want to warp the manifold again if one of the studs lets go!

But maybe if you're careful you could drill and tap the new thread?? The manifold would also help keep the drill and tap square?????

so long as your carefull you would be able to drill the head and retap with out desterbing the gasket where it matters, around the stud it dont matter much,
as for the m10 stud it will only affect you if you do it up to m10 bolt torques so if you do it up to the same torque as the rest you will be fine if you are not sure if the torque will be enough to keep the nut on double nut it,

have you checked the feed pipe from the power steer resivor to the pump for rubbing? and done something to stop it rubbing?

Good point about torque. I'll do it the same and double nut it. I'll see if I can get the same cone nuts that the wurth studs came with. I dont think they will be working loose like the stock ones.

The other 9 studs are new and all torqued up ok. so I think doing the other one to the same torque should be ok.

Or maybe I should put M10s on both top and bottom on No. 1 & No. 5

Yes I had done the power steering hose previously as it was rubbing. It's been tied up and out of the way for quite a while now.

I'm with Lemo. Pull it off. Gaskets are cheap compared to the potential problems. Number five seems to be the worst spot. If you haven't run it, the gaskets will probably be OK anyway.

I say this because this has been the worst problem I've experienced with my D2. I know people are going to remind me about my auto, but that is a problem with a person, not the car. The manifold studs can cost you a head. Fix it once, fix it properly. Or, chase it around for a few years. I tried that, and it wasn't as much fun as I'd hoped.

Mine has M8 at the centre three, and M10 for the rest.

Just wondering - is there a reason why u can't just change them all to M10?

because more work lol

yeh I was hoping to avoid the more work.

But I've gone out and bought 4 x m10 studs. So will pull off the manifold during the week and drill and tap N0.1 & No.5.

Does anyone have any tips for how to drill out the gasket without destroying it. I was thinking I would lay it flat on some scrap ply drill some m8 holes for the middle couple of cylinders and use the removed M8 studs to locate it. then put the manifold over the gasket and drill through. That way it should keep it flat and stop it twisting if the drill bit bites in.

What torque would I do them up to? I think from memory the M8 are done up to 25nm. I cant think of anything else at M10 size on the car that is going into Ali for a reference point.