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Thread: Front drive shaft.

  1. #1
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    Front drive shaft.

    Just discovered that my front U/J on the D/C joint is cactus. The car has stock suspension, with no likelihood of a lift being fitted.
    What is my best avenue of rectification? Replace the U/Js with like, replace the entire shaft with like or upgrade to a better (Tom Wood?) specced shaft?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  2. #2
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    I just replaced mine (due to a suspicious squeaking noise) with a John Woods unit. Swapped in with no issues and going well. Turns out though that the squeak was not the prop shaft so I guess I’ve just done some “preventative maintenance”. There was some movement in a UJ of the old unit so it probably needed some attention at some point. Depending on your needs, I still have that unit. Was going to put in some replacement ujs and sell once rebalanced but if you want it I’m happy for you to come and check it and we can work out a fair price. I’m Brisbane north west side.

  3. #3
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    Where did you source the new shaft and how much did it cost?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  4. #4
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    Rebuilding the stock shaft is the cheapest solution Ian if the splines and and DC yokes are ok.
    Notice I didn't say easiest, I always find unis a bit of a fiddle, probably as I'm only doing them once every ten years.

    If going that way make sure to use GKN/Hardy Spicer/Land Rover heavy duty unis , not standard 1300-Series unis
    The trunnion on the HD uni is 1310 Series size, and you should be able to get a centering bearing rebuild kit too, and use a really good marine/water resistant HD grease.

  5. #5
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    Jeep Konnection in Melbourne for a TW shaft.
    Apparently just as easy as dealing with Tom direct and they have them on the shelf

  6. #6
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    I'm not sure about now becaue I havent broken a TW for a long time, but it used to be cheaper also for the TW compared to a lot of standard replacements. I think a rebuild on that shaft would be the easiest and cheapest bet though.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #7
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    I have no issue paying $700 for the TW unit if it's longer lasting and more reliable, I just don't want to waste money.
    Rick, I have every intention of using the Cat grease that you recently recommended.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  8. #8
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    Took about 1-2hrs(with typical backyarders smoko breaks) to do all three unis and the DC bearing on brother's D2.

    Hard part was only the effort to get the centre bearing cup out.
    I read some come out easily.
    I 'chiselled' out the one I did. cheapo wood chisel that was sacrificed for the job. Still usable tho for odd type jobs but it's bent.

    Never done a DC type joint before, and then the semi awkward bit of lining everything up to get it together again.

    I'd say tho if you do do it yourself, do all the bits at the same time. For the additional cost, it negates the situation where you have more issues down the road.

    Most annoying part of the entire job tho is to get the hard to source centre bearing. Something that should be easily got is made hard due to LR greed!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #9
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    If I go down the rebuilding path, I'll fully recon it, I hate going back to a job.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  10. #10
    david7307 Guest
    before you go buying any thing price bits direct from Harvey Spicer i got mine direct and saved quite a bit ,

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