Reply With QuoteJohn, I'll stick with sensible upgrades such as the aforementioned driveshaft. I'll leave the LSs to the 4" lift, penis waving brigade. I prefer to enhance my car, not devalue it.
LordRover
SubscriberPerhaps outside of the budget, but Les Richmond here in Vic will 'turn' the diff so that the shaft does not need the DC joint. It's what LR should have done with the D2, just like Toyota should have done with the rear track of the 7# series V8s.
Of course, it's probably more than the car is worth, but if you intend to keep it, how many good shafts add up to the cost?
Of course, you could give him about 40/45K and get it done, with an LS3 thrown in... Well, your sig IS V8Ian...
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Super Moderator
John, I'll stick with sensible upgrades such as the aforementioned driveshaft. I'll leave the LSs to the 4" lift, penis waving brigade. I prefer to enhance my car, not devalue it.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Wizard
SubscriberMy front DC joint began failing this time last year. Started with a slight vibration that got progressively worse.
I took it to Driveline Services for a quote and they told me that there was nothing wrong with it! I'd used them to do a uni and balance a shaft for me in the past and was not impressed with their work so probably shouldn't have gone back.
Ended up going to Hardy Spicer in Darra. They took one look at it and could immediately see that is was shot. They did an upgrade to a much bigger unit. I can't remember the cost but it was $500ish. I'd definitely recommend them over Driveline Services.
IMG_3633.jpgIMG_3634.jpgIMG_3635.jpg
-- Paul --
| '99 Discovery Td5 5spd man with a td5inside remap | doesn't know what it is in for ...
| '94 Discovery Tdi 5spd man | going ... GONE
Moderator
HS in Australia generally use a Japanese (Toyota spec) DC coupling and unis, nice and beefy.
Swaggie
Now that looks the ducks gutsOriginally Posted by awabbit6
Greasable with out removing even better
Super Moderator
What are the correct grade of bolts, to hold the shaft in?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Swaggie
Pretty sure 8.8 with a scabby nyloc
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Super Moderator
Slunnie, 8.8 would be more than adequate in tensile but may be too brittle in sheer.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
TopicToaster
SupporterDon't know if you've been under and wielded spanners yet.
But! ..@ transfer case end bolts are not removable unless you remove the output flange. Only the nuts are removable, and a bit of a PITA to get a good grip onto. So just be mindful of rounding them.(ie. have new nuts ready for refitting).
Diff end is all easy tho.
I ended up at a nut and bolt place and got nuts with slightly longer head, so that when re fitting the spanner had more bite on the nut.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Moderator
Naa, they'll cope with shear loading ok, 8.8 are roughly equal to Grade 5 SAE, which isn't that high tensile.
We used to use 12.9 socket head cap screws on race car CV's.
Are they metric on the D2 or 3/8" UNF like the RRC/D1/Deefer?
I used K Nuts on the Defender, the reduced hex size made access so much easier, and they don't come loose like some nylocs do as they are unaffected by temp.
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