I have used a jam jar and a length of clear plastic hose to great effect for decades now to bleed the brakes on various differant cars/tractors/trucks, Total cost of about $3-$5 .[thumbsupbig]
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I have used a jam jar and a length of clear plastic hose to great effect for decades now to bleed the brakes on various differant cars/tractors/trucks, Total cost of about $3-$5 .[thumbsupbig]
For the last twenty five years mines been an old plastic screw top container with a hole drilled in the lid where the clear plastic tube pushes through.Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
Nothing spills when you inevitably kick it over! [emoji23]
I did have to make a pressure bleeder for Defender brakes.
It screws onto the MC.
Conventional bleeding will not get a pedal on the bloody things, they either have to be pressure or suction bled.
I like the idea of using a lid on the jar, I didn't think of doing that [thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Ok very funny LR, what is the socket for the bolt that hold the caliper on? It looks like a 12 pointed star. I'm sure that a 12 pointed socket will not work, it will round of the edges. Do not ask me how I know[bawl]
I need a name so I can go to a tool shop and buy one.
I've sprayed the bolts with WD40, as there is a theme of bolts and screws being siezed or rusted in on this car.
Thanks
Julian
Sorry, they're just standard double hex sockets like most good quality sockets have been until recent times. Modern socket sets tend to have too many funny shaped six point sockets these days, i don't use them if I have a choice. You'll soon know if you've got a well fitting socket on there, they work just as intended. The weirdo ones are called tri-square, quite a different tooth shape and not to be found on a D2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
I told ya it's a star shape! Any normal star socket works I cant remember the size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Have you worked it out? I can check on the D1 but I can't guarantee it's the same size.
Cheers Jim
Caliper proper? .... or caliper bracket?
Caliper comes off with the two bolts on the caliper cradle/bracket.
Caliper cradle is a separate item again.
From memory either 17mm or 19mm, 12 point or double hex ... as beeutey said.
Note that both D2's I've done had so much crud build up on the bolt heads, that the socket doesn't slide onto the head easily, so you have to either jimmy it on(as the crud falls off), or remove crud on the bolt head first.
On brothers, we removed the caliper from the cradle(ie. one step caliper removal).
But on my part D2, I removed the caliper off the cradle first, then removed the cradle. Made it 99% easier to remove the harder to get too cradle bolts that way.
@ Jim, D1 is different.
I must say at least it's one of the 1st bolts you pull off. You can still put the wheel back on and go get what you need. In the D1 it's the same size on the rotor as well check that it's the same so you don't have to make 2 trips.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Cheers Jim
The way I'm going with bolts not undoing, I'll skip the brake bleed untill end of term. I'll have 2 weeks to work on the car and no need to drive it to work. As for bleeding the brakes, I'm thinking the bleed nipple will shear off. At least with the caliper bolt I have a bolt easy out to use. These esyish jobs are becoming very painful. I expected to have the rotors and pads replaced this morning.
Aaaargh!!
Which caliper bolts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Remember don't confuse caliper bolts(the smaller bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier) with the carrier bolts(the two larger 17-19mm 12 points) that bolt to the axle.
The caliper bolts(small ones) need grease if it's dry in there.
I can't remember brothers TD5 being hard, but my part D2 was a right PITA. I have a 600 mm breaker bar, and partly the problem is the lack of of room to swing it in the wheel arch.
Got there in the end, but they needed a ton of pull upwards on the drivers side. A bit easier on the passengers side being a downward movement.