Thread: how to test harmonic balancer

have you checked to see if your chassis vibration damper is still attached and not fallen off and lost

You don't specify why you think it's engine related.
Does it X000 RPM only, ie. eg. any gear at 2K RPM, or is it speed related?

Auto or manual?
If auto, do you know the history of the box and torque converter?

Brother was chasing vibes at about 80-ish k/h for a long while.
We checked front drive shaft(rebuilt) and also replaced with a known good one.
No difference(only very slightly better), but vibes still there.
rear donut was perfect, but replaced with a known good one too, no difference.
rear uni was also tight as, then greased.

Front drive flange on transfer box had about 5mm of play, fixed .. still vibed.

Then torque converter started to slip easily after lockup.
It would lockup at the right speed, but any attempt to accelerate over 80k/h would see it slip, and lock up only if throttle was light, or just on the over run.

Did a stall test, which confirmed torque converter knackered!

TC replaced(rebuilt actually) vibes all gone, smooth as silk now

The vibration is through the chassis, body, steering wheel it resonates throughout and comes in at the usual 2k ish rpm. It is noticeable when revving stationary or under load pulling away and seems to be more noticeable in the colder months as if vibration is easily transferred through stiffer engine mounts until warmed up.

Auto trans is perfect the vehicle has only done 130k and all else is good. I did change the engine mounts and asked for genuine ones but i guess its possible that they might not be.

Can the harmonic balancer be knackered without being loose or knocking.

I will check the dampener on the transfer box and diff is there another

thx

*As you have said you replaced the engine mounts with Genuine, then thats the main one (it was my first thought).
*Re harmonic balancer:
*As it wears out, when you turn the engine off you hear a last minute squeak.
*Visually look under engine at the back of harmonic balancer and look at the rubber ring, if its cracked or bits missing its no good.
*front fan cowling off, grab serpentine belt, move it left and right, look at harmonic balancer, a lot of movement, its no good. (obviously all done with engine OFF).

*If you search there are quite a few threads on the subject, some of the items in the list include:
*Engine accoustic cover is loose.
*Flexi joint on exhaust is loose internally, put a large hose clamp around it to crush it slightly.
*Exhaust section lower is touching either the chassis or engine sump (there really isnt much room between the two).
*turbo pipe out from turbo to intercooler is touching side trim/plastic.
*transfer case harmonic weight on the back is loose.
*handbrake drum assembly is loose.
*Exhaust last section is touching rear top suspension above the diff.
*Exhaust at the end is touching the body.
*Exhaust touching because its had a slight rear ender and is bent.
*Exhaust touching because figure 8 mounts are knackered.
*Exhaust manifold is leaking (when its really bad you hear a squeal when cold)
*Exhaust / turbo heat shield is touching back of engine/bellhousing.
*Front prop shaft is about knackered.
*Rear prop shaft rubber coupling is worn (if its cracked, dont think its good).
*Front fan support bearing is failing.

Thank you Dazza

That looks like a good list to work from...cheers.

Will report back when I get a chance to get under it

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*As you have said you replaced the engine mounts with Genuine, then thats the main one (it was my first thought).
*Re harmonic balancer:
*As it wears out, when you turn the engine off you hear a last minute squeak.
*Visually look under engine at the back of harmonic balancer and look at the rubber ring, if its cracked or bits missing its no good.
*front fan cowling off, grab serpentine belt, move it left and right, look at harmonic balancer, a lot of movement, its no good. (obviously all done with engine OFF).

*If you search there are quite a few threads on the subject, some of the items in the list include:
*Engine accoustic cover is loose.
*Flexi joint on exhaust is loose internally, put a large hose clamp around it to crush it slightly.
*Exhaust section lower is touching either the chassis or engine sump (there really isnt much room between the two).
*turbo pipe out from turbo to intercooler is touching side trim/plastic.
*transfer case harmonic weight on the back is loose.
*handbrake drum assembly is loose.
*Exhaust last section is touching rear top suspension above the diff.
*Exhaust at the end is touching the body.
*Exhaust touching because its had a slight rear ender and is bent.
*Exhaust touching because figure 8 mounts are knackered.
*Exhaust manifold is leaking (when its really bad you hear a squeal when cold)
*Exhaust / turbo heat shield is touching back of engine/bellhousing.
*Front prop shaft is about knackered.
*Rear prop shaft rubber coupling is worn (if its cracked, dont think its good).
*Front fan support bearing is failing.

Gees Dazza!!!

If it smells like and looks like and reads like!

its needs to TGO!!!

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*As you have said you replaced the engine mounts with Genuine, then thats the main one (it was my first thought).
*Re harmonic balancer:
*As it wears out, when you turn the engine off you hear a last minute squeak.
*Visually look under engine at the back of harmonic balancer and look at the rubber ring, if its cracked or bits missing its no good.
*front fan cowling off, grab serpentine belt, move it left and right, look at harmonic balancer, a lot of movement, its no good. (obviously all done with engine OFF).

*If you search there are quite a few threads on the subject, some of the items in the list include:
*Engine accoustic cover is loose.
*Flexi joint on exhaust is loose internally, put a large hose clamp around it to crush it slightly.
*Exhaust section lower is touching either the chassis or engine sump (there really isnt much room between the two).
*turbo pipe out from turbo to intercooler is touching side trim/plastic.
*transfer case harmonic weight on the back is loose.
*handbrake drum assembly is loose.
*Exhaust last section is touching rear top suspension above the diff.
*Exhaust at the end is touching the body.
*Exhaust touching because its had a slight rear ender and is bent.
*Exhaust touching because figure 8 mounts are knackered.
*Exhaust manifold is leaking (when its really bad you hear a squeal when cold)
*Exhaust / turbo heat shield is touching back of engine/bellhousing.
*Front prop shaft is about knackered.
*Rear prop shaft rubber coupling is worn (if its cracked, dont think its good).
*Front fan support bearing is failing.

Hello
I have similar issue, my vibration comes between 2800-3200rpm in each gear (but not all the times).
No vibration when the car is in neutral and standing. I guess it should be in connection with handbrake as when I put my hand on the brake lever the vibration gets less. But what I do not understand is that the handbrake turns with different speed in each gear and the vibration comes every time around the same engine rpm?
Also interesting that it never starts while the car is running (if I start my trip without vibration it will not come) but when I stop and apply handbrake and after I restart it could come (not evrey time) and will not stop until the next stop. This is why I think it is handbrake but I do not understand the relation between fixed engine rpm and different drum speed....

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

Thank you Dazza

That looks like a good list to work from...cheers.

Will report back when I get a chance to get under it

As well as Dazza's comprehensive list
Also check it's not the handbrake shoes / backing plate ( check by putting gentle pressure on the hand brake while the vibration is evident) the shoes can wear out the backing plate causing vibration usually around 2000-2300 rpm but can be higher