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Thread: Steering knuckle seperation - breaking the ball joints bond

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    I still haven't managed to seperate them. Can't get the ball joint fork in far enough as the tips hit somewhere at every angle. Have a hydraulic puller here but just can't get it straight on on the lower ball joint and front is inaccessible with it.

    Anyone able to advise if this 32mm hex on the bottom of the steering knuckle (which the lower ball joint shaft goes through and nut tightens against) is part of the steering knuckle or undoes? I haven't been able to undo it and it looks like it's all one piece with the knuckle, so assuming it's part of the knuckle.

    Attachment 146052Attachment 146053
    That hex bush or tension bush is its proper name unscrews, it’s not necessary to remove it to do the balljoints.
    You will be lucky to unscrew it as you still have to crack the taper and they are bloody tight, I have undone mine but I have a 3/4 inch rattle gun makes light work of it, they do need adjusting up to the new Bj.s when it’s all back together.
    There is not a lot written about the bushes it seem most just leave them alone when doing joints.
    To get the tapers cracked I use 2 hammers using one as a dolly behind the boss of the swivel housing surrounding the tapers then flog the crap out of the opposite side till they pop.
    Although I have to say these housings aren’t the easiest to get a hammer into.
    Crack the top taper first then use your jack under the bottom and give it some with the hammers.

  2. #12
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    Just finished doing the ball joints on the wife's D2 yesterday. Definitely not the easiest ball joints I've done over the years, and likely the hardest.
    25mm pickle fork, a couple of cycles of heat on the threaded end of the balljoint, old aircraft rivet gun (pneumatic hammer) was what it took to get one of the lowers separated on mine.
    Removing the balljoints themselves wasn't easy either. A big-ass C-clamp tool Like THIS, some heat, socket and long bar and a lump hammer.
    Remove the upper one first.

    Fit the lower one first, then the upper.
    Lower was freezer, heat, big-ass C clamp thingy and hammer.
    Upper went in with just a hammer after being in the freezer overnight and about 100deg heat on the housing.

    I also used a bit of nickel anti-sieze when fitting them as the last thing I wanted was the stuck half way in situation.
    Damn glad its over.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #13
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    You blokes aren't using big enough hammers...
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    You blokes aren't using big enough hammers...
    Absolutely. I've put in a request to the financial controller.
    .......for a hoist so I've got room to swing a bigger hammer

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #15
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    Thanks all for the advise and guidance. Managed to break the taper by swinging a 4.5kg sledge hammer to hit two 4lb mallets that were held on either side of the taper by a second person like anvils. Took a few swings but all four eventually gave in.

    IMG_4559.jpg

    I then used my Powerbuilt press kit to remove and fit the ball joints. Ideally a larger C part of the clamp would have made it easier. Pushing the old ball joints out was the easy part. New ones in are made difficulty by some of the odd shape of the end of the axels tubes/diff assembly. A few pics for my own future reference if I ever need to do it again (I took these when I did the first side to save time scratching through and measuring the various spacers for the second time - they're in order of the setups for removing lower, removing upper, fitting upper, fitting lower):

    IMG_0882.jpgIMG_4653.jpgIMG_1560.jpgIMG_9712.jpgIMG_6709.jpg

  6. #16
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    See....a bigger hammer is all that is required 😎😎😎😄😄😄
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #17
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    There used to be a clip by 'Swearing and skinned knuckles' on Youtube specifically for the D2.

    Can't find the clip anymore. Bit of a shame as it did a step by step walk through of the whole job from start to finish.

    Cheers,

    Jason

  8. #18
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason789 View Post
    There used to be a clip by 'Swearing and skinned knuckles' on Youtube specifically for the D2.

    Can't find the clip anymore. Bit of a shame as it did a step by step walk through of the whole job from start to finish.

    Cheers,

    Jason
    google is your friend Jason
    Swearing and Skinned Knuckles Episode #3: Land Rover Discovery Ball Joint Replacement Part 1 - video dailymotion


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