Thread: D2 auto modification to select manual mode when in high range.

Originally Posted by AdamHunter

This is what we do as LR tragics , we tinker and look for the next little (or big) mod and all the time
Justifying it in some way. You can of course argue there is nothing wrong with the std auto and converter behind the TD5, but once you start making more power and pulling heavier loads and asking it to do so up big hills and through soft sand, that's when you realise (very much so when you have the telemetry to see the way various temps change) that improvements can be made.

Merry Christmas to all

We probably need to clarify that we are not talking about modifying the standard auto box, just how it responds to the many inputs into it's management system. The making of more power is not detrimental to the operation of the auto box which rather than kicking down and revving hard under load will hold lockup in third or fourth better because of changes to those inputs. I recently bought a second 2002 D2 with no centre muffler and no EGR and after a required replacement engine I discovered it has a heap of power and will accelerate hard from 80k without coming out of lockup and kicking down (up hills as well). I presume it has been chipped as the difference in power is significant. Interestingly I can press reset to 110k on the cruise control at 80k in lockup fourth and it will hold lockup all the way but accelerate hard in 2 stages something my 2001 D2 could never do without coming out of lockup and revving it's you know whats off. There was an earlier post that mentioned the importance of making sure all things are right if you want to get the best out of the auto box and that is important from my experience. After owning TD5 D2s for over 12 years I'm really impressed how this auto box performs with the extra power. This is why I think having an override switch is unnecessary and will lead to auto damage if changes should happen while still in lockup.
Nick

Originally Posted by Pippin

We probably need to clarify that we are not talking about modifying the standard auto box, just how it responds to the many inputs into it's management system. The making of more power is not detrimental to the operation of the auto box which rather than kicking down and revving hard under load will hold lockup in third or fourth better because of changes to those inputs. I recently bought a second 2002 D2 with no centre muffler and no EGR and after a required replacement engine I discovered it has a heap of power and will accelerate hard from 80k without coming out of lockup and kicking down (up hills as well). I presume it has been chipped as the difference in power is significant. Interestingly I can press reset to 110k on the cruise control at 80k in lockup fourth and it will hold lockup all the way but accelerate hard in 2 stages something my 2001 D2 could never do without coming out of lockup and revving it's you know whats off. There was an earlier post that mentioned the importance of making sure all things are right if you want to get the best out of the auto box and that is important from my experience. After owning TD5 D2s for over 12 years I'm really impressed how this auto box performs with the extra power. This is why I think having an override switch is unnecessary and will lead to auto damage if changes should happen while still in lockup.
Nick

Yes 100% it's a great box once locked, in fact I'm amazed at its ability to tractor up an incline in locked 3rd or 4th with 2 tonnes of van hanging off the back. My issue is not having a lockup in 2nd for really steep hills towing or sand work where getting to 70 in 3rd is impractical or again where I'm towing and say pull out and onto a long incline where getting to 3rd/70 is torturous.
I even think locking up 10km/h earlier in 3/4 would be great under mild throttle.

Originally Posted by AdamHunter

Yes 100% it's a great box once locked, in fact I'm amazed at its ability to tractor up an incline in locked 3rd or 4th with 2 tonnes of van hanging off the back. My issue is not having a lockup in 2nd for really steep hills towing or sand work where getting to 70 in 3rd is impractical or again where I'm towing and say pull out and onto a long incline where getting to 3rd/70 is torturous.
I even think locking up 10km/h earlier in 3/4 would be great under mild throttle.

Fair comment! If you can find a way of doing this without the risk of the auto changing while still locked it would be good.
Nick

Originally Posted by Pippin

Fair comment! If you can find a way of doing this without the risk of the auto changing while still locked it would be good.
Nick

Back in the day when I fiddled with a GM Turbo 700 trans conversion (not on a LR) I fitted a micro switch to the loud pedal. It unlocked the converter for the purpose of 80% plus throttle gear changes.

Originally Posted by shack

So, emanwa,

Was that by earthing pin 32 on the eat?

Yes - and also adding a 12 ohm resistor on the earth connection.

Originally Posted by Pippin

Fair comment! If you can find a way of doing this without the risk of the auto changing while still locked it would be good.
Nick

that's why l think what i have in mind will work as it will hold the gear the same as it behaves in low range. if you come to near stall or stop it will unlock.
I should have time in the next week or so to wire up a switch and give it a go.
will be using a spdt switch to connect the input of the TCM to ground and leave the input to the ecu uneffected .

Anyone ever looked into the auto ECU and modifying the program?

I would love to find someone with the ability to do this, I have tried looking a couple of years ago but to no avail, I guess you need to be able to both decipher the code and be able to reflash, this would be a great mod to go hand in hand with the bigger TD5 converters,

Dave