Thread: ATB Diffs

Originally Posted by Robmacca

Good to know.... One would assume that it would be advisable to run H/D axles due to the extra stress of applying the brakes to gain traction??

rob

Likely not with ATBs. Whether it's your brake caliper, or a bit of grip on the ground, that's stopping a wheel from freely wheelspinning - you typically never get full engine torque directed to the other half shaft.

The above is another rarely mentioned positive in favour of ATBs, no real need to upgrade the rest of the driveline to HD. In contrast, the common wisdom around fitting a locker is you should upgrade ALL your driveline to HD components.

That said: you can break a half shaft (or cv etc) easily with any kind of diff just being silly. eg: when a wheel is off the ground and wildly spinning - then touches down hard with power still on...

Sometimes brute power is the only way up...you just hope it all holds together...

Cheers

IF I ever do decide to upgrade my drivetrain it will be with the ATB's.
I love the way they are "Set and Forget" NO need for an onboard compressor or extra wires, Just install the diff and it will do all the thinking for me.
Also there is No need to engage/disengage the diff like you have to with the lockers and Nothing to go wrong with the air or electric supply that is needed to make them function.
For me the choice in favour for the ATB diff is a "No Brainer"

Originally Posted by tact

Likely not with ATBs. Whether it's your brake caliper, or a bit of grip on the ground, that's stopping a wheel from freely wheelspinning - you typically never get full engine torque directed to the other half shaft.

The above is another rarely mentioned positive in favour of ATBs, no real need to upgrade the rest of the driveline to HD. In contrast, the common wisdom around fitting a locker is you should upgrade ALL your driveline to HD components.

That said: you can break a half shaft (or cv etc) easily with any kind of diff just being silly. eg: when a wheel is off the ground and wildly spinning - then touches down hard with power still on...

IF the ATB does "90%" of what a locker does as some claim then it has to be nearing the forces of a locker, except that it also has the shock forces of the wheel spin required to make the ATB work and the ETC working on it. If the ATB isn't adding much additional stress to the driveline then its not doing much additional at all. Its not the general loading of the axle the breaks them, its the impact loading of when it grabs traction while spinning.

Thanks for posting Simon. I was wondering about that as it didn't make a lot of sense to me. I would have thought if anything and on the straight ahead the locker would allow more gentle driving.

Cheers

Originally Posted by trout1105

IF I ever do decide to upgrade my drivetrain it will be with the ATB's.
I love the way they are "Set and Forget" NO need for an onboard compressor or extra wires, Just install the diff and it will do all the thinking for me.
Also there is No need to engage/disengage the diff like you have to with the lockers and Nothing to go wrong with the air or electric supply that is needed to make them function.
For me the choice in favour for the ATB diff is a "No Brainer"

I'm still undecided which way I will go.....but the argument about compressor, switches, wiring etc isn't really there......

I had twin ARB's on my previous defender and never had an issue for 12 years (did damaged front airline right at the start due to poor routing by previous owner), used the compressor heaps and with it being permanently installed was very handy. If you're relying on locker for your trip most would be airing down therefore a compressor is a default item

Price has a lot to do with selecting locker as the auto lockers are very affordable.

Modern air compressors ARE very reliable But if you don't need it then it is one more thing that won't have the opportunity to let you down.

whata the general price for ATB's? say ashcroft