Thread: 10p to 16p disco 2

Originally Posted by Chidz

Yeah I was thinking of using my original harness and the bolt ons including throttle body etc from the 10p so it would just plug straight in and getting a new ecu/remap whichever is required to use the green injectors?? Still unsure about it yet.

The throttle body (TP sensor) became a 3 track sensor from VIN 297137. depending on your VIN it may be a 3 track despite it being a 10P engine. The manual states that "Three track TP sensors cannot be fitted to vehicles previously fitted with two tack TP sensors." I think this is because the wiring loom to the throttle body does not contain the relevant wiring. If you have a two track TP you will have to program that into any new NNN ECU. which is a simple process with a Nanocom or Hawkeye. Irrespective of whether it is two or three track there will be no performance change.
Nick

Originally Posted by Pippin

The throttle body (TP sensor) became a 3 track sensor from VIN 297137. depending on your VIN it may be a 3 track despite it being a 10P engine. The manual states that "Three track TP sensors cannot be fitted to vehicles previously fitted with two tack TP sensors." I think this is because the wiring loom to the throttle body does not contain the relevant wiring. If you have a two track TP you will have to program that into any new NNN ECU. which is a simple process with a Nanocom or Hawkeye. Irrespective of whether it is two or three track there will be no performance change.
Nick

Ok by that my vin is previous to the one stated so that means I have a two track sensor, which means I’ll need to acquire a NNN ECU, then I will be able to use my 10p bolt ons... correct?

Originally Posted by Chidz

Ok by that my vin is previous to the one stated so that means I have a two track sensor, which means I’ll need to acquire a NNN ECU, then I will be able to use my 10p bolt ons... correct?

I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.

Originally Posted by strangy

I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.

Thanks for smoothing that out for me. I’ll use the 10p egr stuff or just delete it which I was thinking of doing anyway (I’m sure there will be a post about that somewhere?)

So If anyone has a 16p fuel reg, msg me please! And I’ll need to program the new injector codes too... right. Getting somewhere! Thanks guys for being patient while I understand everything, as I’m trying to get it all fitted up by the end of the weekend!!

Originally Posted by Chidz

.....

So If anyone has a 16p fuel reg, msg me please! And I’ll need to program the new injector codes too... right. Getting somewhere! Thanks guys for being patient while I understand everything, as I’m trying to get it all fitted up by the end of the weekend!!

I'd say just get a new one from the reputable sources(eg. Roverlord).
This thing is such a PITA to have to remove/reinstall, you're better off doing it whilst you have access, and forget about it again for the next 100K+ klms(ie. life of the engine).

Originally Posted by strangy

I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.

Quite correct strangy. I should have said don't worry about the throttle body which i presume meant TP sensor unless you decide to change the ECU

Without reading all the posts....
The short sweet answer is.... Bolt it up it will work, 16P to 10 or visa versa.

----
Long windedness...
items worth doing while "new" engine is out.
*Engine mounts.
*Replace all the cooling hoses, thermostat
*Get all codes of injectors.
*Replace injector seals if injectors are already out.
*Injector harness.
*Cam cover gasket.
*Front cam round plastic thing oring.
*engine oil cooler.
*Water pump.
*Exhaust manifold.
*Drop EURO 3 cooling/exhaust bits.
*EGR blank kit.
*Serpentine belt tensioner and belt.
*recon/new starter motor.
*Fuel pressure regulator.
*once in get injectors programmed in.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Without reading all the posts....
The short sweet answer is.... Bolt it up it will work, 16P to 10 or visa versa.

----
Long windedness...
items worth doing while "new" engine is out.
*Engine mounts.
*Replace all the cooling hoses, thermostat
*Get all codes of injectors.
*Replace injector seals if injectors are already out.
*Injector harness.
*Cam cover gasket.
*Front cam round plastic thing oring.
*engine oil cooler.
*Water pump.
*Exhaust manifold.
*Drop EURO 3 cooling/exhaust bits.
*EGR blank kit.
*Serpentine belt tensioner and belt.
*recon/new starter motor.
*Fuel pressure regulator.
*once in get injectors programmed in.

I have pretty much renewed all of those things, cheers mate... I’m not taking any risks with using any of the old stuff, I don’t want to have to do everything all over again... I have ended up ordering a new fuel reg too, so I’m not taking anything by chance! Just need to find someone to program the injectors for me then I think it will be a goer! I’m just waiting on parts to arrive then hopefully be going again by late next week! Thanks for the help everyone